Hello,

According to freelander 2 owner's handbook, to start the diesel engine, manual transmission
1 Insert the remote control into the docking port and press to latch
2 Press the clutch pedal
3 With the clutch pedal depressed briefly press and release the start button. There will be a brief delay whilst the glow plugs warm up, then the engine will crank automatically until it starts

Reading this forum, I realize that many members do not follow this procedure exactly.
1 : turn on the ignition without starting the engine
2 : check the warning indicators illuminate are ok
3 : after that , with the clutch pedal depressed briefly press and release the start button.

Could you give me your opinion on these two methods with your preferences?

regards,

When it is cold it certainly starts easier using the second method. Remember there are never problems, just new challenges

agreed with second method when below zero degrees.

I get in my car, insert the fob, press the clutch then hit the start button. I've done it like that all the time. Today the temperature was -2, the engine started straight away without the glow plug light illuminating. The other day the glow plug light came on a +2 degrees. I just let the car decide if it wants to use glow plugs or not. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

I do the same as Stevie but I have never seen my glow plug light on the dash come on, even down to -3deg.

I do the second method until the system check light goes out.

ok so general opinion is the second way

The first method works when everything to do with cold starting is working correctly

The second method works because a component/components has reached its 'best before' date, and is a workaround for failing bits

Thats why I have to think about doing something before doing it. Ie getting out of a chair, lifting something etc.

Very interesting...

Having recently spent some time recently in the Alps with temperatures down to -15, and leaving the car in the cold for several days, I would conclude that the 2nd method is better.

Am currently researching...

1. Best fuel types for arctic conditions (Swiss Diesel, French supermarket diesel, Quality Diesel from FINA or ELAN guaranteed to -20 oC)
2. Use of fuel additives for arctic conditions ( A £10 pot of the stuff extends the use down to -28 oC, allegedly)
3. Best battery for arctic conditions ( can I fit a 1000 amp coldstart, 110 amp.hr in the battery compartment?)
4. Life expectancy, test and replace of Glow Plugs ... and cost.

Any thoughts on these matters most welcome.