I discovered recently that my freelander 2 does not have any brake pad wear indicators and almost the same time experienced some noise from front when braking.
I was horrified to see the state of the pads and discs.
Pads were actually metal to metal.
In my defence I was waiting for something to warn me on dash or planning to remove all road wheels during 1st warm day, whichever came 1st.
The discs were completely seized onto the hub and it took about 20 minutes with a lump hammer to shift them.

I thought I would share
(only able to add 1 pic at moment to gallery, so it is completed job)



 Fix it until it's broke !

Nice job,mine didn't have wear indicators either,your brakes will feel rubbish until they have worn in a bit then they are brilliant.

Edit when I did mine I did front and back at the same time if you've just done the front they may not seem as bad at first.

👍
Did my rears for the mot
Doing my front tomorrow /pads only

You don't need wear indicators with disc pads! You can see by looking at them (or feel them) how far down they have worn. I check mine every few weeks or when I wash it. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

The photo looks ever so nice ------ but being 'old school' I'm looking for evidence if grease and can't see any.
.
I always clean and grease the flanges and locator diameter on the hub and disc AND the locator screw.
.
Next time you have the discs off that lump hammer stays in the toolbox!!!!
.
It's equally important to grease the internal of the ally wheel locator diameter and flange. There is an electrical difference between dissimilar metals which sets up a corrosion cell. Corrosion products are always of greater volume than their constituent elements which is how wheels sieze to the hub. Theres nothing worse than having a puncture and finding that the wheel won't come off at the roadside on a wet winter evening.
.
I always copperslip these critical areas.
.
Kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

I did apply anti-seize copper grease on all mating surfaces, As mentioned next time it will be a much easier job to separate.
I took pics after all excess grease had been wiped off.

Here is a pic of discs and pads






and disc


 Fix it until it's broke !

Excellent Joe!
.
It's a pity that the manufacturers don't use a better anti corrosion metal for the disc . With all the scaling on the inside of your disc one wonders what happens to the strength of the disc.
.
When are you tackling the back brakes?
.
Kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Hi Fred, I hope to do the rear brakes 1st Saturday in May.
The Parking brake seems quite useless so I will look to rectify this.
Because the car is new to me, I am inspecting small area's when I have the opportunity and hopefully in near future will have completed all routine tasks and have an idea of what will need doing and when.
You may guess I am from a PPM background

Joe Fix it until it's broke !

The rusty discs is the reason I went for the Centric ones. They have the black coating which stops rust from setting in.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic19670-15.html 2008 Freelander 2 HSE Si6 Black/Black - Hers
2009 Jaguar XKR 4.2 S/C Portfolio
2005 Jaguar XJR 4.2 S/C Black/Cranberry
2005 Jaguar X-Type 3.0L AWD - Gone