What are people using?
I need to top up for the first time at 4000 miles (not surprising to use a little during running in) and before I go for the obvious, I thought I'd ask others.

LR recommends Castrol and the required grade is 5W-30. I have no problem with Castrol, It's good stuff and now owned by BP.

Castrol website lists Magnatec 5W-30 A1 as the one to use but there is also a synthetic Edge 5W-30.
Website is very clever, you can get a recommendation just by putting in your reg No.

I am not looking for el-cheapo solution, I think that is false economy when you consider how many £ go through the fuel tank but pointless spending more than you need if you don't get extra protection or MPG.

Any comments?

Chris Gone... 2013 XS TD4 Manual Firenze Red
Gone... 2008 (09MY) XS Td4 Manual Stornaway Grey
Prior... 2003 G4 Discovery 2, 1998 Disco 1 and 1997 Disco 1 Company car before that
Also gone in Nov'13, after 7.5 yrs, to new owners with time for more TLC - 1980 Series III 88
Current 2015 Discovery Sport HSE 2.0

As far as I'm concerned if it meets the spec in the handbook its good enough. I think the Ford 913B spec (from memory) is easily met. To be honest my motor is topped up with oil from Tesco that meets the spec. I've no doubt that some will be horrified by that, but each to his own.

I work along the lines that the specs set out in the handbook ( for fuel, lubes etc) are there for a reason, whether exceeding the spec provides any benefit, well I'm just not sure about that so don't look to exceed. Now if you've bought an FL2 with a view to keeping it for a life time then maybe there's a comfort factor in in over spec'ing the oil in the hope that the motor will last for ever. In reality I suspect that most owners will not keep their FL2's too long, therefore you're looking to maintian it in a way that gives a trouble free life for what, two, three, four years. If the car can't survive that length of time running on 'on spec' lubes then there is a problem.

Regardless of make of car how many people do you know who have suffered a catstrophic engine failure that has been caused by the use of sub standard lubes ... not many I bet. So make sure you meet the specified requirements, thats all I would (and do) do.

I use Magnatec 5W-30 A1 You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape.
If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

If you want to kill your TD 4 engine prior to expiry of the 3-year LR guarantee, than continue to use the motor oils as recommended by LR as per the Ford Norm WSS ..913 B (so called A1/B1 oils). This motor oil has a REDUCED HTHS value of less than 2,9 mPas (HTHS = high tension, high shear) with the argument of Ford, that a reduced HTHS value will reduce fuel consumption. But at what price. Normally a high HTHS value (> 3,5 mPas) is demanded by most European car manufacturers as only those oils will ensure proper protection of our valuable engines. The Ford Norm WSS....913 A/B was established in 1998 - under todays technological standards a norm which is totally outdated and which does not reflect the vast improvements in motor oil developements. The HTHS value reflects the long term shearing stability of motor oils under pressure and temperature, and it is todays technological standard that only motor oils with a HTHS value of > 3,5 mPas will achieve this under our long term oil change intervals of 20 - 25.000 km.
So read the publication of Dr. Mairing " Motor oils and its European classification as per todays technology", and you will surely be convinced to use only motor oils which exceed the ACEA norm A3-A4 (for petrol engines) and B3-B4 for diesel engines). The Ford norm ...913 A/B reflects the ACEA norm A1/B1 - the lowest oil norm in Europe!

YF

So what oil do you recommend in laymans terms yamahafan?

And what would happen if you topped up with the oil your recommending and it already had the castrol stuff in??

I have topped up 500ml of Magnatec 5W-30 A1 as per Castorl recommnedation and it meets the LR (Ford) spec in the handbook. By doing this the warranty has to be 100% OK. However, I am listening to input ready for an oil change at some point before 15000 miles so please keep replies coming.

Yamaha-fan - I cannot trace a copy of Dr Mairing's article that you refer to (by using Google). Please can you point me in the right direction to obtain or view a copy? Low viscocity does not necessarily mean poor protection. I am also nterested in seeing your reply for Snappa to tell us what to use instead of A1 in terms of a product (make type etc). I have looked at the Castrol Edge oils that meet A3/B3 but they tend to refer to them being formulated to suit specific makes or models, e.g. BMW M-series, VW and Audi, etc.

Chris Gone... 2013 XS TD4 Manual Firenze Red
Gone... 2008 (09MY) XS Td4 Manual Stornaway Grey
Prior... 2003 G4 Discovery 2, 1998 Disco 1 and 1997 Disco 1 Company car before that
Also gone in Nov'13, after 7.5 yrs, to new owners with time for more TLC - 1980 Series III 88
Current 2015 Discovery Sport HSE 2.0

Dr. Mairing has written a book on lubricants, its classification, purpose and his views on which oil for which engine. It is not an article in a magazine or newspaper. His book is used by the German Courts as a qualified reference in cases of engines versus motor oil.
As I said before, the Ford Oil Norm WSS...913 A/B (A for petrol engines and B for diesel engines) was established in 1998 and does not reflect the vast improvements in motor oil developments as of today.
The Ford Norm WSS...913 A/B reflects ACEA A1/B1 - the lowest motor oil norm in Europe!
We all know that our TD4 engine is a co-development of Peugeot and Ford. Peugeot and Citroen use the very same engine in their latest SUV 4007 and C-Crosser. And both recommend motor oils at least according to ACEA B3 or B4.
If you have to fill-up motor oil do your engine the favour and use the better stuff meeting ACEA B3 or even better, B4. This recommendation is only valid for engines WITHOUT DPF!!!
If you have a DPF, please use motor oils as per ACEA norm C2 or C3 (so called "low saps" oils) which are reduced in ash of less than 0,5 vol%.
Modern motor oils are mixable without any problem - one of the ACEA achievements.

YF

Yeah so in laymans terms can you give us a brand example of an ACEA B4 oil that I could buy in a motor factors?

I'm afraid if I went to my local Halfrauds and asked for oil that meets the spec ACEA B4 the young assistants head might explode...

Snappa, a few examples:
MOBIL 1 Turbo Diesel 0W40, Castrol RS 0W40, Shell Helix Ultra Turbo Diesel 5W30, Liqui Moli Syntech 5W30, or any motor oil which meets the Mercedes Specification MB 229.5 (must be written on the oil bottle).

YF

Brilliant thanks

Hi Yamaha-fan,
You also advised me earlier on oil type we should be using, but I could also need in laymans terms an example of motor oils as per ACEA norm C2 or C3 (so called "low saps" oils), as my FL2 has a DPF fitted. 2007 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Manual with Premium Pack & Moonroof.
Stornoway Grey with Ebony Black Pleather, Clear Indicators, Body Side Mouldings etc.

I don't for one minute doubt the technical authenticity of the references made by YF. But I think there has to be an element of realism here. (lets focus on 99.9% not the 0.1%) Again I would ask the question about the history of engine failures which have resulted from the use of manufacturers recommended oils; are LR's dropping like flies because of poor lubes? How many people do you know, with any make of car) who have suffered an engine failure due to poor lubrication?

Bottom line is its not worth skimping on the oil, no point in trying to save a £5 on the top up oil, but equally if I'm using the manfacturers recommended product then I'm not gonig to loose sleep over it.

Also why would LR, or any manufacturer, knowing advise the use an oil that was inadequate, do they want to gain a reputation for poor reliabilty. I'm sure they wouldn't leave themselves open to this claim. I'd love to see LR in court opposite YF, but I'm not sure who would win and I'm not sure if I would even understand the evidence.

AndyC: Motor Oils which meet ACEA C2 and/or C3 are: Mobil 1 Formula ESP 5W30, Shell Helix Ultra "E" 5W30, Castrol Turbo Diesel low saps 5W30 and any other motor oil which meets the Mercedes Benz classification 229.31 (oil change intervall 15.000 km) or 229.51 (oil change intervall 25.000 km).

Regards YF

Hi Avtur, your comments are accepted in general.
But your experience comes from countries with speed limitations, so engine failures due to second class motor oils will probably be negligable. But do not forget stop and go traffic, mountain trips or offroad tours, which put immensive material stress on our engines. A good motor oil will enhance the reliability of motor components in general, and in the mentioned cases in particular. Example: increased failure of high pressure diesel pump and/or the diesel injectors and /or the outlet valves. Repair cost are in no relation to the price of better motor oils.
Other in Germany. We have no speed limits on our highways so a good motor oil is compulsory for a high speed trip on one of our Autobahn for which a motor oil with a high HTHS value is neccessary.
Ford/Landrover is the only European car manufacturer which I know of who still sticks to this outdated oil norm. Any other producer, be it Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Toyota, VW etc. have established their own oil norms reflecting the latest ACEA classification. If you look at such manufacturer oil norms it is evident that motor oils with a high HTHS value are demanded - for a very good reason.
So you can see that everything has two sides.

YF

Hello all

Interesting discussion. In Australia my local dealer assures me that all dealers use Mobil 1 full synthetic as standard sto ensure engine protection, o I guess we have no potential problems as YF indicates you may. Raises the question as to why specified oils vary from country to country. Regards Ub2
My first Landie; SE TD4 auto Sunroof, Narvik Black with Alpacca interior, towbar & rear spoiler.