Here you have photo of a new one. As you see all names are in the casting. This EGR valve is for a MY 2007 FL2 and I know they change small bits and pieces from time to time. I think it is a bit different on a newer car, don't know exactly when they changed it first time. (I don't use this anyway - It is almost like in your pants to keep warm! Ok for some time, but after a while you got a bigger problem, but all this depend on your driving pattern and where you live of course. Driving to and from the kindergarten in Noway in wintertime is not the same as flooring the pedal on a german motorway! (Where the EGR would be closed anyway)

Thanks for the pictures, interesting that it's more rust that affected it than being bunged up with soot. I pulled off the pipe at the inlet end and the soot/oil was wet and sticky, not dry looking like your picture.

I'm now not going to bother with a clean and refit, and just fit a new part.

It was asked earlier why I think I have EGR issues:

it has thrown numerous P0486 errors with the engine light. This is a EGR sensor B error apparently. It also struggles to start, I think this is a result of air getting into the eninge via th exhaust on start up rather than through the MAF, so it's metering wrong (and or drawing back already burnt air or over fuelled air)

On occasion it has cleared errors mid drive, but then trying some wide throttle acceleratins, the engine has died and auto restarted. Wide throttle is a close down the EGR state, which then tryin to reopen is throwing errors.


Other than that, the run runs sweet with no missing, so I think fuel delivery, timing etc is ok.

did you take it off yourself? is it a diy job or specialist? did you have to drain coolant system or can it be done without doing this,maybe clamp the hoses?

Pete, I plan on draining coolant. It's tight access and likely difficult to clamp as a result.

I have a copy of the workshop manual covering the EGR removal and on the face of it, it's a case of

Undo heated O2 sensor (???? Nt sure about that bit personally-need to check)
Drain coolant,
Undo coolant pipes.
Remove turbo heat shield (bolts)
Undo pipes off EGR
Undo EGR from engine block


At first glance it looks a combination of 8, 10mm nuts and bolt and some Allen key bolt heads.

Email me about the workshop file covering e EGR if you want more

First of all, the rust on my old EGR is because the front of the car had dipped the whole nose in seawater - up to the steering wheel. I replaced everything in the engine compartment and inside the car with parts from a donor car. Because the EGR valve was so hard to reach I did not replace it. After a couple of month it started to stick with DTC's and engine light.
I do not think you have a similar problem and I also believe you do not need to take off the valve to clean it. I think you are vasting your time, but of course I might be wrong here...
There are other threads in here on how to blind the EGR tube.

putting a blanking plate over the tube would physically solve part of the problem, but wouldn't fix the electronic side of things, and without fixing them, the car will remain in its reduced engine performance mode.

As far as I can tell from reading on the web, part of the on-going self testing of the EGR system is that the inlet sensors sense for the difference in pressure change/airflow when the EGR opens up. Also modern EGR valves have a position sensor in them, that should be feeding back to the ECU the current position of the valve which the ECU compares against the demand position its asking for.

Using a plate to blank the tube will prevent dirty air coming back into the engine, which is fine. However, it will also mean that the inlet sensors will not see the pressure change that expect to see. A blanking plate will not solve a sticking valve error either, if the valve is sticking then the ECU will see that and throw an error as well.

So at the moment, i have to fix the EGR one way or another. As far as I can tell, there is no fully complete solution to EGR blanking on the engine at the moment. It would need a re-map of the ECU

I have put my EGR tables to zero. (called hysteresis maps) Maybe this is worth trying for you too? What kind of diag equipment do you have access to? The only tool I know about that can read and write to your ECU is KessV2 and Powerpro from Alientech. Do you have IDS/SSD? What year and model is your car?

At the moment, I don't have anything more than a basic OBD2 setup for the freelander. I had a Rovacom unit for my range rovers, but not bothered getting anything yet for the freelander.

I don't really know where to start looking either ... I'd want a system that can change my halogen light setting to xenon setting too. ( but thats a different thread )

It is possible to replace the EGR sensor on the valve without replacing the whole walve, but not the small motor.
Without a proper OBD2 tester this can be a challenge. You should consider buying a cheep china clone (about 50 quid) That way you can do it all: FW updates, calibrations, exact diag hopefully. Just google JLR Mongoose and you will have a dusin of pushers to choose from.

I have a 2010 model ( facelift front ). Would it matter which JLR Mongoose version I got ? the one I was looking at is version V134

This is the newest one sold from China now. You can use V135 and v136 on it as well, (and you can be connected to the Internet.) but don't expect this to last forever, because of all the cloning from China this product is on it's way out I think. Remember clean istall of Eng XP3 Pro with all updates. Java 6 Update 26. Stop Java update. And the CD will probably be infected with virus. Keep it away from other computers and try to clean it after installation! Good Luck!

Thought I would resurrect this thread.

At this point, I've not replaced the EGR ... not long after I put the thread up, the error cleared itself for a while, so I've just been running the car as normal. The weather was too bad anyhow. Trouble is, the error is back and the car showing reduced engine performance. EGR sensor B circuit.

Anyhows, I have the new EGR on the desk and it looks like the one thats fitted to the car ... which is fine.

I've done some preliminary work to gain access to the rear of the engine by taking the intermediate bulkhead off. Its going to be a tight effort to get at some of the bolt heads down in there, but should be do-able I hope.

BUT

Having had a look at the EGR cooler side, things are a little different. On the copy of the workshop manual I have, and the part catalogue pictures, it just shows the pipe from the exhaust bending up and round into the EGR cooler, basically a normal pipe attached.

As per this picture where the EGR cooler is the rectangle part top left...




On mine though, just where the pipe meets the cooler (top arrow) there is a vacuum operated valve controlling what must be a flap inside the tube just at that join. As anyone seen anything like that before? The vacuum controller sits just above the EGR cooler and has a control arm running across that pulls on a spring loaded lever.

There is a pipe that then runs over the top of the engine and goes into a device next to the inlet manifold area.

Its almost like the whole EGR system is double valved???

Yes, you have on your desk the new, after MY2010, EGR cooler.

Thanks Alex, I've only bought a new EGR valve and not cooler as I had assumed that the only part that valved any of the exhaust flow was the EGR valve side ( and nothing on the cooler side ). So this leads me to another question though ...

I'll need to plug the SDD back in and read the codes, but the DTC codes I've remember in the past seem came back as EGR Sensor B circuit errors. To me that would imply that there is an 'A' circuit as well.

Both the EGR valve, and the cooler vacuum valve seem to have sensors on them to read their positions. Its a reasonable assumption to think that one will be the A circuit, and the other the B circuit.

do you know which is which?

it may well be that the B-circuit is for the cooler valve side, and if so, it will have been pointless me buying a new EGR ?

All that being said, I can easily move the valve arm on the cooler with no restriction

I believe the electrical motor has some position sensors on them. Those thrown for you the errors as you don't have the new EGR ensemble.

To be honest, I don't know which is A and B. But because of the above, it's natural to assume that B is on the motor.

Replace the valve side and go with your old cooler. I suppose the connector is the same.

Or I didn't understand correctly?
In the end, on your car, do you have the new EGR with a valve on the cooler side or not? If not, the above is true. Just replace the motor side.