The use depends on what exactly it is.

A true snorkel will allow a greater wading depth. A raised air intake is not waterproof and is intended to keep dust and dirt out of the intake.

The wider the intake, the better, in terms of efficiency. Any extension would be expected to cause a (very) minor increase in fuel consumption. Freelander 2 2007 TD4 Manual HSE Tambora Flame
Discovery 3 2006 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver
Previously: Freelander 2 2007 TD4 Manual SE Santorini Black

Has anyone done the calcs for a 60mm dia. pipe over length?

My calculations suggest it would be within reasonable tolerance, but i've had to use some assumptions about length, and choke points, and as always, would like a double check.

Thanks submarine
I have been looking at this
http://www.masai4x4.com/defender/snorkel-kit-raised-air-intake/
70mm tube
Could it be adapted and not yuk?
Or should I start from scratch
Been looking behind the wing, not much room to run a new pipe to the air box
So thinking using all the standard stuff behind the wing and lots off CT1 lol
Think I need to stop thinking about this for a little wile it's doing my head in

CQR - I hope that mud picture was on private land!

I've thought of snorkel for piece of mind, but theres far more than keeping the engine going - breathers (inc fuel system), ecu's and connectors... saying that, something that mimics teh existing intake shape to come through the wing, and then is shaped to sit on teh A pillar would look good... 2000 Xei 1.8 gone
2004 HSE Td4 Auto, MT's, sump guard, sliderz - gone
2014 GS Man - AT's, Mantec Sump guard and tank guard, split charger in boot, towbar, work in progress...

Thanks. Simong_uk
Yes private land
Cuddymunts offroad, it's a club/ pay and play

Im no mechanic or fabricator by any stretch of the imagination but the 200Tdi version looks like it could probably be modified to fit, just buy a spare FL2 air vent and seal it around the base of the raised intake ??

That doesnt take into account sealing everything else like the airbox itself or the exiting flow pipes into it, or for the millions of other seals and diff breathers etc etc etc.

but it should solve your problem and keep the majority of mud and stuff out the vent

If I went with the side vent,I would remove the original make a tight fitting plate to replace it and seal it in place
Found 3 breaths + the engine one ,I will be raising the 3 I have found but the hunt continues lol
Not sure what to do about the fuel tank breath

the side vent sounds like a plan, saves you cutting in the wing to run the pipe in, and the look would be more factory look potentially.

still cant believe how much mud you managed to get all over your FL2 ................ are you sure you didnt just scoop up loads of mud in a bucket and throw it over ??

No, lol
Here's a picture when nearly muddy



It's very muddy site with all the rain we had

Amazing little ''soft' roaders if you have the guts to do it.

I took one of my FL1 on a green lane day in the Derbyshire peaks, managed to rip open and flatten the drivers side sill. Mantec chequer plate and touch of paint and you couldnt tell the difference.

Lol
I managed to pull both the door sills of the drivers side once plus the long one behind the doors

Right, my thoughts on this process are as follows:

1) I personally am not aiming to be sinking any deeper than the air intake side vent, and feel that the benefit of the snorkel would be keeping crud out of the intake and aesthetic (if we get it right) more than ultimate depth.

2) I still would like to waterproof the rest of the intake internals because I think it should have been done in the first place (next thing they'll be offering a landy with a drop top )

3) Notwithstanding previous, I believe that there would be a benefit of raising the vents for auxiliary breathers also, just to save hassle in the event of a slightly more involved mud bath.

4) I don't know the extent of waterproofing for the ecu etc so that is staying as is.

Current thinking is as CQR suggested, aiming to make a baffle similar to the link you just posted. I think the clamp over plastic affiars fitted to D3/4 is unachievable.This to replace entire side vent, meaning our problems are two fold, fitment and connections to what's already there.

I'll get a sketch thrown together when I return this eve and see if that makes more sense...

Don't forget the position of the starter motor. Could come back to bite you on the arse at a later date..... Foraging near Gaydon....
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MY13 HSE Lux SD4, Baltic Blue - current, 30,000> miles without fault
MY12 HSE 2.2 SD4, Sumatra Black - gone after 10 months/43,000 fault-free miles

It was never designed to be a wet mudplugger. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

there's obviously a limit to everything, but with a few modifications those limits are less intrusive. The challenge is to get the car to the edge of that operating envelope safely, and without causing damage, or too much damage, depends on how sacrificial components are in the users eyes. A super rich user might consider the whole vehicle sacrificial whereas I would much rather avoid any damage being not super rich.

Ok good point re: starter motor, might need a think about covering but truthfully, that's much cheaper than a top end rebuild so priority goes to snorkel for me.

How many here would like a snorkel just for aesthetic rreasons? If say mantec made one and you had no intention of using the snorkel for its design purpose? If it was as much use as the fl2 spoiler, ie looks nice but does nothing from an aerodynamic point of view would you fit one?