Hi! Filter side about 70mm, other side 75mm.
Try to find an oil separator with a filter inside, because the condesation will me more efficient. Mine has a steel filter inside, it is actually a fuel filter for a heater. I found it at a plummer store. The empty cannisters you can buy in various car shops and on the net are really not very efficient. I tried one with a little bigger volume because I didn't want to empty it several time a year, but after 2 to 3 weeks it was still dry inside when I checked! Back on with the smaller one with the steel filter inside. After about 3 month now I filled back about 1dl into the engine! And the tubes are dry. (and no pollution on the MAF sensor.)

hey guys just wondering if any one had pics of them blanking egr on 07 model type id like to try it to stop build up of in manifold.. thanks..

Hey guys, after removing the intake manifold as the arm turning the flaps was broken, I ordered the part online and ended up with the new version of the intake manifold which comes with no flaps.
Now my car seems to be blowing air from somewhere else and sounds like a turbo hose issue. However I am thinking that this is a problem becaus of the no flaps and thus the engine not performing as it should. Do I have to blank the EGR? Bare in mind that I replaced the EGR three weeks ago as the EGR was stuck (probably cause by the broken flaps). Also replaced the MAF sensor.
Any advice on how to deal with this?
Thanks

Did you forget to blind off the small hose going to the vacuum regulator on the old manifold...
And did you replace all the gaskets as well? Maybe you have a leak there?

HI FL2Printzern,
The valve going to the vacuum regulator was completely removed. No need for that one, right? Or should I just leave it on and just block the tube?

I did consider a faulty gasket too. I need to take that apart though to check if something has not been done right. My mechanic says it is all in place .
LR says it is probably a gasket as well, but these guys also said that they have never seen an inlet manifold without the swirl flaps and also said that they replaced the vacuum regulator! After checking at the LR parts shop, they discovered that there is no vacuum regulator sold separately, hence they could not have done that! From what I read, the no swirl flaps inlet is the newer version installed in newer models but these guys said that they had never seen one with no swirl flaps! Should I trust their advise going forward?
You can see the picture with the inlet manifolds. The used one is obviously mine and the other one is the one installed.

Wow, so the LR guys haven't seen a manifold without the swirl flaps? Say no more...
I blocked the tube on mine and also sealed the hole in the manifold where the brass rod was - only the inlet hole.
LR stopped using the swirl flap manifold in 2010 as far as I know.
I haven't had any problems with my mod.

Any recommendations on what to do next?
Should I go back to the old with-flaps intake?
Should I just try reinstalling the new intake and see how that goes?
Do I need to blank the EGR if I have no flaps?
Do I remove the vacuum valve completely or do I just block the tube?
Does the ECU need remapping?

All suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Any recommendations on what to do next?

Should I go back to the old with-flaps intake? NO

Should I just try reinstalling the new intake and see how that goes? YES, fix the leak!

Do I need to blank the EGR if I have no flaps? NO

Do I remove the vacuum valve completely or do I just block the tube? Just block is OK.

Does the ECU need remapping? NO

I agree, just remove flaps, everything else remains untouched. I left the vacuum connected to the diaphragm thingy instead of plugging tube but either way works providing the actuator rod is missing. Car running identically to before, same mpg, smoothness etc.

Regards Tony

FL2Printzern wrote:

Wow, so the LR guys haven't seen a manifold without the swirl flaps? Say no more...
I blocked the tube on mine and also sealed the hole in the manifold where the brass rod was - only the inlet hole.
LR stopped using the swirl flap manifold in 2010 as far as I know.
I haven't had any problems with my mod.

Not noticed any hesitation and the temperature has been above 18C this year, even in North Wales! The 2010 models onwards are more economical than my 2007 model perhaps the mixture is too lean?

Quick update guys.

I contacted the parts supplier and explained the problem and they sent me the intake with the flaps. So now my car has the swirl flaps again with a vacuum valve that works. But the intermittent problem of lag/loss of power still persists. The car revs up to 4000 but it feels like it is being held back. Do not know what causes it. The problem was more accute before the replacements of the EGR valve, the MAF sensor and the intake manifold but the problem is still there! Any suggestions of what might be causing it? Not sure if it is the gearbox (it is an automatic) or something else. I will drive it around for a while and hope for a fault to be recorded so that Land Rover can sort this one out.

blocked exhaust?

Thanks for the tips guys.

I replaced the swirl flaps for non-swirl flaps intake manifold over 6 months ago. It has been a really good improvement. No change to fuel economy has been noticed. It is much smoother to drive from low revs through to motorway driving.

Drives like a dream much improved from low rev acceleration and now no risk of swirl flap failure and engine damage. Brilliant !

Recommend similar owners clean the EGR value for older cars for truly excellent and improved performance !


Freelander 2 GS 2.2 TD4
56 plate - 74k miles

is there possibility to lock the swirl flaps open without take out the intake manifold?