Alex, I assume you mean, add a little more fluid with the engine either running or stopped but perform the actual level check while the engine is running (and at approx correct temp). Assuming the previous fluid add will cause a temporary overfill, remove the centre level plug (while engine is now running at idle) and allow excess fluid to run out and when this has stopped, replace level plug before stopping the engine.

Hi Portculislr,

Here's a link to my original post. The procedure I followed is described about halfway down the page.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic16636.html MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Portculislr, yes, you describe it more exactly. I'm not a native English speaker...

Alex, your English is more than good enough. Now that procedures have been more than covered by Members kind enough to submit helpful threads, based upon your own experience in this area, what period of running (ie kms driven) would you recommend between each of three 'dump and fill' procedures to allow each ATF renewal to settle down.

A few weeks since my last thread but have finally got around to the fluid change and the following was my experience -

I put the car up onto a set of ramps to get better access, I was not worried about working on a level car since I only intended to replace the exact amount removed at this stage of the ATF change. Removed level plug, about a cupful came out at this stage, then removed drain plug and caught the full drain into a stainless steel bowl (from my wifes kitchen). The amount drained at this stage was a shade under 3 ltrs, the colour of the drained fluid was dark reddish in colour and did not smell any different to the new fluid so assumed there was nothing adverse happening in the transmission. I weighed the drained content (and bowl) on the kitchen digital scales and allowing for the removal of the bowl weight replaced exactly the same amount as shown in gms on the scales with Mobil 3309 ATF. I will repeat the process again after a few miles of running and have ordered a new level plug and 'O' ring (£1.40) since the last one was damaged slightly when I used a poor torx socket removing it. The whole job was less than 30 mins.

Post deleted - off topic!

Word of warning
BEFORE you attempt to drain the oil REMOVE the FILLER plug

Sunday afternoon, get the transmission nice and warm, drive up on ramps, drop the sump guard, and remove the level plug.
You should get about 1400ml of oil. Remove the drain plug, and you should get another 1800ml of oil - or in my case black particle filled gunk. Now the car is high up so you will need a step, fit the T55 torx bit into the filler plug and shear it off
So the shops are all shut, you have a disabled Land Rover, and you daren't start it.
Rip out the air filter, long chisel and hammer and get going for an hour or two.

18 litres and 7 hours later the oil is now coming out the same colour as it goes in.
Only time will tell if the gearbox is now changing properly - the error message was "shift taking too long", so hopefully nice clean thin oil is the cure.
An no I can't blame LR, as I changed 3.2 litres 10,000 miles previously Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner