We are all familiar with stories of rear diff and transfer box failure on the Freelander 2, we have had it one of our cars and know personally of three others. However, some vehicles are going for 100k+ miles with no problems and others are failing as low as 30k. Could this be due to a bad batch of components and poor quality control? A comment on one of the forums recently pointed to the fact that if you switch into some of the off road modes whilst on tarmac or firm ground it will cause the transmission to wind up and put extra stress on components.
So what if there is a software or electrical problem or even haldex clutch problem such that it goes into an off road mode intermittently without any indication of the dashboard? My son has complained in the past about the occasional strange handling of his FL2 despite having 4 wheel tracking checked then the diff and xfer box problem occured.
I wonder if we are fixing the symptoms rather than the cause? But how to check?

ps on the FL1 if the viscous coupling failed (common) it just caused bad tyre wear and I never heard of transmission failure so perhaps they don't build 'em like they (BMW) used to. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

on the FL1 if the VCU stiffened up (they would never apparently sieze but everything would become very 'stiff') then prolonged use in that state would lead to rear diff failure and/or IRD failure.

On my first FL1 I had to have the VCU replaced but ran it without the rear prop shafts and VCU, so front wheel drive only, for about 6 months before I found a decent 2nd hand VCU.

My 2nd FL1 never missed a beat.

Im guessing the Haldex will operate in 'no TR' mode when special programs are off, if the front wheels start to lose traction.
So IMO its probable that the 4 wheel drive system and haldex are in use, and under certain on road conditions the haldex will operate, and that this will put an amount of strain on the whole transmission.

Most of my driving is in straight lines up and down the A1 and A614/7, but Im occasionally a little 'enthusiastic' on the B roads.

Have the FL2's that suffer this failure been driven 'enthusiastically' frequently? Therefore could I be heading for this type of problem ? Who knows ???

All cars, no matter who the manufacturer, have inherent problems (BMW 2.0d powered 3/5 series for example have a problem that the cam chain is prone to breaking, but is located at the rear of the engine against the bulkhead, meaning engine out to change it!)

And unless you buy a cheap super mini, then repair costs are high regardless, even for a focus or astra or a Freelander 2.

I am one of the transfer box sufferers.

I drive mainly windy (as in lots of corners, not wind) A and B roads and enjoy driving them within legal limits. But still 40-60mph. I've only had the car for 10 months so would hope that wasn't it. I have also only used a different drive mode once, in snow.

My car has definitely been abused before I bought it. Transfer box gone, clutch is questionable and the battery doesn't hold its charge. All at 36k miles and just over 4 years old. So who knows how it was driven before I got.it. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

My car suffered what felt like transmission wind up that was traced to a Haldex software problem. See here: http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic19396.html 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Just found out that my transfer box has gone, apparently this had probably caused the wheel bearing issue I had when I bought the car as the play in the drive shaft is significant. The warrantee would not cover the wheel bearing, as this was 'ware and tear' . Wish me luck with the warrantee co. to see if they will cough up for the trans box.........

"Just found out that my transfer box has gone, apparently this had probably caused the wheel bearing issue I had when I bought the car as the play in the drive shaft is significant. The warrantee would not cover the wheel bearing, as this was 'ware and tear'"

Well I had the xfer box, rear diff pinion bearing and wheel bearing all replaced within a month at no charge to me. I am 12 months into a 2 year LR extended warranty and the car has just done 50k miles. No mention of wear and tear. I have had Renault Clios and Meganes with rear wheel bearing problems but not until about 80k+.

I have heard of some warranties not paying up on a wheel bearing unless it would fail an MOT on that component. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Thanks for that. I have asked the garage to replace the second Haldex filter as well as this requires the prop shaft to be removed so it makes sense to get this done at the same time. Got some phone calls to make!

Bad news re the xfer box. I think the second filter is integral with the Haldex pump?

I think the filter does come off: 4C019, edit:no that is the pump!

Ok I need my eyes/memory checking! That is the pump, just double checked. Does anyone know if it is relatively easy to change the rubber seal between diff and Haldex with the prop shaft out of the way as I may suggest doing this at the same time?

You can change the seal but you need the right fitting tool to get it at the right depth and dead square. Failure to do this will end with oil appearing from the drain hole at the bottom of the diff. To be honest, if it is not leaking, I would leave alone. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Ok, thanks for that. Had a curry and brain is now back in gear, the filter I was referring to is on the pump assembly and can be washed, this is the one that you need the prop shaft off to do. At least I am glad I am thinking straight again .