'click sound' may be the steering lock solenoid

try wigggling the steering wheel before putting the fob in the dock

Always try and leave the steering wheel in it's central location - wheels pointing forward

If you hold the steering wheel while you undock the fob you should feel the clunk of the steering lock solenoid 2002 Honda VFR800
2002 Toyota Celica 140 Silver (mid life crisis - again!)
2007 FL2 GS Manual Army Reconnaissance Green + freel2.com sticker
2004 Toyota Celica 140 Black - Gone
2000 Toyota Celica 140 Silver - Gone
1998 Toyota Celica ST Pearl Green - Gone
1996 Nissan Primera 1.6 - Gone
1994 Rover Montego 1.6 Auto - Gone

Had this same fault myself 2 years ago, software reload at dealer fixed it for 2+ years... until last month.
A local specialist (not main dealer) reckons its a new instrument pack at £770 inc labour and vat.
I too get system check in progress, and then Steering Column Locked. It doesn't attempt to start.
A battery disconnect for 20 seconds always does the job.

This is getting worse, as now, every time I stop the car the failure occurs (2 weeks ago it was intermittent). That makes me feel it's more a mechanical interaction than a software type issue. But I don't want a new instrument pack if I can avoid (obviously) and especially if that's not the root cause.

Belti, yours all OK now?

I'm desperate to keep my FL2 for a year or so, and hope to save for the Discovery Sport - after they revise the engines towards end of 2015 perhaps.

Hi BJK, did you get a battery isolator fitted? As a short-term it may be a good option for me, but thinking about the mechanics (high power cables) I presume it'll still have to be under the bonnet.

Last week EVERY time I stopped her and took the keys out, she failed to start again without the battery discon. Last Thursday I went to try start it ahead of my schedule, and it failed. Steering lock on message again. So I tried to force the steering wheel not violently, it felt very stiff, but couldn't feel an actual stop. I forced it about a bit. Then I disconnected battery as usual, then started her. Since then she's not missed a start , and started her again this morning, fired up straight away, no messing as she has every single time since wiggling the wheel around with the lock on. That's proof enough for me that this is not a software issue, or likely even the instrument pack (££££) but something to do with the steering lock or the sensor on it. Software fault I would think would be a lot less intermittent and unaffected by a mechanical kick like I've given it.

I'll update again in a few days on any change, but this feels like progress.

Found this company on the net that repairs instrument clusters. Ive never used them before so don't know if they are any good or not. But if you need a cluster repair they might be able to help you?

http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repair/m...eedo-06-on Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Well nearly 2 weeks since I rattled the steering lock, and it hasn't missed a beat since. Think I've saved £770 there!

Me & my big gob. Failing every time I take the key out now, but at least I am sure the steering lock's not coming on, so I can steer the garage in the right direction.

So I'm now convinced this is steering lock related. As per Belti and BJK, when I take key out, if steering lock engages, car will start. If it doesn't, it won't. Have taken to riving steering as I remove key to try help it engage.
On a secondary note, I've replaced the retaining nuts on the battery with wing-nuts. I can get the battery lead off in a few seconds. The offending lead is the standard lead (not the one with some gubbins on it near the terminal). Also, when I remove it, rather than waiting 30 seconds, I ground it to the negative terminal a couple of times. This seems to do the reset instantaneously and it invariably starts.
Guys, love to hear back if steering lock was the fix.
Happy motoring
Andy

This might seem a bit lame but we had a spate of poor starting problems followed by "reduced engine performance" which all went away when the fuel filter was replaced. There were no diagnostic error messages. Fuel filters are only replaced every other service but from now on I will get mine done every time.

Hi Guys I have a 2014 model. I am having the same problem but mine is the keyless type, you know as long is the key in in your pocket etc.. should start. On this model both the speedo and rev counter turn clockwise to their endstops then the car would normally start. I still get this self check? but not starting. Any one else ?

Sounds like the starter motor is playing up.

Oldbutstillgoing wrote:

Hi Guys I have a 2014 model. I am having the same problem but mine is the keyless type, you know as long is the key in in your pocket etc.. should start. On this model both the speedo and rev counter turn clockwise to their endstops then the car would normally start. I still get this self check? but not starting. Any one else ?

Hi guys thanks for the replies. This is my 3rd Freelander. Last 2 were perfect. This is the first one with the new tangled keyless start. Posted here today waiting for Land Rover assist to arrive, again. Tried one last time, same thing. No start. Got a call on my mobile, kept my foot on the brake absent mindedly whist I took the call. About 10 15 seconds later the car started on its own!!!! Home now will be ringing Slough Land Rover tomorrow.

Main dealer assured me it was the steering lock. They took it in last week and replaced it (£487).
Then called to say that they tested the steering lock and it was indeed faulty, but that now the car still won't start and there is a "short-circuit somewhere in the starting circuit" as well as the steering lock problem. Suggestion is my frequent removal of the battery lead could have caused it! Upshot is they said it needs a new instrument pack aswell as the signalling seems confused from it.
So as I'm at wits end with the problem I've given the go-ahead but will be over £1100 lighter for the privilege. http://www.freel2.com/forum/images/smiles/icon_bigcry.gif

My advice, get someone to check the pin conditions on the steering lock at the moment you take the key out (when the lock should actuate). I tried but couldn't find the right tool to remove the steering column cover.

belti wrote:

Hi,

I've been having alot of trouble with my Freelander 2 2007 model the past couple of months. My car is randomly not starting. I insert the key, press the clutch and nothing happens. All the dials and checks start as normal but the car doesnt start. First time I didn't know about it and had it towed to my dealer. He disconnected the battery, waited a bit and then connected again and off it started.

This has been happening on and off for the past 2 months and it's driving me nuts. I took it to the local LR importer and they upgraded the body control and solar sensor software and replaced a couple of relay switches.

This didn't help and the problem has reoccured multiple times. They have now opened a case with LR about possibilty of replacing the Instrument Cluster Control Module. Haven't heard any news so far though.

Another thing I have noticed is that, when I retrieve the key apart from the noise the key makes, there is a switch sound some 2-3 seconds later. When the problem occurs I fail to here this. I was told it could be the steering lock not engaging properly.

Anyone out there encounter a problem similar to mine and if yes what did you do to get it solved?

Thanks in advance.