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Dartman the one Member Since: 04 Apr 2013 Location: Seville, Spain Posts: 1692 |
The amount of hardener used is very small, the resin is fairly thin (do not confuse styrene resin with gelcoat which is thicker) you only need 3 or 4 drops per 7oz cup, increasing hardener reduces curing time and a slightly weaker and less flexible joint, the higher the temperature also decreases curing time, at this time of year do your injecting and clamping a shed or garage then take into the warm about 20-22 deg. I would suggest your problem is caused by the resin being semi cured when the 2 halves of the board were joined in the mould, not unusual if made by hand in a hot country. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis 2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever. |
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13th Oct 2015 10:55 am |
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Jimski Member Since: 21 Jan 2013 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 649 |
Win win win win win all round then!! By the time you've done all this research and bought the right stuff (plus free Sugru) you could buy damaged ones and sell them on haha 2013 FL2 - Black Edition Auto
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13th Oct 2015 1:07 pm |
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npinks Member Since: 28 Jun 2007 Location: Ls25 Posts: 20092 |
It could be my new past time, though I think i might need to move to were the weathers better and open "Nick's Stic'em back together shop" sponsored by Jimski's segru Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis |
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13th Oct 2015 1:29 pm |
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Dartman the one Member Since: 04 Apr 2013 Location: Seville, Spain Posts: 1692 |
GRP resin is almost clear, depending on the make, some have have a slight shading, of brown or very light purple, if you can clamp it together well it won't show. There are some excellent flake effect pigments to add to gelcoat so as produce a stipe on the join to disguise it. Should you wish to get more information you can PM me, fibre glass is a bit like plasticine the way you can play with it, all cut and shunt without seeing joins. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
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13th Oct 2015 2:05 pm |
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