Clutch pedal has been a bit notchy for a few months, thought nowt of it guessed just a bit of wear in the pivot / bearing. Anyways cluch pedal just hit the floor tonight . Managed to start it in gear and drive it home by pumping the pedal and lifting off the floor.

Tried to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder and can get hardly any pressure and then lose it and get nothing. Guess the clutch master cylinder has gone. I hope so as replacing the slave is gonna be a lot more difficult and expensive. If it was the slave, I would guess, I good have bled some pressure into it, but am getting hardly any fluid out of the bleed nipple.

Has anybody done this job? Do you pull it out from inside the vehicle and any little hints tips on removal? I can see its a quick release fitting on the feed to the slave and hope it has enough play to pull in and be released. No way I could get my hand down between the reservoir and the bulkhead.

Had similar happened to my Rover 75 including bleeding it.
Turned out to be the slave cylinder which was mounted inside the bell housing  Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Thanks for the reply. Did you suffer same problem bleeding it? Is it dumping fluid inside the bellhousing then? Must admit i feel like i put more brake fluid in, than i got out !!!

Got the LR manual, all 3229 pages of it. Trawled through to page 1415 and found an answer, have to remove a central panel in the engine bay to access QR clips before removing the pedal and MC from inside.

Not sure what to do now, lot of work replacing MC if it is the slave and the box has to come out anyways !!!!

Yes, bleeding it did nothing but it did not dump fluid inside the bell housing. The slave cylinder didn't leak much. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

i would say if its the slave cylinder then replace the whole lot, clutch, DMF, slave all in one. they all have to come out anyway.
Slave cylinder on mine popped its seals, with no noticeable difference in clutch and over time the oil contaminated the DMF and wrecked it. £700 quid later on the job lot and £300 on a waste of time warranty it was sorted.

Same thing happened on my car when the DMF gave up. The AA couldn't get it working by the normal bleed method so back bled the system by injecting fluid at the slave bleed point with a syringe. Mine, Saab convertible
Hers, MY08 GS auto

Definitely slave cylinder 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

I have just replaced the master cylinder as I thought it was faulty. I thought it was the slave but I had replaced that but still couldn't get a pedal and assumed it was the master at fault. I personally dont think the master has enough vacuum to bleed itself and the only way i could get pressure was to reverse bleed it from the slave until fluid in the brake reservoir started to rise. I used a medical syringe connected to the slave bleed nipple via a small piece of tubing. It is open circuit back to the reservoir with the pedal in the up position and slave cylinder bleed nipple unscrewed a couple of turns.

Removing the master was a pain. It comes out from the inside. First release the two connections under the wiper blade scuttle in engine bay. One pipe goes to slave and one to brake reservoir. Both easily disconnected. the tricky bit is the three 13mm nuts that hold the pedal to the bulkhead inside the drivers footwell. Follow the haynes manual and remove the lower airbag, pinch bolt on steering column and black air vent. Remove both switches attached to pedal box. You should then be able to see all three bolts. The bottom one is easy but the two at the top require a long extension with a uj, use 3/8" drive and a deep socket won't fit. I managed it after plenty of attempts. The pedal box WILL then rotate out from under the confined space. It only just comes out but it does. It's like one of those Christmas cracker presents separating two pieces of metal!! it only comes apart one way and nobody could ever describe it to you. Once out you can then remove master from pedal box, 1/4 turn anticlockwise, and replace. The white plastic pin mentioned in earlier posts, is easily removed on the bench with pliers. Then loose some more skin trying to put it back in. Reverse bleed again from slave was the only way I got it to work.

Hiya!
I am doing the same job. Taken hours tio get to even see where the pipes, nuts,bolts etc are. Now at the removal stage. tried it with pedal up, pedal down & i am sure the damned thing is just laughing at me!
You sure it comes out?

It did in the end, would rather take the engine out than do it again though!

Just got it out.
Think its one of those jobs that you start & finish on the same day. At least you got a chance of remembering which way it came out. Would hate to take it out, have a beer followed by a snooze then try to put it back the next morning!

Oooh well done. if you have trouble bleeding it then don't forget to reverse bleed from the slave using a medical syringe. seems to be the preferred option to get it bleed,

let you in to a sneaky trick to reverse bleed...

If the fluid reservoir serves both the clutch & the brakes, put a tube between the nearest brake nipple & the clutch. Pump the brake & it will send fluid out of the brake & along the tube to the clutch, then back to the reservoir. Fluid will go round all day if you like. Also means you dont spill fluid everywhere.

Works a treat!

Hi,
I think Imay have the same problem, clutch pedal to the floor and clutch doesn't disengage. No visible leaks.
Managed to get back home but now is stuck in my driveway.
Is there any way to discriminate master/slave failure?
THink is still a better option to change the master as the slave pump job costs ten times.

Thanks for the aswers.
ciao

Replacing a faulty master cylinder, how feed line is supposed to be detached from cylinder? Is there any locking mechanism or just need enough force to loose it?