I recently bought a HSE Td4e, 10 reg with 30K on clock, previously had a Astra 1.8 Sri, so very different cars.
I've had the FL2 for 2 weeks and have a problem with the brakes.

Firstly when I park up my FL2 'rolls', it could be that I just can't pull the handbrake up far enough but my husband also has the same problem unless he really pulls it up tight. The problem then being that I cant 'undo' the damn thing! We have to resort to parking up and leaving it in gear - in itself not a problem, as you have to start it with foot on clutch anyway. Its already been back to dealers for handbrake adjustment, but still the same problem.

The brakes themselves don't respond very well. OK if you 'pump' them first, workshop said back brakes are about 50% worn with is right for a 10reg? but surely you shouldnt have to 'pump' brakes to get vehicle to stop?
Could it just be the difference in driving a FL2 after having an Astra? Hubby says no, as he had a Ford Transit and the brakes on that are s**t hot!

I have tried ring dealer re this problem but now they just ignore my phone calls and dont ring back! DenPet

dealer must unseize the adjusters in the rear hubs not just ' adjust' the handbrake, or maybe the rear shoes are corroded - a common problem At work
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The handbrake has separate shoes inside the rear disc which suffer from water ingress causing them to seize and generally not work very well. They lining material has also been known to separate from the backing plate.
Certainly you not have to pump the brakes and they are more than adequate at pulling up the vehicle, of course, you don't know the previous owners driving habits, if they were one of these people constantly 'check braking' it does nothing more than glaze the pads over and lead to them being inefficient, a brake service will sort them out, mine come back from the dealers having had this and they feel much better, 52k miles and non replaced yet.

Is it a Land Rover dealer you have bought it from?

Let us know how you get on and welcome to the forum

I find if I push the footbrake down quite firmly and apply the handbrake the vehicle generally holds still , I noticed last week that my wife was using 2 hands to take the handbrake off , she struggles otherwise .
We are parked on a fairly steep drive at home so always ensure h/b is firmly on and rev selected .

Sounds as though the rear brakes need stripping down, checking the Hand Brake Shoe adjusters and pivots, the pivot is known to seize, it can be freed up but for what the cost of the bits are you might as well fit new ones, normally if your having to pump the brakes it is poor adjustment but as yours are disc all round it is all self adjusting. If your not happy with the brakes, go back to where you purchased from and get it seen, Brakes are to important to be left to chance, in am emergency you don't have time to pump them, the brakes on a Freelander 2 are very reassuring so something is wrong. p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

Lurcher wrote:

............We are parked on a fairly steep drive at home so always ensure h/b is firmly on and rev selected .

Park .....on a manual

Whoops! When I first read this, in the first post I read "as you have to start it with foot on clutch anyway" as "......foot on brake" and I assumed it was an auto.  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

The handbrake has been a ongoing problem since the freelander 2 was built and it really has not been sorted out properly..
Mine is a 2008 and it has a unbelievable high bite level for a handbrake...And always has..
A lady would struggle like mad to be able to undo mine.

Thanks guys.

taztastic - I bought it from a well known Vauxhall dealership.

note to self - buy Vauxhalls from a Vauxhall dealership and Land Rovers from a Land Rover dealership! DenPet

Steve D wrote:

Whoops! When I first read this, in the first post I read "as you have to start it with foot on clutch anyway" as "......foot on brake" and I assumed it was an auto.

Statement- brakes are not specific to LandRover, they are designed and manufactured by sub suppliers and may be used by a number of car makers.
I believe that you probably have multiple standard problems that need addressing and you can get back to square 1 and good brakes.
Brake parts use steel and with damp steel converts to rust; rust has a greater volume than steel so parts sieze up.
I think you probably have siezed pads and siezed handbrake pivots and adjusters.
If you have a tame home mechanic all can be stripped cleaned derusted and the working parts greased so no new parts; if you are using a dealer then you need new pads, new handbrake shoes, adjusters and linkeage.
A tame home mechanic like me uses copperslip on the rusting surfaces so the finished result lasts longer by retarding rust build up.
For LR owners of older cars even calliper pistons get jammed because expanding rust squeezes the seal rubber until it grips the piston!
I've done this operation on mine and have 40 years hands on, if you need further help pm me.
Kind regards from Fred 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
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