Hi Guys,

Has anyone replaced their discs and pads themselves? Did they come with new bolts for the calipers as the LR manual suggests new bolt fitment. If not does anyone know where to find some?

In the past I've always just fitted the same ones again, now trying to do it "by the book".

Cheers!

Not really the answer you are looking for, but helpful pictures;

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/displayimag...&pos=1

or


https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11760/front.doc

When refitting the bolts apply some thread sealant (ie Locktite). That is what the dealers do. 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Wizking: I've already had a look through your pics! Thanks for uploading them, it's always handy to see it on the vehicle you will be working on, I've changed quite a few discs and pads but never on a freelander yet.

Dunkley: I'll fish out the Loctite! I've never fitted new bolts before but only ever worked on transit vans and Nissan pick ups.

Thanks for your replies!

I've just done discs/pads.
The pads came with new caliper bolts.
Before you begin anything, it might be a good idea to remove the rear disc first to inspect the handbrake shoes. Mine were falling apart and the adjuster/pivot need a good greasing. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Thanks for the tip!

The bolts that come with the pads are the ones that fix the callipers to the calliper bracket. LR say you should also replace the bolts that fix the calliper bracket to the hub. These are the ones that LR dealer workshops never replace. I know this because I asked for new ones at the dealer parts dept. and was told they don't keep them as the workshop have never asked for any. They just use the old bolts and Loctite...as now do I! John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Well as I am from the old school I take a different approach. I usually buy a car about three years old and keep it a number of years so I take corrosion in mind as I want to be able to take the calliper off again in future years. If you just use the original bolt dry it will probably rust and be a fight to undo, if you add thread sealer to an old bolt it will still rust where the threadlock missed. So, the correct way is new bolts which are plated or go the old fashioned way; use copperslip grease liberally applied into the hole and on the threads AND then put a locking washer under the head and torque tighten .
.
I've had cars from brand new until 12 years old, serviced them yearly; always been able to undo the caliper bolts and never had any found slack or loose.
.
Hope this helps, kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

I did the same as JST as I couldn't get the bolts that hold the calliper in position either. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Thanks for the replies guys!