I'm having problems with the tailgate lock blowing the fuse. It will open ok a few times then the fuse blows again.

I've searched on here for a cause and found non opening tailgate problems caused by,
Filler flap motor
Tailgate micro switch
Tailgate latch

As the interior lights come on when the fuse blows ( it thinks the tailgate is open ) I've been checking to see exactly when the fuse blows and it is when the button on the tailgate is pressed.

Is a new latch required or could the micro switch be to blame.

Thanks Alan

Quite possibly just the mechanical part of the latch holding the switch depressed, and therefore drawing current for too long. Worth taking the latch apart for a look - you'll probably find it full of white gunge and sticking, in which case a good clean out and a spray with wd40 should have it operating properly again.

Thanks pab

I think pab has just described the switch (ie, in the tailgate handle), not the latch (ie in the base of the tailgate). It is the switch that accumulates the gunge. The latch breaks the worm drive. Just saying....

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

I think the switch in the handle is ok I can hear it clicking but I will check it.

In all the posts about a failed latch it was the worm drive and they had to unbolt the latch to be able to open the tailgate so thought from pabs post it could the white gunge ( old grease ? ) making it hard for the motor to turn the worm drive. Mine will open a couple of times before the fuse gives up.

Does the switch supply 12V + to the motor or does the switch go to earth ?

Dunkley is correct, I meant the switch. I'm thinking it might be sticking 'on' and the continued drain blows the fuse. Problems with the switch usually aren't the microswitch itself, they're usually due to the mechanical parts sticking.

SaabDriver wrote:

1: In all the posts about a failed latch it was the worm drive and they had to unbolt the latch to be able to open the tailgate.

2: Does the switch supply 12V + to the motor or does the switch go to earth ?

1: Been there, done it, got the T shirt.

2: AFAIK, 12V + to the motor then earth.

Clicking or not, recommend physically checking the switch, they can get very gunged up. Also, the latch - you may hear it or the motor operate but a broken worm drive will stop it working properly.

Bob

Loads of posts on here, including mine from about 2 years ago. 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

I've had it all in bits and it works without blowing the fuse, the worm drive is ok, the switch has been sprayed.

The only thing I noticed before I took it apart was that with the latch off the car I couldn't to get the latch into the closed position but now it moves easily, I couldn't see anything worn or broken to cause it.

Using a screwdriver to close the latch the micro switch clicks every time but it only works the latch about 90% of the time. When I tried it with the motor part removed from the catch the motor did seem a bit slow at times

I think I'll get a new one Mine, Saab convertible
Hers, MY08 GS auto