Hi al
I need some advice on what engine oil to buy I have got a 2007 57 plate freelander 2 I've looked in the handbook and it says sae-5w-30 meeting ford 913b specification but I've been asked for the acea number but it doesn't say anything in the handbook so any advice would appreciated 57 plate now on a private plate GS stornoway grey with privacy glass colour coded mirror covers rear spoiler and heko wind deflectors parrot ck 3100 and
colour coded door handles

CASTROL MAGNATEC 5w-30 A1 FULLY SYNTHETIC (Ford) Your engine would benefit from an engine flush before replacing the oil, such as Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush.

As well as neutralising acids, it cleans the engine from the inside. Removes deposits from lubrication holes, oil screens, piston ring zone, etc. Reduces engine noise and oil consumption. Improves compression. Increases vehicle’s reliability. Allows the fresh oil to develop its full performance after an oil change.

Don't forget to change the filter

Opei, site sponsor, were doing a great deal on Shell Helix HX7 AF 5w-30 as you get 1 litre free. Kilian, can I ask what experience you have using the engine flush? Thanks

I've always used an engine flush when doing an oil change, then again most of the vehicles I've every owned have been low milage.

I used to maintain a fleet of 30 vehicles, back in those days before synthetic oil the carbon build up around rockers used to get pretty bad, and when the first hydraulic tappets came out they used to get clogged especially fords; on the new fleet I started to use an engine flush and noticed how clean the engine were inside when stripping an engine, and some had covered in excess of 200,000 miles in there life time.

When using an engine flush in a high milage engine that I do not know the history of, I'd first change the oil and filter, any low cost fully synthetic and run for 200 miles, then add the flush and run at 2000rpm for about 20mins, drain and replace the oil and filter and use a flush every oil change.

Using an engine flush in an high milage or unknown engine may be to aggressive, new oil has detergents added that after a few hundred miles will slowly deminish and oil starts to degrade as it gets contaminated with carbons & acids.

In the first 6 months of ownership of my FL I changed my engine oil 3 times, she now runs sweet and no knocks even on a cold morning, may be a little excessive given the price of oil, but a replacement engine is considerably more.

Thanks for the advice, much appreciated as I intend to keep the car for a while and prefer the preventative approach. I have had the car a few months and it has done 74k now with full LR history, would it be worth doing the two oil changes as you suggest or could I just do the flush, oil and filter?

Hi Rich, entirely up to you! As you've only had it a couple on months for peace of mind, I'd go on the side of caution and purchase a known low cost synthetic oil and quality filter, run for a while, flush and then put a quality oil and filter on. This will help clean the hydraulic lifters and small oil passages. Dealer service doesn't mean squat, most dealers vac the oil out through the dip stick tube, leaving the worst heavy gunk at the bottom of the sump. If you want to go one step further buy a Neodymium Block Magnet and stick on the sump close to the drain plug.

On an engine of that milage I'd also consider: Liqui Moly Cera Tec (Expensive but worth it) this is a ceramic friction modifier, which chemically & thermal bonds to the engine preventing metal to metal contact, the engine will run a lot smoother and the effects last approx; 30,000 miles regardless of oil changes.

Thanks, I like peace of mind. So far I have bought Shell Helix HX7 AF 5w-30 synthetic technology engine oil, not knowing what is good quality oil or not, would you use this as the pre flush oil change or post flush. Either way could you recommend what oil would be either the cheaper pre flush or better post flush, if that makes sense? I have bought the standard LR filter, I take it that there are no improvements to be made there? Cheers for all your help, Rich

I use Granville oil in mine. http://www.granvilleoil.com/product_info.p...=1&y=1
Mainly because we use it at work and it costs me nothing! If I was paying for it it would cost me £13.95 + vat (delivered) for 5 litres (trade). I probably do 5-6,000 miles per year in my Freely and I change it every 6 months, changing the filter on every other oil change. It meets the spec required for the engine so I can't see any benefit of paying three times as much for other oils.

Last edited by Steve D on 9th Dec 2014 9:48 am. Edited 2 times in total

Thanks Steve, I presume that is suitable for my 2007 vehicle as it has the Peugot engine and no DPF?

Yep. Mines a 2008 so same setup. If you are unsure go to the link I posted and at the top of that page there is a 'lubricant advisor' box. Enter your vehicle details and they will list all the specific lubricants that they carry for your vehicle.

Hi Rich, I'd go with what Steve has recommended as a pre flush, £19 for Granville Hypalube 5W30 on e-bay is a reasonable cost for 5L.

Shell Helix is a very good motor oil, everyone has their own opinions, myself I only ever Castrol Magnatec A1, but as long the oil meets Ford standards you will be OK.

Thanks all for the advice, very much appreciated

Thanks for allthe advice its appreciated 57 plate now on a private plate GS stornoway grey with privacy glass colour coded mirror covers rear spoiler and heko wind deflectors parrot ck 3100 and
colour coded door handles