Hi all,

Per an similar post under a different heading (https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic21921.html) I'm trying to fix a non functional PTC heater on my FL2.

The error code I'm getting is "B10EA-14 (2F) Positive temperature coefficient heater - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open circuit"

Thanks to the help given on my previous post I can see how to take the heater out, but I think there's a couple of things that might be stopping it working and I'd like to test as much as I can before pulling the car apart.

The fuse is OK, and the heater itself has good power / ground connections (i.e. the two big cables running to it)



So I think means either the heater itself or the temp sensor (<<edit>>) is stuffed.


Looking at an electrical diagram it seems that the heater has two switched power feeds - one from the ignition, and one other that (I guess) comes from the temperature sensor so that the car knows when the heater is required.

Click image to enlarge

There is no temperature sensor associated with the PTC heater on its own, the amount of heating is controlled by the ambient air sensor and the engine coolant temperature sensor over the CANBUS to the CJB.

The PWM wire receives pulses of electric from the FET to the left in the diagram, the length of the pulses is controlled from the Central Junction Box and it is this wire that is rapidly switching on and off the supply.

The heater will take a maximum of 1.25kw but that equates to about 100 amps with a continuous connection, that is why it is pulsed and controlled via the FET to keep the current under control.

Chances are if it is not a wiring fault, the PTC heater or the FET is not switching.

Thanks for the reply, very useful. Guess I shouldn't just stick 12v to it then!

Forgive my ignorance, but what does FET stand for? Does it just control heating or does it look after other things too?

Out of curiosity do you think there should be quite a lot of resistance between the main power and ground terminals on the heater, or would that depend on the feed from the FET?

Cheers


Edit:
Just found that it stands for "Field Effect Transistor" which for all the sense it makes to me might be part of the starship enterprise but wikipedia knows about these things

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field-effect_transistor

So its a kind of switch (as you said that creates pulses to regulate the heat) and it looks like it would be built onto a PCB. Any thoughts on where I might find the little blighter and how to test it? Its not actually built into the heater is it?

Thanks again

It is showing as contained within the Central Junction Box which is behind the glove compartment, as to whether it is soldered or plugged in, I haven't a clue.

Check its not disabled.... there was a fault in some and an advisory said to disable then a later one enabled again via software...

T Terran



'The' Car For The Modern Day UK Roads ( ie all the pot holes )

'A Freelander that leaks oil is just marking its territory' - Wise words

Now a member of the FL2 'Silly Bill' Club

maybe to do with this?

That's the one... I know as I checked mine had been done along with the sun roof with LR when I bought it.

A quick call to a dealer with a reg etc and they can quickly confirm.

T Terran



'The' Car For The Modern Day UK Roads ( ie all the pot holes )

'A Freelander that leaks oil is just marking its territory' - Wise words

Now a member of the FL2 'Silly Bill' Club

Thanks guys, I believe the way it was disabled was to remove the 100a fuse, mine is in place and ok so I need to dig deeper I'm afraid.

Will update the thread if I get anywhere...

So I finally had some time to look into this...

I got a second hand hand heater for £45 from fleabay. It was a bit hard to find the right part to start with because I was searching under the LR part number, but realised that the same heater was used in lots of other vehicles (mainly Volvos) and searched under the generic part number 6G9N-18D612-BA - after that I found quite a few for sale.

It took about an hour and a half to swap out the units, now that I know how to do it, I'd says its half an hours work.

A couple of notes in case anyone else has to swap theirs out at some stage...

1) Before even thinking about swapping it out, pull off the passengers side floor console extension and see if you can reach in and unplug the 3-wire control plug from the heater unit. Small hands would be a bonus. Spray a bit of WD40 into the plug and put it back. The reason I say this is because after I got my heater out I could see a bit of corrosion on the socket, but you cant see the socket till you get the heater out. I suspect my old heater is fine, but the corrosion on the socket was stopping it working (no visible damage to the heater and the resistance on the old & new ones was the same)

2) To take out the floor console so you can get to the heater:
- I didn't unhook the battery or pull the heater fuse and no harm done, but its probably good practice.
- Take out the terrain response switch (30 seconds work).
- Unscrew the 8 7mm bolts holding the console in place (4 front, 4 back).
- Unhook the handbrake gaitor from the floor console.
- Take the gearknob off (pull down where the gaiter meets the gearknob and it unclips easily, then you'll see how the knob itself comes off).
- Yank the handbrake up as hard as you can. I mean really yank it up as hard as you can - otherwise you won't get the console out without scratching the facia around your heater controls. Ask me how I know.
- The console can then be moved up and tilted back (no need to unplug the electrics at the back). Watch you don't scratch the ^&$%£* heater facia.

3) TOPIX says to unbolt the selector lever and remove it completely, but I just undid the 4 bolts holding it in place and pushed it to one side - it just squeezes past the end of the passengers seat. If you take it out you might have to recalibrate/adjust the selector cables.

4) The two heater ducts can be popped out/in again easily.

5) 2 screws and the heater then slides cleanly out

6) Back together, errors cleared with my IID tool (highly recommended - http://www.gap-diagnostic.com) and job done.

All in all its pretty simple and I now have heat about 30 seconds after starting the car - I suspect it was all just a bad connection tho.


Cheers



PS If anyone needs a replacement heater they can have my old one (99% sure its functional) for the postage cost, just drop me a PM.

No I'm not about to take my heater out, but just to say thanks for sharing this solution with us in such detail. Bound to help someone else sometime!  Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

Interesting. Can I ask if all Freelanders have this electric boost heater fitted? I have thought on many occasions this winter about how long it takes for the car to heat up (thank goodness for heated seats!).

MY 2010 XS model

Thanks for any info

Hi Sako,

To the best of my knowledge it was fitted to all UK spec vehicles (some cars from colder climates have the diesel webasto heater fitted which may or may not replace the electric heater).

With mine the air is noticably warmer once the heater kicks in. Thats not to say its hot, but you can tell that somethings working.

If you know anyone with a full function fault code reader you can find out for sure if yours is working or not. Be aware that generic code readers might not be able to read the module however.

Cheers

Many thanks A4c that's really helpful.

I think I will just check whether mine is working or not in which case as it certainly takes what feels an age for the cabin to heat up on even mildly chilly days!

Great info - but would recommend using contact cleaner rather than WD40 for corroded connectors 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

a4c wrote:

So I finally had some time to look into this...

I got a second hand hand heater for �45 from fleabay. It was a bit hard to find the right part to start with because I was searching under the LR part number, but realised that the same heater was used in lots of other vehicles (mainly Volvos) and searched under the generic part number 6G9N-18D612-BA - after that I found quite a few for sale.

It took about an hour and a half to swap out the units, now that I know how to do it, I'd says its half an hours work.

A couple of notes in case anyone else has to swap theirs out at some stage...

1) Before even thinking about swapping it out, pull off the passengers side floor console extension and see if you can reach in and unplug the 3-wire control plug from the heater unit. Small hands would be a bonus. Spray a bit of WD40 into the plug and put it back. The reason I say this is because after I got my heater out I could see a bit of corrosion on the socket, but you cant see the socket till you get the heater out. I suspect my old heater is fine, but the corrosion on the socket was stopping it working (no visible damage to the heater and the resistance on the old & new ones was the same)

2) To take out the floor console so you can get to the heater:
- I didn't unhook the battery or pull the heater fuse and no harm done, but its probably good practice.
- Take out the terrain response switch (30 seconds work).
- Unscrew the 8 7mm bolts holding the console in place (4 front, 4 back).
- Unhook the handbrake gaitor from the floor console.
- Take the gearknob off (pull down where the gaiter meets the gearknob and it unclips easily, then you'll see how the knob itself comes off).
- Yank the handbrake up as hard as you can. I mean really yank it up as hard as you can - otherwise you won't get the console out without scratching the facia around your heater controls. Ask me how I know.
- The console can then be moved up and tilted back (no need to unplug the electrics at the back). Watch you don't scratch the ^&$%�* heater facia.

3) TOPIX says to unbolt the selector lever and remove it completely, but I just undid the 4 bolts holding it in place and pushed it to one side - it just squeezes past the end of the passengers seat. If you take it out you might have to recalibrate/adjust the selector cables.

4) The two heater ducts can be popped out/in again easily.

5) 2 screws and the heater then slides cleanly out

6) Back together, errors cleared with my IID tool (highly recommended - http://www.gap-diagnostic.com) and job done.

All in all its pretty simple and I now have heat about 30 seconds after starting the car - I suspect it was all just a bad connection tho.


Cheers



PS If anyone needs a replacement heater they can have my old one (99% sure its functional) for the postage cost, just drop me a PM.