Hi,

Over the last month we have increasingly experiencing what I suspect is clutch slip from our FL2, typically this has been when accelerating in 4th or 5th gear to join a dual carriageway/motorway. The revs will increase around 300-400 rpm them drop back, no increase in acceleration is felt.

Car is a 2010 10 plate TD4e, approx 25k on the clock. From reading other topics I have seen that others have had the clutch and a self adjust mechanism replaced under warranty. Unfortunately the car is now out of its 3yr warranty.
Before I ring our Local LR garage, has anyone successfully had this replaced FOC outside the normal warranty cover? any tips in how to do this?

Many Thanks

Regards

Anthony

Assuming that the car has been serviced on schedule during its warranty period I think you will find that Land Rover will be very accommodating. I would get it to the dealer as soon as possible. If I understand correctly and it is only a month to of date I think they will look after you well.

Contact Mike@LR on here, explain it all to him. I had some goodwill from my local dealer for a faulty door latch when my FL2 was just a couple of months out of warranty. Mike was very helpful and will tell you the best course of action to take. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

I too have this problem and first noticed it when mine was one month out of warranty and 27k on the clock back in April.
At first i thought it was the self adjusting mechanism sorting itself out as the problem did not seem to happen on every occasion, but back in October the cruise control starting kicking out due to the revs rising. I now see it appears to be a common problem.
Do we know if LR have made any design or supplier changes to fix this problem as i cannot see the point in changing like for like if the new parts will fail in the same way? It seems the pressure plate may not be supplying enough pressure to handle the peak torque at 2k rpm and that allows the plate to slip and glaze.
Personally i would consider an engine re-map to reduce my torque curve a shade as the current performance is more than adequate for my usage. Do we know if this is possible, either from LR dealers or an Indy?
Nigel

I have had this happen twice on my 57 plate FL2 with exactly the symptoms you describe.
If you look back there are previous threads on this issue. The first time 22,000 miles I had the clutch and flywheel replaced under warranty, but then it happened again at 45,000 miles (with the car then 4 years old) and I had to pay myself.
The car has 67,000 miles now so I am hoping I do not get a third repeat.
There seems to be a fair amount of owners with these symptoms but I do not think LR accepted there was an issue, although I stand to be corrected on that.

Unfortunately my car also started with the slipping clutch issue this weekend. Its a 2008 and done 41,000. At present the slipping only occurs for a few seconds at motorways speeds in 5th or 6th so I'll see how it goes. Not a good time of year to be paying out for a new clutch!

Can anyone give a rough guide as to how fast things deteriorate once the slipping starts? Also has anyone had any success cleaning and freeing the clutch self adjuster as I don't think the clutch plates will be worn out. I suspect that unless you did this yourself the labour costs would mean that replacing the clutch would be the wisest option.

I modified my driving in the knowledge that i might get slippage in 5th or 6th gear if i accelerate hard from 2k RPM. By taking it easy in that rev range i am now at 34.5k miles and hopefully will be able to do many more miles before changing the clutch components and by then there might be some better parts available.
I did a quick look on the Peugeot 407 forums (same engine) and they seem to be having the same problems.
I still think an engine remap to drop the torque a shade would solve the problem.
Nigel