Sorry for not making myself clear... And sorry if I offended somehow through my way of expressing my ideas.
It was not my intention, just my lack of English language and English way of expressing myself.

Back to the problem, inside the throttle body there is the acting part - the motor - and the feedback part - a variable resistance, a potentiometer - to read the mechanical part - flap, to be exact - position.
All units are built to fit a certain profile/tolerances, but each unit has its own particularities.
To be more exact, the values given by the potentiometer for flap's end travel points differs a little between units.
If the ECU is not learning those values on the new unit, it uses the values from the old unit.
This could be OK in certain cases, but in the same time, if the values differs in the wrong direction, it may be the case when the ECU will try to move the flap further past the actual mechanical end - because it thinks it didn't reach the end travel - and therefore shortening the life span of the ensemble.

The people who replaced the body should know that a calibration should be made after replacing.
If you replaced it at dealer, then maybe the dealer made the calibration. Otherwise, you may be lucky or not and the problem could appear again after some time.

Just a thought - I wonder if a mismatch as Alex describes above is the cause of all/some of the throttle body gears failures members have experienced? i.e. - not set up correctly in the first place  10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Possibly, but of the ones I remember reading, its been the first time that the body has gone in each case, so if its not learned, its been from the factory like that.

Yes, as I said - not set up correctly in the first place! 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Thanks for the replies everyone.
I'll have to get the car booked into a main dealer as I only have an Autel MOT Pro for diagnostics. There's nobody near me has Land Rover software, so main dealer it is. Can't imagine it being overly expensive to get done

if you can find anyone with an " Autodiagnos" diagnostic tool that will do, it or a garage with Bosch KTS, These can configure your TB Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

I have an Autel Maxidas DS708 which does it. There must be someone near you who has one of these. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Just a quick update. I've found someone close to me who specialises in Land Rovers and who has the proper Autologic equipment, but he's on holiday for 2 weeks
It's strange as I'm also getting a "Circuit low" fault code which suggests a wiring problem.
Also getting intermittent Lambda sensor faults too. Unsure which fault is turning on the CEL on the dash.

I'll keep you all updated

Hmm. Today I switched off my FL and thought I had parked on a duck or something as we heard a terrible squawking sound from the engine. I started it up again and it was still there with the engine running. I switched off and lifted the bonnet and the noise was coming from the throttle body - sounded like the dreaded plastic gears chattering away and chewing themselves up. So, what's the score? Replace the body and get it recalibrated? How much do they cost? Oldgeezer's post talks about an Autodiagnos diagnostic tool I have one of those at work but the software hasn't been updated since 2005. Could that be used? Would it be worth removing the plastic flaps that break up at the same time or even trying get a complete manifold with throttle body from a later model? Mines just reached 80,000 miles this week.

Edit
Okay, I did a search and have ordered a new throttle body from ebay for £100 delivered free to my local Argos. Is it just a fit and forget part or will it need setting/calibrating?

Well, I finally got round to fitting it this morning, took me 30 mins from start to finish and that included at least 15 minutes searching for the two rear bolts that dropped out as I removed it. I had remembered reading that you only need to loosen those two to remove the valve. Unfortunately I only remembered that after I lost them! Initially I only found one so I used a new bolt but just before I started up I had a fear that the missing bolt COULD have dropped into the turbo intake pipe and might find its way into the engine so I looked a little harder and found it on top of the wiring harness.

Anyway, I have been driving it about on a daily basis including one long weekend away where I did around 300 miles since my previous post with no ill effects other than an occasional crunching/clicking/sqwawking noises when I switched off plus a slightly longer shut down period before the engine came to a complete stop. New one now fitted, those problems have gone and all seems fine. I opened the old one up out of curiosity and found the nylon gears completely mashed up.

Now, as I have been running it for a couple of weeks with (presumably) the throttle flap hardly working due to the stripped gears with no loss of performance or increase in fuel consumption, do I really need it to be set up by a dealer/specialist as previously mentioned?

Hi. The guy I went to regarding the new throttle body adaptation said he has fitted quite a few of them and has never had to perform any setup after fitting. The only thing that brought this to my attention was because I ran another diagnostics check after I had fitted the new part. The adaptation is supposed to be done according to Land Rover but from what I can gather you can get away without doing it.

On another note the vehicle is back with me as there is a Lambda sensor fault. Hopefully it's just dodgy wiring as the fault code is saying "open circuit"

Hi, I'm having the same problem with my FL2, 2008, I switched the throttle body and the car is running normal, normal power, but when I turn off the car it looks like the throttle body does not want to stop and keeps looking for the position. Unfortunately the Land Rover authorized personnel here does not know this calibration ... any suggestions?