dpcwright wrote:

I hate to be in any way negative but if your tool has been made from aluminium as it looks like in the picture it will probably not withstand the torque required to undo the flange nut - in my experience this is quite tight. My usual trick is to use the bolts in place in the flange and a steel bar between then to hold the flange from turning - so no special tools are needed.

Thanks very much, I appreciate your input. I've never done this before and welcome any suggestions. If possible I'd like to avoid a situation where half way through the project I discover that I don't have the right gear. I'll keep the steel bar on standby....

Alex, I purchased the flange removing tool. Here it's called "the gear puller". I got the one with three prongs and it opens up to 100mm. The flange is 90mm. It should fit.

Does anyone have any idea what size nut I can expect to find holding the flange, so I can make sure I have the right socket ready?

Also today I attempted to undo the top up bolt/plug. Again, just to make sure there are no surprises on the day. I couldn't get the socket on it due to proximity to the support braket. Size 13 ring spanner fits just fine - but i managed to bend the spanner. The bolt didn't even move. I hope that was due to poor quality of the spanner and nothing to do with the plug. But it got me thinking, what would happen if I snap the bolt off!?

As always, I am very open to suggestions. MY10 TD4 SE Auto

I managed to get the fill plug undone. Took a sample of the oil using a syringe to see how dirty it was. To my surprise it looked brand new. A lovely clear fluid with a shade of gold. Reminds me of cooking oil. So now I'm having second thoughts about touching it
The vehicle has done 70000km (inc 1x LR experience day, 2 x sand driving days).

Click image to enlarge

Please can a member who has changed Haldex oil tell us what colour their oil was?
.
Could the filters still be blocking up? Maybe the friction grinding dust doesn't suspend in the oil?
Kind regards from Fred 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

impact wrote:

To my surprise it looked brand new. A lovely clear fluid with a shade of gold. Reminds me of cooking oil. So now I'm having second thoughts about touching it

The friction material suspends in oil and if this is the color, then, by all means, let it be...

Still, very hard to believe that after 70.000 km, with no oil change, the oil to have that brand new color....

The man in the video is using Jet A1 to clean the parts! MY10 TD4 SE Auto

Quote:

Please can a member who has changed Haldex oil tell us what colour their oil was?

Thank you!

alex_pescaru wrote:

impact wrote:

To my surprise it looked brand new. A lovely clear fluid with a shade of gold. Reminds me of cooking oil. So now I'm having second thoughts about touching it

The friction material suspends in oil and if this is the color, then, by all means, let it be...

Still, very hard to believe that after 70.000 km, with no oil change, the oil to have that brand new color....

impact -

it s a very specific question and may be there are several suppliers of Haldex oil for JLR...may be the Haldex units comes together with diffs assembled and filled directly from Haldex ? According to workshop manual the oil used in Haldex cames from Swedish company STAT OIL. As Haldex is also a Swedish company I believe the STATOIL is their main supplier.

To be more specific with Haldex - Haldex sold their powertrain division to Borg Warner who makes our units under brand HALDEX.

michal969 wrote:

may be the Haldex units comes together with diffs assembled and filled directly from Haldex ?

...you are right Alex....you never know "who is who" in our world today...for example all the oil seals in rear diff are VOLVO branded....

It's my first time posting a message. I just wanted to say that my dealer is not recomanding me to change the oil of my haldex.. even tho I hear a vibration on very low speed when turning hard..My question is Did the vibration stop after the oil change ? am I missing oil? My dealer wants to change the whole Haldex .. its a 4000 $ job!

I have an LR2 2010 with 110 000 km.. Thank you all for your help!

Question. When i changed my diff. I filled both haldex and rear diff oil until it started to leak from filling hole, then i plugged the plugs, and installed whole diff included haldexunit back to its place. I didnt use method removing 70ml, should i be worried about ? About this ignition 5mins and removing 70ml, does this mean i start the car or just turn powers to car for 5mins, so it will make the system check and it starts automaticly the haldex pump? And then remove the 70ml.

Second. Is it possible just to replace only haldex filter to newone? Then unplug and fill full until it starts leak and plug back, ignition 5min, removing 70ml away ?

I noticed when i changed new diff, when i took haldex away. The haldex bearing sounded like there was somekind of sand between bearing when i rotated it, is this kind of mark that it is going ? If so, do i have to buy new haldex unit, what lr parts number ?
Oh, i forgot to mention. I used volvo xc90 parts, haldex oil and filter. Same stuff but under volvo logo and cheaper!


Kindly johnny.

Question about Haldex oil change: the Handbook says "Turn the ignition on for 5 minutes." before top up the oil and remove 70ml...does it means to simply put the keyfob on the dash without start the engine?

Thank you