Hello all,
Ijust got my Freelander back from the dealer, as I reported, that the quick release tow bar could not be removed. It was as though someone had put superglue in the lock! To my surprise, the dealers response was, to drill out the lock so it could be removed, needless to say, I was not very impressed at what they had done, so now I have a quick release tow bar, that cannot be locked!
They have assured me, that it is still perfectly safe to use!, does anyone have a view on this, as I am sceptical as to its' safety?
Does anyone know of any solutions, short of another tow bar, or has anyone got one that they don't need any more?
Thanks

Hi,

If its whitter detachable like mine, I'm sure the lock is just for security (unnickability;), as when you attach the bar it clicks and mechanically locks into place. I never lock it when towing anyways;-) Kola is the big solid black German Shepherd, Dobbie is.......a breed you've never heard of......yet;)

Hi, it's a Land Rover tow bar made by Brink. Yes the dealer said it would be ok to use and still be secure, but I like the idea that it will only lock if it is securely in place, so, if you like, a secondary security device, knowing it has latched properly

Hi Geordie Boy,
A couple of years ago I had a similar problem with a Brink/Thule unit that would not unlock. As it had been recently replaced by LR under warranty (see other threads on clunking towbars!), I contacted Thule direct and they asked me to remove the whole receiver and send it to them. I'm fairly sure they just drilled out the old (not actually very old!) lock and fitted a new one which now has a Thule logo rather than LR. It came back in 2 days FOC. No problems since. I don't think it is a particularly difficult job to change lock, so guess it just discourages the opportunist tea-leaf.

Hi Pressureman, I contacted Thule a couple of days ago, but they just refered me back to Land Rover dealer, as they could or would do nothing.
Nice if it had worked, thanks for the idea though.

How about the second go at Thule / Brink.
Ask for the spares department and buy the lock barrel/ keys and fit yourself, (or a mechanic to do it).
I have a Witter detachable and always lock it; I also have an Alko hitch and Alko hitchlock which is also fitted and locked when towing.
A/. You can leave the combo when using motorway services,
B/. You know the Caravan cannot detach whilst towing.
.
Kind regards from Fred

Thule are not as helpful as they were, since Andy has moved on the new guy is hard work and not helpful, after my last replacement Towball and Receiver he said that's your lot, we wont exchange anymore for you, you've had three according to our records. Needless to say, I changed the towbar to a Westfalia Detachable which was fine, which incidentally is the same receiver as fitted to the FFRR. p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

I have a brand new unused landrover one with cloth bag and keys that i no longer need, I bought it because I thought i had lost my old one, but found the old one before the new one arrived, so never been put on a car.

Tandemman, pm sent

Geordie Boy,
Sorry about the semi-duff info. I now remember that I heard Andy had moved on and the customer service was no longer as we remember it! I now have a potential problem as I have ordered a new FL2 and not sure whether to stick with the Thule detachable and risk further problems or go for a fixed ball (or even an independent fit but a little concerned over warranty issues on electrics). I assume the design of the detachable (and reported rattle) is no different on Thule detachable swan-necks fitted to other (premium) vehicles but haven't done a trawl of their blogs.

Get the genuine electrics and a Westfalia or Witter Detachable Bar

Witter = No bumper cut. p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

If you are active on DIY the Witter detachable is an absolute doddle to fit yourself; as already mentioned there is no bumper cut.
The Witter instructions do tell you to remove the red reflector and drill two holes to get a socket set extension bar access however if you are competent and have nimble hands you just wriggle your arm / hand up behind the reflector, feel for the nuts and then undo them using a ring spanner.

So if you also buy the factory electrics there is no need for any drilling or cutting whatsoever. Just a visit to the Dealer to switch it on to active.

I always install my tow bars with copperslip grease to the threads so you can remove it at a later date when you change car. Some members might not agree with greasing as it may affect torque figures however I've been doing this now for at least 30 years with no ill effects.
Kind regards from Fred 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Thanks ad and Fred.
I'm now fairly convinced that the best option is Witter/Westfalia with genuine LR electrics. I've discovered that my local LR stealer regularly uses a local auto electrics/towbar company instead of their own fitters. I should be OK with DIY as I spent around 30 years as a Marine Engineer and you couldn't call a service engineer when you are hundreds of miles from the nearest land! If dealer activates genuine wiring then there should be little issue with warranty.