I've just done mine, bit the bullet after over a year of no stop/start and then cross-fingered starting in cold weather. I'd sweated a bit about doing it myself as I'd read all the recalibration stuff etc and thought purchasing a cheaper than dealer battery would leave me no better off if I've then got to go to a dealer for calibration. Also, I'm not a skilled mechanic or electrical engineer.

The job took me 15 mins, it's an utter doddle. Took the car for a four mile spin (having noticed the much faster cold cranking) and although it's only 5º C outside, the stop/start system started working perfectly. I won't be going near any dealer therefore for any calibration etc. In addition, although the clock needed resetting, the radio presets were all retained (no power during battery changeover) and resetting the electric windows quick and simple.

ad210358 wrote:

This one will do an AGM battery, but shop around, prices vary from £59 to £99.
Also if you have a 13 Pin connector for use when towing you can buy the adapter from Martin on Disco3.com and charge it without lifting the bonnet.

http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/MXS%205.0

I use the 13 pin at the back to plug my CTEK charger in and no, nothing is disconnected and it charges with the battery still connected to all associated wiring.

A CTEK is good but there are also others that will do the job, just don't buy cheap and nasty as any surging or AC ripple will/could damage the electronics. I have topped mine up for a couple of years now without disconnecting the battery.

As above, you will be fine using a CTEK with the battery all connected, you can also get the "Comfort Connector" which connects direct to the poles of the battery and charge it that way, but the 13 Pin is easier for me.

msfergus wrote:

I've just done mine, bit the bullet after over a year of no stop/start and then cross-fingered starting in cold weather. I'd sweated a bit about doing it myself as I'd read all the recalibration stuff etc and thought purchasing a cheaper than dealer battery would leave me no better off if I've then got to go to a dealer for calibration. Also, I'm not a skilled mechanic or electrical engineer.

The job took me 15 mins, it's an utter doddle. Took the car for a four mile spin (having noticed the much faster cold cranking) and although it's only 5º C outside, the stop/start system started working perfectly. I won't be going near any dealer therefore for any calibration etc. In addition, although the clock needed resetting, the radio presets were all retained (no power during battery changeover) and resetting the electric windows quick and simple.

Yes, that's the one I fitted to my MY2010 last June. No issues disconnecting old one and connecting new one, and I didn't have to reset anything.

I put in a Varta F21 just before Christmas. Printed out a price from the internet and got a local battery place to price match. Swapped the battery over myself and stop/start sorted it self out after about half an hour. I paid 135 quid. Car starts fine and in cold weather haven't had a haldex fault come up on the dash. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Thanks for the replies. Will get one ordered

Hi

Recond is just for WET and MF batteries. Recond makes no use on an AGM battery.

Best regards
Pierre

 

PIERRE LÖFGREN │ W W Sale Support
CTEK SWEDEN AB │ 

Finally got round to doing this battery swap. Was relatively straight forward although I did need a second person to keep the cables out of the way as I removed and replaced the battery which was heavy (as expected). Had to undo one extra cable from the negative otherwise I would not have been able to pull the cables to one side and get the battery out/in. Only casualty was a tiny black metal clasp that held the plastic connecter to the metal plate attached to the positive terminal. it's now somewhere in the engine compartment or on the road somewhere on the way to Ilkley. Have used a cable tie to keep it attached as I think that's all the clasp was for. Put gas tube back in and put a bung in the other end as there was one there on the one I took out. Had to set clock, reset windows and sun roof and it did a couple of STOP/STARTS on the first trip out. I will get a new tiny metal clasp as it will annoy me knowing it's missing, unless, of course, it's £50 from LR

don't, whatever you do, lose the black metal clasp from the underside of the electrical connecter. it isn't available as a separate part (which I suspected) and the whole connecter is £83 ! needless to say, the cable tie is staying where it is

You could get a LOT of cable ties for 83 quid lol

EYorkshire wrote:

Quote:

If a new battery is fitted to the vehicle, the BMS (battery monitoring system) module will require recalibrating to register the greater charge holding capacity of the battery, this is performed using Land Rover approved diagnostic equipment.

If diagnostic equipment is not available the BMS module will recalibrate automatically however, this could take 48 hours to
complete depending on vehicle usage. The Stop/Start system will not function correctly until the BMS module is
recalibrated.

A cut and paste from Landrovers manual, its a case of swapping yourself and letting the 'BMS' calibrate itself. You may have to reset your windows afterwards and that's all.

Interesting as the MY14 brochure does not mention this at all.

Click image to enlarge

 MY14 Kahn Converted Dynamic - Fuji White Ebony/Pimento Interior
MY15 Xenon Headlight Conversion

MY17 RRS SVR - Estoril Blue Cirrus/Ebony 🪣💺’s