She's got a 2004 Renault Clio 1.1. You've probably seen it, its been modified with designer dents all over it.

Anyway the latest tale of woe is that it isn't starting. She is getting a rapid clicking sound when you turn the ignition key. The car will start when bumped or jumped. Originally I thought it might be battery related as the speedo trip counter resets and the central locking stops but I put a volt meter on it and it is showing around 10v (is that enough?). I sprayed a load of engine cold start stuff thinking it might be damp issues but to no avail.

So I (Mr not too car savvy) am suspecting the starter motor is the culprit. Or could it be the battery.

Sounds like the starter motor to me. Have you tried starting using jump leads? That would certainly confirm it as the starter if it still doesn't crank. Voltage is not high at only 10v but it is possible for the starter to drag it down to that if the starter is kaput. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Jump leads work first time Badger

All those symptoms point to a flat battery.

Battery screwed then..lol (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Battery knackered............you should see 12v and once started you should get 14v on the volt meter across the battery this will show the alternator is working and sending a charge to thd battery.. 2011 SD4 XS

It's the Battery.. 10V is nowhere near enough.. it should be AT LEAST over 12V.. closer to 13V really and while running it should be close to 14V..

So its either the battery and/ or the alternator.. jump start it, check how many Volts are across the terminals, if its 12.5-14V ish then the alternator is probably ok, If its down near the 10V region then its probably the alternator,

if all is well when running then turn off the engine (and mane sure everything else is off, lights etc) and hold your multi meter across the terminals, if when you turn off the engine, the batter drops to less thasn 12V either straight away of over the course of a few minutes then its looking like your battery..

or... Start it and get yourself to halfords, they will do a digital battery and charging check.. I dont kbnow how much they charge for it, but its only a few quid, obviously they will offer you one of their shiny new batteries.. but maybe better getting one off the net if you can wait a couple of days.

I used these guys for a battery for my defender, only took a day to arrive and the website has lots of useful info.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/Car-Batteries-C48.html

Tip... if you go to Halfrauds then let them quote you for a battery and get the battery type and number... then this website has a halfrauds cross reference section.. will help you find the right battery for you.. providing HF give you the right number ofcourse..

Good Luck..

Get in touch if you need any infor on how to test the battery etc.. MY2011 Freelander 2 GS Santorini Black
MY2004 Freelander 1 Sport Java Black
MY1986 Defender 90 Stornoway Grey - Fully Rebuilt this Year

Cheers all. Will give that a test tonight.

'Interestingly' she went to Halfords when it first went wrong on Saturday. They 'tested' the battery and said it was ok (9.6V ok!!!) and then she said they tested the alternator and said that was ok. So they deduced it must be the starter motor. To which they jump started it to get her going

you could do a recondition charge if you have a smart charger to get some life in to the battery

but most likely easier to buy a new one Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Halfords should have said Your batteries gone flat luv, to which she would have replied, Well what shape should it be then?

Nahhh - she rang dad instead. And dad was too busy watching a rare occurance - Leeds were 2-1 up against Hull and I was stood in the kop watching it! She cut short my after match celebratary drink!

Took your advice and ran a meter on it. 10v idle, jump started first time (off my FL of course) and it flew up to 14v.

I shall be off for a new battery (and not Halfrauds either)

Many thanks to everyone for their help

Euro car parts are a good bet for a deal on a new battery... 2011 SD4 XS

Ordered one off Euro Parts. Dispatched straight away for next day delivery via DHL.

Never arrived!!!

looked at tracking history:

7 Shipment on hold LEEDS - UK 20:37 1 Pieces
6 Departed Facility in EAST MIDLANDS - UK EAST MIDLANDS - UK 15:40 1 Pieces
5 With delivery courier LEEDS - UK 12:27 1 Pieces
4 Arrived at Sort Facility EAST MIDLANDS - UK EAST MIDLANDS - UK 00:00 1 Pieces
3 Departed Facility in LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 21:48 1 Pieces
2 Processed at LONDON-HEATHROW - UK LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 21:45 1 Pieces
1 Shipment picked up LONDON-HEATHROW - UK 10:47

Rang DHL up. Out for delivery. Not according to your tracking system it aint mate.

Grrrrrr

Quote:

I used these guys for a battery for my defender, only took a day to arrive and the website has lots of useful info.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/Car-Batteries-C48.html

Cheers browny. I looked at them first but it worked out about a fiver dearer and seeing as it would appear I am paying for it I went for the cheapest option.

It's not Euro Cars fault to be honest but its frustrating 'cos if I hadn't been so lazy I could have trecked over to the other side of Leeds in rush hour and got one from their shop. Grrrrrrrrr