Hi Guys,
This is my first post so please excuse me if I get it wrong - Searched through the forums and whilst there are many similar issues to mine, cannot find the correct resolve.

Long Story short - Bought a 2007 Freelander 2 - TD4 (2.2 Duratorq motor by ford) from a friend who has had this issue for over 6 months now.
Cannot get the car started - apparently, battery was taken out to be recharged while keys were in ignition, put the battery back - now the car wont start at all - we assume it has something to do with the BCM or ECU and/or must be security related.
Symptoms.
1. If starter connected directly to battery, car will crank, if you add “Engine Start” the motor will start and run
2. Put Key into ignition (Keyless system. Engine Stop start button) - When pressing key, no matter how many times we unlock the car, the small security light keeps flashing at normal speed but never cranks the car.
3. We Get HDC Fault, Bonnet Open, Press Clutch when starting showing on the dash.
4. Car will not lock with the remote, no matter how many times you press or hold the lock button but the horn signals as normal as though the car is locked (when it isn't/none of the doors lock)
Possible Causes
- Somewhat clueless, but some research suggests something to do with the BCM module not giving correct or final authorisation to ECU to start the motor.
Any ideas/Comments or Suggestions are really appreciated - ive been towing this car around Johannesburg City and the costs are certainly no joke - ive been to a multitude of different Key-Coders and auto electricians but they too seem to be baffled - Have 2-3 week waiting period at dealership for booking (and want to avoid their enormous costs wherever possible)
Any ideas?

Regards,

Andrew

Quote:

Symptoms.
1. If starter connected directly to battery, car will crank, if you add “Engine Start” the motor will start and run

Quote:

2. Put Key into ignition (Keyless system. Engine Stop start button) - When pressing key, no matter how many times we unlock the car, the small security light keeps flashing at normal speed but never cranks the car.

Quote:

3. We Get HDC Fault, Bonnet Open, Press Clutch when starting showing on the dash.

Quote:

4. Car will not lock with the remote, no matter how many times you press or hold the lock button but the horn signals as normal as though the car is locked (when it isn't/none of the doors lock)

Quote:

Possible Causes
- Somewhat clueless, but some research suggests something to do with the BCM module not giving correct or final authorisation to ECU to start the motor.

Hi Pab!

Thank you so much for your reply - i have been cruising forums day and night for 2 weeks now. Just highlighting your below proposed points.

Quote:

By "Engine Start" do you mean pressing the Start button?

Quote:

The security light does keep flashing after the car is unlocked, and after the key is docked - this is normal. It doesn't stop flashing until the Start button is pressed.

Quote:

Getting this far suggests to me that the security check has been successfully passed. Ignoring the HDC fault for the moment this is basically reporting two things - that the bonnet is open and that the clutch is not pressed. Both could be significant - if the clutch is not fully pressed then the starter will not operate, which would seem to match your non-start symptoms. So the first thing to check is the clutch sensor - if this is not working properly and the clutch is not being detected as pressed then the car won't start. Secondly if the bonnet is open the car won't lock (see next point).

Quote:

The horn sounding when you lock the car isn't normal - it means that a door or the bonnet is not closed properly and in that case the car doesn't lock. The horn is telling you that it hasn't locked because something is open - the FL2 is silent when it locks properly, just flashing the indicator lights to confirn the lock. Given the bonnet message above that's the obvious place to start - again check that the bonnet is properly closed (both latches - one each side) and that the bonnet closed sensor is working.

Quote:

It sounds like something much simpler that that to me. The fact that the engine starts and runs if you hot-wire the statrer suggests to me that everything is basically working as it should, and the Press Clutch message suggests that is may simply be that the clutch isn't being detected as pressed

I believe that's a simple problem of authorization.
If the key docking/reading module is functioning properly, then:
1. You need to find someone with the dealer level of diagnostic tools. SDD program.
2. You need to update the CJB (Central Junction Box or BCM) to the latest level of firmware. The MY2007 have had some (youth) problems with the firmware.
3. You need to relearn/pair the existing keys to the car.

Thanks Alex, not sure where in the world you are - but here in South Africa, Land Rover plays themselves like GODS with the prices they charge hence avoiding them as far as i can - also, the earliest booking i can get is +2 weeks away. I will keep the forum updated as we go along. as per above from User PAB, i will try and have the current place that is looking at the car do the following first checks before moving on.

1. Clutch Sensor (Never been checked)
2. Neutral Sensor (Assuming the manual needs to be in neutral before starting.

I will ignore HDC System not available issue for now and try and have the guys pull some codes. Could you help me rule out some of the above mentioned items so i can tick off my list where possible?

The guy said his software couldnt "Communicate" with the car - now, i have literally no idea what this means, but because they dont charge if they cant find the fault - they are hesistant to give me any information at all...

If you could help me rule out some of the above would be great.

You have PM with some help...

Hi Guys, Some Updates.

Alex - Thank you so much for the info and PM - Appreciate this alot!

Just had an update from Direct Data - The guy has literally refused to work on the car and give me any information because "The car is in pieces, Go back to your forums and tell them that the car is in pieces so they know what condition the car is in, Nobody will work on a car like this!"

Found this quite hilarious - Yes, some of the trim was taken out to access the electronics (ECU, BCU, Steering Lock) - Trim being the Glove Compartment, panel below steering wheel to access Steering lock and the Drivers Airbag - In engine bay, Panel just below windscreen wipers removed for access to ecu, and cover panel for the engine itself. NONE of any of these items has ANY electronic components at ALL and are as such, unrelated - Says i should get a land rover expert to assemble everything before bringing the car back???

And this guys, is what we have to deal with in South Africa at our so called "Independent Experts"!!! Its like your local car wash saying - "I WILL NOT WASH YOUR CAR BECAUSE THE RADIO ISNT WORKING"

Anyhow - decided to tow the car off to Landy-Tech as they have the actual Landy Diagnostics machine.

Will keep updating as we go along - i have asked them to check obvious stuff as per above recommendations before proceeding with anything else with the hope that it might help get to a resolution faster.

Thanks alot for your guys input, i really appreciate this - Car is a gift for my dad who has just been diagnosed with cancer... so really doing all we can to get the car running at least, so that he can do all the other DIY stuff for himself

I was beginning to wonder what condition the car is in!

What else do we need to know? What has happened to it since it was last running? Have any electronic components been replaced/altered/reconfigured, etc?

If, as Alex suspects, there's an authorisation problem the question is why - simply disconnecting the battery to charge it wouldn't do that.

BTW, I believe only the clutch position is checked on start - the position of the gear selector should not matter.

Hi Guys,

So... apologies for the delays, ive had a recent job change for higher pay (yay me). Updates.

Car is now sitting for 6 weeks with a company called "Landy-Tech" out this end in Boksburg (South Johannesburg).

Eventually, they got back to me and suggested the car will not start because the ABS Pump and Modulator need to be replaced. and they cost R27 000 (Say USD approx $2000) for the abs pump and modulator Alone - before any labour is considered -this is rather ridiculous pricing.

Does this sound plausible to prevent the car from starting? i mean, it will not even crank or turn over at all with key docked in ignition???

RE your other questions, the car is in pretty good shape - body work is great, interior is clean, engine bay is fairly clean - just dusty from being parked above the starting issue, the sun roof doesnt work - all else is in pretty good condition / much of the interior trim was removed though. so it does look shocking, but i have all that...

Any help is appreciated guys!!