No the fan speed controller is under the bonnet and controls the running of the cooling fan and switches then on & off & and various speeds as required to cool the air con condensor & the radiator as conditions dictate

Is it a sqare box at the top rear of radiator? If so, then yes that has been replaced along with some pipework. They havent identified the problem they simply replaced anything that could have possibly been to do with it!

On the invoice it states "The cooling system has been rectified & is working satisfactorily during our testing. Incase over heating persists, more investigation will be required including removal of cylinder head". They really think they are dealing with a blank cheque!

Thanks for the help and advice oldgeezer

GaryLRC
Hopefully yours is sorted. If AC stops when you are in traffic only its due to either the cooling fans not cooling the condenser so the gas pressure is exceeding its upper limits & the pressure switch shuts the AC off or the engine temp is getting high & most cars have a system for cutting the AC if the coolant temp is excessive ! this is because AC makes an engine run hotter due to the heat from the condenser.
However if you continue to suffer with engine temp running high , see what happens if you turn your heater on full heat and fan at max speed ! if the coolant temp then drops back quickly this would suggest an in-efficient radiator ! & your heater matrix is drawing of the heat that the radiator should be doing !
Crossflow rads are notorious for clogging at quite a young age !
I would always get a rad flow tested before removing a cylinder head unless exhaust gases can be traced in the water.

Hi gentlemen,

I have a high mileage 2007 Si6 3.2 Petrol and experienced the same symptoms as Garyc.LR2. IE Air con cutting out when stopped and idling, engine dangerously hot if idling/low speed driving.
Through a lot of reading and a process of elimination and deduction I found the problem. The radiator cooling fan (which is supposed to be a non servicable part) was worn out. By worn out I mean the carbon brushes in the electric motor were quite literally worn down to nothing. As spare parts are not available usually this means forking out the money for a new unit. However I managed to pull mine apart and was able to source some new carbon brushes of a similar size that needed a little sanding down to fit. Once fitted and back together the whole exercise ended up costing me just under $20 Australian-and my time.

To get to the fan is a painful job as the front bumper, headlights, assorted plastic bits, and radiator all have to come off the car. With some careful manouvering however the air con pipes and radiator pipes can all be left intact with no loss of the expensive fluids.

I regret that I didn't document the proceedure with some photographs But I am NOT going back in there unless I absolutely have to

As a side note, my starter motor also packed up the week before the fan did. Cause? Worn carbon brushes....same as the fan. I didn't repair that one as I found a reasonably priced one in the UK that was delivered to my door in Australia in 3 days flat 210 gbp delivered.

Good on you Richard, well done! Thanks for sharing your findings re the bushes which I am sure will help other in the future.

I have had the starter motor problem (600gbp), the fuel pump (warranty:)), the ac/radiator (550 gbp) and a new top end engine rebuild which was required due to a warped shaft that connects to the alternator of the i6 and was preventing the alternator from charging the battery (so I am informed) - (warranty thankfully, but have a receipt from Landrover FoC to customer 3200 gbp!!!).

My car has almost 200k km on the clock after being used by previous owner to commute daily between Abu Dhabi & Dubai but it really does drive as new still. Long may it continue as LR UAE charge way over the odds!