just done my first oil and filter change myself was not too hard a job,pair of ramps and the 27mm ratchet spanner realy helps.i now know its filter has been changed and the correct oil was put in.air filter and pollen filter also changed .

Now try the really good fun job.
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Fit a set of new glowplugs!!!
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That will tax anybodies dexterity and patience.
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Kind regards from Fred
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I've just done my second oil and filter change. After the first I vowed to get a 27mm ratchet spanner. I didn't so I ended cutting down a 27mm spanner and took the oil filter off 1/16 of a turn at a time. I had the luxury of a vehicle hoist to do it on but my arm still felt like it was going to drop off!  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

I'm puzzled about using a hoist. I just lean over the front and undo and take the filter out the top. First time around I bent the lug of cable tag on the oil cooler block to leave enough room to lift the filter out the top.
I first lie on an old carpet to reach under to remove the undertray and undo the sump plug. Only special thing I do is use a pipe cleaner as a wick to draw the oil out that's left in the sump below the top of threaded plug insert.
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Kind regards from Fred
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Both times I've removed the turbo boost pipe to get access to the filter and did it from underneath. Don't think I could even touch the filter from above. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

No need to remove the turbo pipe, I did have to turn a top turbo hose clip first time 1/4 turn to put the worm screw out of the way. The only other things I do is to detach and remove the top water hose angle support bracket that clips to the radiator and remove the electric module for the cooling fans switching to allow your arm down the front.
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When I fitted my replacement engine I remember the turbo pipes / hoses being a b***r to refit so I don't envy you doing it from the bottom.
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May I kindly suggest you try the top way next time. I use a 27 socket on a very long 1/2" drive to 'break the stiction' of the fixed filter then just use the 27 ratchet. When refitting the new filter smear the 'o' ring with oil and it all goes together easy.
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Best of luck for next time and kind regards from Fred
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

I swore this time that I will definitely get a 27mm ratchet spanner by this time next year! And yes, refitting that plastic turbo pipe into both rubber ends was a right git!  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Another tip.
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If you havnt bought a new sump plug washer then anneal it to soften.
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The washer is copper; clean with wire wool or a kitchen sponge that has the green abrasive side. Heat the washer to cherry red either on the gas hob or blowtorch and whilst glowing immediately drop into a mug of cold water then light abrade again.
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Copper washer is now soft and will seal better, it goes hard again shortly by natural action.
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Kind regards from Fred
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quite easy from under car with 27mm flexi head spanner(£12) had no probs at all.

fredastaire wrote:

I'm puzzled about using a hoist. I just lean over the front and undo and take the filter out the top. First time around I bent the lug of cable tag on the oil cooler block to leave enough room to lift the filter out the top.
I first lie on an old carpet to reach under to remove the undertray and undo the sump plug. Only special thing I do is use a pipe cleaner as a wick to draw the oil out that's left in the sump below the top of threaded plug insert.
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Kind regards from Fred
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The I structions you refer to are definitely not our UK market 2.2 Peugeot / Citroen / Ford diesel which we have here.
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Our oil filters are in a daft position and require dexterity and patience and when you've done it once you will wonder what the fuss is about.
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Now who can remember changing the filter on a 1960's minivan?? It makes the Freelie look easy!
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Kind regards from Fred.
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Looking at it again, it looks like the petrol engine. The petrol engine oil filter is easy to change by the looks of it. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Or if you haven't got a 27mm socket have a look through Grandad's old toolbox (or ebay) for a
1 1/16 AF
or 5/16 Wworth
or 11/16 BSF

Just wanted to report that I did my first (for me) oil change yesterday and found it remarkably easy - all done in less than an hour, including removing and replacing the undertray.

I did everything from underneath, and found no problem at all removing the oil filter (using a 27mm flexi-head ratchet spanner, which is essential) and replacing it. I didn't have to jack the front of the car up, not did I move any pipes.

Compared with some other engines I've done this was amongst the easiest, and by far the cleanest - the clever design of the oil filter canister means that only a very small amount of oil gets spilled (compared with, say, my Defender 300tdi where I invariably spilled the entire contents of the oil filter over the driveway as I tried to extricate it).

It has to be said, though, that I do have relatively small hands, so fiddling with the spanner and getting the filter in and out was no problem for me.

thanks Tim, makes me look forward to doing mine soon !!

btw where did you buy your oil/filter/sump washer ?

Iain