Is it possible to remove the front grille on a 2010 shape freelander 2 for spraying? Thinking of spraying it matt black with plastidip to see what it would look like before permanent spraying. It would make life a lot easier if I could remove it instead of covering the back, masking off etc. cheers!

See other posts via the 'search' feature re: plastidip Foraging near Gaydon....
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MY13 HSE Lux SD4, Baltic Blue - current, 30,000> miles without fault
MY12 HSE 2.2 SD4, Sumatra Black - gone after 10 months/43,000 fault-free miles

I've seen some posts of people having sprayed the grille but can't find anywhere if you're able to fully remove just the grille from the bumper on a 2010 model, pretty sure you can on the latest models.

To remove the grill, you need to remove the bumper.
BUT it's not an easy job as the footprint of grill is huge and plastic welded to the bumper.
Check it out on the one for sale here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-freel...3cf5d2a8f2
Your best bet is to get it sprayed in situ ..... will be far easier .... got mine painted in situ.

But unless you're unsure about black, then I wouldn't do it in PlastiDip.
It''ll go grey over time and lose it's lustre.... and you'll have stone chips to attend to.
Best bet is to go for a gloss black paint spray with lacquer.
It'll be more durable and will be worth it in the long run.


An alternative is to buy a gloss black grill [if one came up] then go through the process of breaking the plastic welds and changing over.
I've got a second black grill just in case I decide I don't want my spotlights fittted [which ingress the grill], then I'd just swap it over. FL2 now gone and have a couple of items left for sale:-

Brodit active iPhone holder + Brodit dash clip,
Bluetooth Music Streaming Module.

Cheers ronp! Yeah I had an idea that it would be a bit of a fiddly job to remove. Think I'll go ahead and just do it in situ. Cheers for the reply bro!

Just one point, if youre spraying it in situe remember to mask off behind the grille before you paint, you dont want to give the radiators an insulating coat of paint too at the same time??

If you are spraying with 150 ml touch up cans (don't use 400 ml):

I use a truck load of spray cans for models. To get nice sharp edges with masking tape cut pieces or strips with very sharp scalpel blades. Don't just use the edge of the tape for your masking edge. Use 3M masking tape not a no name brand. When spraying, spray the difficult bits first when work back to the easy bits last, work out a procedure of which are the most difficult bits to do and follow your plan quickly finishing off with the easiest parts. Don't hesitate and muck about and stop the instant you have enough paint on, don't over do it. Leave the job for half an hour and have a coffee if you have to paint another coat. Practice on something else first. If you are using spray cans shake them for a full 2 minutes. Pre heat them so they are not cold, shaking the bottom 2/3 of the can in a bucket of hot water is the easiest. Don't spray on cold or hot days. Get a few extra cans as the nozzles do block and have them warm, tested and ready to go so if one blocks you can grab another one instantly. Be very patient once you have painted a coat. As already said: Leave it to dry for half an hour, go and have a coffee!!! The paint also needs a week to harden once the job is finished. Masking is a pain in the neck, I have spent 2 days masking for 10 minutes of painting, then an hour to remove the masking tape. Masking needs to be done properly. At a minimum use a 3M Organic Vap Dust/Mist Resp 9913V to save your lungs. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

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