Another problem with my FL2.
The engine keeps cutting out. It will start from cold. run for a few revs and then cut out. After a number of attempts at starting, it will run normally.
There is no warning as to when it is about to cut out it just stops. There is then displayed on the dash ( Reduced Engine Performance ).
It has happened four times and on one occasion a car following just managed to stop in time.
It has been at the dealership for a week now and they cannot locate the problem. They know there is a problem because it has done it on their test drive.
The on board computer is not recording any fault codes.
Can any of you guys shine a light on this.
Regards Paul.

Sticking or dirty EGR valve could cause a similar thing?
I had a sticking one and it was like someone momentarily switching off the engine then it would pick up again and carry on as normal.

Trouble is these days they cant seem to do anything if the computer says its ok even if its obviously not.

Thanks Landiroamer.
I'am going to the dealer tomorrow. I will mention that.
You are right they are stumped without the computer telling them what to do.
We can't drive it until the fault is rectified it's just to dangerous
Regards Paul.

Hi please put up what the outcome is with this as we have been having the same issue with the wife's car, and ours has been in garbage for 2 weeks and still no go on it, thanks

Hi John Ler
It dose not look good. It's been at the dealer for a week now and they cannot find the problem. They have indicated they probably will not be able to trace the fault.
They are completely stumped. They think there are two problems combining at the same time.
It looks like I am going to get rid of it. It's only done 39000mls.
Landiroamer I did mention the ERG to the service manger, he did not think that was the cause but would check.
Regards Paul.

Not very good these days is it, the car says its ok, the garage dont know how to find out if it is, and then you have to get rid of the car because they cant fix it seems a bit ridiculous?
That means either someone else buys a car with the fault, or they do know how to fix it for 25p once theyve had the car off you and can sell it on making a bomb.

Bit like that bloke on Wheeler Dealers when he got that Porsche, main dealer couldnt find the fault so the owner flogged it cheap, then Ed replaced a self tapping screw and it was fixed for tuppence and they make a killing.

Surely if a MAIN DEALER cannot find a fault, it needs to be passed up thre LR Technical chain until they find the issue..

I understand if the fault was intermittent and the dealer never saw it, but they have seen it first hand..

I worked for Scania truck main dealer for over 10 years, if we had a similar issue where we couldnt find the fault the we would call Scania Technical who would come from Scania GB to help trace the fault. they should know exactly how every system works as they built the bloody thing, Land Rover, who designed and built every last thing should not be stumped.

If they cant find the fault then how do they expect anyone else to? i.e and independant?

I would suggest maybe seeing another dealer or contacting LR customer services.. its complete crap if they cant find the fault..

Also selling it will just be passing the problem onto someone else, which means you would be selling a potentially dangeous car, you would have to tell them which means you could face losing alot of money.. when in reality there is probably a loose connector, faulty sensor or faulty ECU..

Dont let them take you for a ride. they are supposed to be the professionals, they should be able to find it, or start replacing things at their cost until its rectified..

Sorry to rant, but they really should know their stuff, otherwise how are they different from a back street garage? gets on my tits MY2011 Freelander 2 GS Santorini Black
MY2004 Freelander 1 Sport Java Black
MY1986 Defender 90 Stornoway Grey - Fully Rebuilt this Year

+1

The problem is now, as has been said on many a thread here and on other forums, that the main dealer mechanics are nothing of the sort. Sure, they can change brakes, oil, filters, etc. but they are not mechanics by any stretch (some are good but not many)

A friend of mine works for a local main dealer, and although he is a qualified 'mechanic' he even calls himself a technician. He is the main guy for plugging in the diagnostic tool and one of the MOT testers there. He hates getting his hands dirty.

If it doesn't show up on the diagnostic tool, or isn't an obvious mechanical failure, then they are screwed.

I recently had an issue with my Insignia, internet search showed it likely to be the turbo boost solenoid sticking. Booked it into Vauxhall, told them my thoughts, and 20 mins later got told 'sorry sir, your turbo needs replacing. (under warranty thankfully)
2 days later im back at the dealers telling them it happened again. This week they changed the turbo boost solenoid and now the car is unbelievably responsive so guessing it has been sticking since I got it in July.

it is very rare to find a main dealer with good, proper, mechanics. They tend to be at the independants so if you find a good indy, stick with him. I do!

to the OP, as Browny has said, it is not right to be fobbed off by a main dealer, they should be contacting the manufacturer support who should assist in sorting it. No need to sell the car just because the garage is useless and cant fault find.

I totally agree with all the comments posted.
The dealers, ( I never thought I would bring myself to say this ) appear to be doing their best to trace the fault.
They are road testing it every day.
They contacted L R customer service but to avail. Nothing on the computer then theirs nothing wrong it. Its six years old no warranty tough.
I would not sell it without pointing out the faults but I think it's time to go. It's not been the most reliable vehicle to put it mildly.
Some of the problems, not all.
New torque convertor, bad intermittent vibration, two starter motors, crank seal replaced, throttle body failed, broken down and been stranded twice due to steering lock/electrics, door locks failed, now this problem and for good measure they tell me the heldex is on the way out.
Toyota anyone. Regards Paul

Have exactly the same problem in my FL2 2009 HSE. Brought to the dealer to no avail...everything is fine and they couldnt reproduce the issue. Intermittent problems are the most difficult to trace.
Anyone to help?

Merry Christmas lads,
After a long chat with the service manager at the dealership I have made the decision to get rid of it. The service manager said, on the day I took it in, he had many attempts to get the thing from their car park to the workshop so he knows there is a problem.
The only solution would be to start striping it down until they could the find fault. Cost wise who knows?
Enough is enough.
So yesterday I P/X it for a Land Cruiser, which I must admit does not drive as well as the FL2. ( when it's working ).
I was honest with the sale's man and gave him the full history of its problems. He said it matters little we just put it to auction.
Anyone thinking of buying a 2009 HSE 40.000mls that looks immaculate PM me and I'll give them the reg. number.
Regards Paul.

I'm stating the obvious, but did the dealer change the fuel filter? I had some issues a while ago with my wifes landy. Car went into limp mode (on & off), also cut out a few times. I changed the fuel filter twice over 2 weeks, due to a bad batch of supermarket fuel. 4 years later, never had the same issue again. Landy has now gone.

Hi Boroboy,
The dealers were pretty sure it is an electrical fault. I had it back from them for a couple of days and it ran fine. In fact very well indeed. I have always used Shell Nitro from the same filling station.
When driving the engine would cut off suddenly with no warning at all.
When looking at the FL2 reviews it comes up with a very poor electrical rating and my vehicle justifies that.
I was chatting to a chap recently who has two, three year's old Discovery's and they are a nightmare.
You pay your money and take your choice. For me it has been a very expensive lesson.
Best regards Paul

As,I posted earlier, I was having same problems, this is the outcome on my problem and just a copy and paste from my last post on my problem, it may be the same and help others out reading your post


(Final update on my problem

I was told my oil cooler needed replacing, so I've had the old one pressure tested and it turns out there was nothing wrong with it, no leak nothing, and I've now sold it on to get some money back, the guys told me his car is running fine with it fitted and boosting great, ( he says he's happy as a pig in shi7) so that was a waist of time fitting a new one, also, the old fuel filter has been tested by a customer of mine who works for York university . He took the old filter and cut the bowl off the housing and did a fluid pressure test and confirmed that he couldn't raise enough pressure through the filter to keep a car running, he said it was so dirty you couldn't force air through it until he cleaned it, so I'm 110% sure this was my problem all along, and the garage I took it to didn't have a clue what they where doing and if they had fitted the fuel filter when I had asked them , we both would have been happy,

So if you get any problems guys like mine try the fuel filter first, for £35 it's got to be one of the cheapest options and sorted our problem out, I'm sure )


Hope this helps others out, the fuel filter,caused me the same problems as you , hope,you don't think I'm jumping on your thread, just trying to help,,the worst thing is when people don't put the final outcome on the problem sorted,