My 75,000 mile 07 GS has suffered from a background noise, like a dry bearing or transmission drone, for the past few months without really getting any worse. The Haldex had been replaced under warranty at about 30,000 miles so I guessed that it wasn't going to be that.
Then I decided to check the wheels after an hours drive and found the rear n/s wheel quite warm, and the disc very warm, well hot actually! Does this suggest that the brakes are binding or is there a bearing of some sort behind this?

Thanks.

It could be a bearing, but it's more likely to be the handbrake binding. The handbrake is a drum brake, built in to the rear discs but operating separately, and seizing and binding is a common problem on the FL.

Thanks pab, but I had the handbrake fixed recently and the noise was just the same afterwards. What type of bearing is on the rear wheels/axle? Thanks

Edit: Ok, I've now read up about rear diff pinion bearings and rear n/s wheel bearing problems. Looks like a trip to the dealers.

The thing is after an hours drive the wheel may well be warm and the disc would probably be hot anyway?

Oldie wrote:

Thanks pab, but I had the handbrake fixed recently and the noise was just the same afterwards. What type of bearing is on the rear wheels/axle? Thanks

Edit: Ok, I've now read up about rear diff pinion bearings and rear n/s wheel bearing problems. Looks like a trip to the dealers.

I had a bit of a 'wobble' on my one. http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic14837.html Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

I had the rear shoes sieze (a couple of times!) and it does make that grinding, bearing type metal on metal noise when hot.

I had to have the rear discs, pads and shoes replaced on my GS as the drum inside the disc for the handbrake had rusted up. It seems that as the handbrake is only applied when stationary it doesn't clear the rust which then builds up.

After replacement I used to put the handbrake on a little when going downhill in a queue to try and keep it clear. I can't do that now as I have an electronic brake - either on or off.

Does anyone know if the electronic brake still works in the same way on shoes in the rear disc or is it a transmission brake? GONE - '07 TD4 GS manual Zermatt Silver
LONG GONE - '55 Norton Dominator 99 SS cafe racer

I would look at the handbrake mechanism
There is a 'expander' linkage that can seize. I used copper slip on the pivot and thought it was free enough but still got hot drum/disc.
In the end I bought two new expanders and the handbrake has never been better.

Refer to step 16 of this http://www.atnet.co.uk/freelander-2-replac...discs.html
It's most important.
Hopefully this should cure your problem  Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Iliacus, I believe MY2013 uses an electric actuator operating on the main pads and discs. No shoes/drum. A temp sensor measures and reapplies brake pressure on the pads/discs after stopping to ensure the brakes remain applied as they cool after driving. Some may recall a spate of cars rolling down hill after the car had been parked up, the handbrake sharing the main disc/pads, contracting and pressure dropping as they cool. 2016 BMW X3 30d SE in red
MY2013 SD4 XS Firenze Red, 19" 10 spoke contrast paint wheels, Signature Strips, Grand Black Lacquer trim, Cold Climate Pack - gone!
2007 TD4 S Stornoway Grey - gone!

Well, ended up that I had two issues.

Firstly, the rear pads were, in fact, binding so that got fixed.

Secondly, it looks like there has been some wear in the gearbox. Fresh oil seems to have lessened the background noise and the mechanic said that the gearbox might need some work, probably when the car is due a new clutch. Told to just drive it as normal as nothing is going to snap.

Took the decision to sell the Freelander as I wasn't happy about taking the car on my regular trips to Europe. It has served me well though, over 7 years in fact, and is one of the best vehicles that I've owned (inc two Mercs, two Audis, two Beemers and a Disco).

It had 76k on the clocks and still had the original clutch. The only issue I had was a replacement Haldex done under warranty many moons ago.

Trade in value was £6800.

I replaced it with the new shape Qashqai (my pal gets friends & family discount) which turns out to be a very decent vehicle - certainly no Land Rover but it's relatively inexpensive and nice to drive. So, it's bye for now although I'll be keeping tabs on the Freelander replacement.

Resurrecting an old thread rather than starting a new one.

Coming home last night I got a very high pitched noise from rear near-side wheel and it was hot when I got home. Sounds like brake but I guess it could be bearing. Not the best of weather this weekend to be taking it apart on the driveway but it needs to be driveable over the Christmas/New Year period.

Is there any way to tell from the pitch of the noise whether I should be expecting brake or bearing to be the problem?

Noise stops on light application of brakes, which I hope suggests brake issue is more likely, but I guess braking could also affect bearing squeak.

Any thoughts would be appreciated! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Probably the brake so do not leave it long to cook the bearings. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Could be the bearing. Applying the brake will take the load off of the bearing. I’d start with stripping the pads out, lubing and refitting first. See if you can feel any play at the bearing when it’s jacked up. May be easier to feel if you put the wheel back on when the pads are out and rock it top and bottom. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.