Fuel Filter

The dealer claims these cars dont have fuel filters, or if they do its some sort of inbuilt filter in the pump which im assuming isnt just a case of swapping it out without replacing a $1k fuel pump. Mine is petrol not diesel if that helps

the pump is most likely in the tank and there will be a micro fine filter before the pump. I would look at removing the tank sender unit and checking the pick up filter & pump.

2nd I would fit an inline pressure gauge to monitor the fuel pressure to see what happen when you loose power,
if it rises high it could be a regulator, if it drops the pump could be lazy but I would check the current draw on the pump when the pressure drops as I have seen faulty wiring normally connectors in a loom becoming high resistance.

I would also check for sure whether there is an inline filter fitted as this would be the most likely cause !
I don't have access to topix to check.

are you sure the quote you have a for a pump is a petrol pump or a HP diesel pump ? normally petrol pumps are around £200 ish ! Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

The dealer quoted $1150 AUD for the pump plus fitting, another workshop quoted $1200 fitted, another quoted $800 fitted. I live in Australia unfortunately just about everyone in this country is a rip off, trying to find someone whose honest and isnt looking to overcharge for one job is about impossible here

Ive taken it to 3 or 4 different "land rover specialists" plus a dealership and no one can really tell me anything apart from "its a fuel problem".

Tossing up whether to just sell it or bother trying to get it fixed.

when ever I used to have a fuel pump that was more than £150 quid i used to call Ken at the following

Kmi Petrol Injection Engineers
Category: Automotive [Edit]
Unit 2a Farm La Trading Estate
Farm Lane
London SW6 1QJ
Areas: Fulham Broadway, West Brompton
020 7385 7138

They always managed to match a fuel pump or an after market that would fit - as quite often with the later vehicles the tank sender unit is an all in one kit so they used to make a pump that could be fitted for a fraction of the price. Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

Im in Australia

After trying a dozen different workshops finally found one that is willing to replace it for close to half what anyone else has quoted me so getting the pump replaced in a few days and i'll see how I go. If it still plays up has anyone got any ideas what I could replace next for a low fuel pressure problem? I think I read somewhere theres a fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail is this true.

Hi
I am aware you live in Australia and parts can be sent !

I certainly wouldn't replace the pump without fuel pressure checks and pump current draw to establish the cause first !

As I had already suggested you should have a fuel pressure gauge fitted inline and I used to mount the gauge to the windscreen and drive until an issue appeared.

I had an Omega once that used to falter after 470 miles ( it was an Airport limo ) so ended up wiring tiny bulbs to all the scources likes fuel pump and coil pack etc etc and after 466 miles one night one of the bulbs I had fitted was flickering and it was the supply feed to the coil ! it was getting a high resistance when hot ! so rewired the coil wiring from ECU to coil and job sorted , the guy had spent 1000's with another garage trying to get the fault fixed and they were just guessing ! no good for anyone  Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

I wish I had a mechanic with your interest and intelligence over here old geezer, you certainly know what your talking about but unfortunately I have to deal with the hand ive got. Having visited half a dozen different land rover workshops in my city none can give me a direct answer, the dealer was the most difficult and least talkative about it. Even if the dealer knew it was only a cheap sensor they were trying to charge me $1500 for fuel pump replacement first

Half of the others diagnostic tools wouldnt even show any codes up, the one workshop I did find that could least find something said all it come up with was "low fuel pressure fault" but again couldnt tell me what part it was that was playing up as the car was fine at the time.

90% of the time the cars fine, ive towed a trailer with load for over an hour and had no issues, then other days ive had just the car lose fuel pressure after 45mins with no trailer on and taking it easy. It would probably be easier if whatever is the cause just itself so someone could at least pinpoint it, but when anyone has checked it fuel pressure etc has been fine.

As OG says, don't go to the expense of a pump until you have proved the fuel supply. It could easily be debris in the fuel tank or fuel line that moves about with movement of the car. Many years ago I had a similar problem with a carburettor car and found straw in the fuel pipe!
Trace the fuel supply with a "fine tooth comb", from looking into the tank all the way up to the engine pump inlet. There has to be a filter in there somewhere. Has NO-ONE got Topix access for an i6 for info?

BTW, your ID shows a TD4 but I guess it is an i6 I see you fixed it  10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Last edited by dunkley201 on 10th Oct 2013 6:12 pm. Edited 1 time in total

in line fuel pressure gauge test kit $55.00 in australia

http://www.myshopping.com.au/ZM--123516501...0kpa_A5303

I would plumb one of these in first and just run the hose under the back of the bonnet and attach the gauge to the windscreen wiper as long as it doesn't rain !, if it starts to splutter you can view what the gauge is doing whilst your driving.

As many of us have mentioned the sender unit need commin out the tank and making sure the pick up is clean, The old Ford XR3i's used to split a line inside the tank and it used too froth the fuel up so badly that once it was all like Cola they used to splutter and loose power just because a pipe used to leak inside the tank !

this is what an intank pump can look like & its all the components that can make it expensive but i used to take them apart and just match up a pump to fit, but first used to check all the internal hoses and connections etc

[/URL][/img] Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

Tried a new fuel pump and car still plays up on long trips.

From everything else ive read online people have had the same symptoms with a faulty cam sensor so ive just replaced that today.

As mentioned before the only time the car seems to play up is on long trips im guessing whichever faulty sensor doesnt like heat. Last time it played up I had a fully loaded car towing the ski and was 46deg outside, the engine light stayed on this time whereas before it had just gone off after turning the car off. My mechanic still couldnt tell me exactly what was causing it though.

When the car was playing up I pulled up in some shade to try let the car cool down abit and the engine bay was like a furnace with the heat outside that day.

Last time took it to the mechanics I got a glimpse of a few codes that came up, there were misfires, fuel pressure too high, fuel pressure too low and one cam sensor fault (but it wasnt 335 or 336 i dont think) would a faulty cam sensor cause misfires and other errors? im assuming the misfires are only when the car is playing up as it drives fine otherwise.

Three thoughts - 1, if you're paying someone to read the codes they should at least give you a printout of them! You may be able to get more info online or on here (although I'm afraid as most of us run diesels we may not be much help).
2, with the engine getting hot, I wonder if there is a chance of a vapour lock in the fuel system. I'm not familiar with modern petrol engines and it may be that the pressure nowadays rules that out, but it's common in older cars.
3. Could it be some electrical component that's damaged with say a crack opening up when it gets hot? I've had this happen with a spark plug in the past and it caused serious misfiring.
Sorry these are all just off the top of my head but may be worth considering if you can't find anything else.

Hi, I found this thread via Google. I'm having the exact same issue on my FL2, it's been going on for over a year now and after several trips to dealers and thousands of $ nothing has changed. I am personally very off with Landrover Australia and their lack of customer service. They are quite happy to keep charging me for 'fixes' but won't guarantee the problem is resolved, only their workmanship / parts on actual work done. I have tried different dealers hoping one of them has a decent mechanic but it seems they are all incompetent.

The first time I took it in with this issue I told them I suspected the fuel pump and they not surprisingly came back saying it was the fuel pump even though they could offer no proof that it was in fact faulty - they claim there were no fault codes logged relating to the overheat/limp/stall in hot weather. They quoted over $1500 for this with no guarantee it would resolve the problem so of course I declined. They replaced some sensor (I'll have to check what is was) but not long after the car stalled again.

Most recently, I slightly different symptom presented itself, this time while idling in traffic on a hot day, the temp gauge would suddenly and rapidly climb to max and the car would stall. At other times, if this happened (but before it died) if I started moving again it would just as quickly come down to normal again. I took it back to the dealer (again) and asked if they had checked the thermostat and radiator. Not surprisingly (again), they came back saying the radiator fan wasn't working (one would've thought they'd check this first given it is overheating!).

Anyway, it seems that the temperature gauge rising rapidly while standing has been solved as it hasn't occurred again, however the car still stalls on hot days with the 'engine performance reduced' message being displayed when trying to restart. when this occurs the temperature gauge still reads normal so my guess is that this is either an electrical issue (sensors) or, in fact, the fuel flow/pump.

Can anyone please help? I am at wits end with this car and am considering just driving it into the bay just to be rid of the damn thing!

ImmortalPL did you managed to get your problem sorted out?

From this thread there are two possible solutions:

1. Install fuel pressure gauge. How would I go about doing this?
2. Replace the crank/cam? position sensor. Can I do this myself?

I really can't spend anymore on this as the last time I checked the trade in value was only $10k and so far I am close to having spent that much trying to get it fixed.

Thanks for the PM but I can't reply due to less than 3 posts (really?)

I don't have a towbar - I wanted to get one fitted by they wanted to charge me the earth for it (over $1500 if I remember). I'm also planning on never touching Land Rover again in my life! Sure, the car is 7 years old but it only has 100,000 on the clock - it's not the car it's the customer service and the unbelievable 'don't care - just give us money' attitude. They wouldn't even fix the car head unit as its throwing a 'deck error' message, saying it's not something they do and I need to take it elsewhere as they suspect a CD is jammed in there, they didn't even put everything back together properly and broke one of the clips on the air vents in the process.

I was just hoping, given that your issue is exactly the same as mine, that I could identify it as either the fuel pump or CKP, I suppose as a last resort I could try replace the CKP & reluctor ring as I may be able to do that myself (I think). I did mention the CKP to them last time and they said it was 'OK' - no idea how they tested it given that it has to be a hot day in order to play up.

Edit:
I checked topix and under the CKP sensor it states:

"The ECM monitors the sensor for correct function and can diagnose and store fault codes for sensor faults. These can be retrieved using a Land Rover approved diagnostic system."

If I'm not getting any error codes (so they say) it may be the reluctor ring as you mentioned

Edit2:
Looks the reluctor ring is not an easy component to replace...

Any further updates on this, anyone? Mine did the same last summer - hesitated than stalled after driving 5 hours in +30 degree weather, and I could restart it 10 minutes later after letting it cool down. No repairs were done and dealer was unable to pinpoint the issue. Now, just today, same thing happened after a 2 hour drive in the heat.

Judging as its been a year since the last problem and I've made no fixes, and that its been occurring in similar conditions (long highway drive in warm weather), I'm assuming it's sensor-related or something minor, but I would really appreciate some guidance if anyone has found the fix for this! It's a minor issue, but it would be really nice to be able to trust the car on long trips again!

Cheers