Bill Turner wrote:

...always specified that an isolating valve had to be fitted in-between the flexible and the copper supply pipe..

Just checked mine (new build house) and each pipe has it's own isolator

Saves raking around for a stop cock that might not actually stop the flow until the system is empty

I always fit an isolator if I'm plumbing something in or replacing something. They are cheap and make it much easier to work on a particular tap or appliance. I have noticed that they are fitted as standard in Germany to taps, cisterns, etc. Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

Thanks for all your responses folks. Been a busy couple of days so just catching up with posts on the forum.

All of the flexible fittings have an isolation valve fitted, the only problem was that the sink has a porcelain cover below it that hides the pipework. Until this week we had never taken it off. It actually hangs below the sink by a couple of hooks and springs.

I like the idea of an easy to operate stopcock/isolation valve, so we may look into that. The trouble with shutting the water supply off at the stopcock is it stops your friendly neighbour from watering your plants when you are on holiday.

It was the hot water side which needed the hot water stopcock shutting off in the end to halt the flow, and it looks like the combination of a kink in the routing of the pipe, corrosion from being up against the tap fitting in the sink and soap from a previously leaking liquid soap dispenser (the porcelain fitting underneath had a collection of old liquid soap in it when removed) all contributed to the failure. The seal around the tap and sink was poor.

The hot water side is at 3 bar and we have a Megaflo hot water tank - so water flow was quite high when it went! 2016 BMW X3 30d SE in red
MY2013 SD4 XS Firenze Red, 19" 10 spoke contrast paint wheels, Signature Strips, Grand Black Lacquer trim, Cold Climate Pack - gone!
2007 TD4 S Stornoway Grey - gone!

It's incredible how much damage liquid soap can do!

There are also pipes under mains pressure feeding dish washer and washing machine - and they don't have the benefit of the braid! Everyone can spread it - Anyone can catch it. Stay home - the life you save can be your own!

Washing machine hoses have a reinforcing nylon braid within the hose structure, you generally can't see it, if yours does not have this then change them, as they too can fail, especially if 'stuffed' behind the appliance and subject to abrasion from the movement of the appliance.
My company supplies dental equipment which is connected to the water main, we always specify that the water is turned off overnight, to protect ourselves more than anything. Some of the water lines in the kit is small bore polypropylene and doesn't like too much pressure.
The mains pressure overnight can soar when industry isn't drwaing on the mains, this can put immense strain on pipe work, we have measured 150 psi overnight in some places and I dare say it will be higher in many too.

SimonB wrote:

Bill Turner wrote:

PS I know it is boringly obvious but if leaving the house for Christmas Hols. TURN THE WATER OFF AT THE MAINS!!!!!!

Does that not mean turning off the boiler also, which means no CH frost setting and the risk of burst pipes?

That's right Bill, I'm away to Cornwall for Xmas and will be turning my main tap off but leaving the Combi on frost stat setting.

I fitted a new kitchen sink and mixer type tap a few weeks back, the one that I took out was 'coppered' all the way but this one was two 12mm thread entry with O'ring braided hoses. I did them up hand tight after wetting the O'rings but still check daily for leaks. Not happy having to use them but the tap threads are too close together for anything DIY that I can do.

Cornwall for Xmas EY, very nice. Have a great one mate

Cheers 'wiz', have a good time yourself Got an invite from my daughter so can't pass up free food etc, and she has a dishwasher so no doing the dishes after

Past master wrote:

I always fit an isolator if I'm plumbing something in or replacing something. They are cheap and make it much easier to work on a particular tap or appliance. I have noticed that they are fitted as standard in Germany to taps, cisterns, etc.

Past master wrote:
I always fit an isolator if I'm plumbing something in or replacing something. They are cheap and make it much easier to work on a particular tap or appliance. I have noticed that they are fitted as standard in Germany to taps, cisterns, etc.

I have been doing the same for the past few years in my house but I have recently discovered that some of them seem to seize up or get very stiff (especially the full bore ones) and then start leaking around the screw slot when you finally get them moving. If you look on the Screwfix website comments it seems to be a problem with some batches. I had to take some back because I couldn't close them and I hadn't even installed them.

"Other makes are available"

Bill. Life Honorary Member of Wallasey Motor Club.
Licenced MSA Radio Operator for 35+ years.
Rallying is the only sport.

I am a great believer in these things but there are two problems
1. You don't know which make or batch you are buying (they all look the same)
2. You don't know you have a bad one until you try to use it in a couple of years time.

I ended up with a bathroom where I couldn't turn the water off as none of the isolators would close completely.

The Isolation valves each side of the central heating pump have similar problems. When I last changed the pump I changed the valves as well as recommended by a plumber. Kind of defeats the object of having isolation valves! - (which is to service/change the component without disturbing the rest of the system)  10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Isolation valves for pumps should be Gate valves -example Screwfix Code 81629, or conventional gate valves fitted in pipework in close proximity to the pump.

Bill  Life Honorary Member of Wallasey Motor Club.
Licenced MSA Radio Operator for 35+ years.
Rallying is the only sport.