Hi All,

When I first bought my FL2 HSE I noticed a noise that increases with speed from the front end passenger side wheel. This now appears to be the front near side wheel bearing either worn or damaged. I also noted today that after removing the alloy centre plastic wheel caps (hold the LR Logo) it also appears the drivers side from what I can see has a nice new shiney hub (obviously been replaced to new) where as my passenger near side is rusty and old.

My question is has anyone done a FL2 (FRONT) wheel bearing and how difficult is it to do?

I see what appears to be a small 13 mm bolt/nut by the looks in the centre of the hub with a big washer (seems too small to be the main driveshaft bolt/nut?) or is there a larger nut behind this too? like a two stage or something? I was expecting to see a large nut that holds the driveshaft on? also is the bearing a press fitted in one or after removal of the circlip behind it can it be removed freely and replaced easily? basically I cant decide if its easier to buy a full hub or just the bearing and swap out.

If anyone has done one (Big ask here) I would appreciate a step by step guide or a web link to info on replacing one as I cant find anything to show the DIY mechanic on how to do it via the web also saves me guessing as I go. Also are there any special tools required for the job?

My thinking as the drivers side is new then I should buy a new NS hub that already has the bearing fitted and if so how easy is it to fit and what do I need socketwise/tools to do the job.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated and thanks again to anyone that replies in advance as I was quoted £300 for the job but im one of those that would rather do it myself.

Thanks

EQ

Last edited by Equ1nox on 27th Jun 2013 4:33 pm. Edited 1 time in total

The bearing will be a press fit into the hub assembly.

Quote:

im one of those that would rather do it myself.

Hi Fisha,

Many thanks for the great response, I have emailed the person selling the knuckle as I want to double check it is definitely for a FL2 and not a FL1 plus I have seen hubs showing abs wiring on them do you know if I was to get this one would mine if it is abs be transferrable to the new hub?

I also agree and thought the same btw, I don't really want to be messing about trying to press fit things as damage is so easily introduced.

Regards

EQ

If its the same as other ABS sensors I've dealt with, then the sensor normally just slots into a hole in the knuckle and is held in place with a small bolt of some sort. the sensor just pushes in until it hits the toothed wheel or its limit of insertion.

If should be transferrable from one to the other, the sensor likely comes with a complete loom that runs from the sensor up the strut with the connector being at the top area of the strut on the chassis.

The only thing that could cause you an issue would be that the sensor may not want to slide out very easily. I remember shearing one into a hub, and then having to drill it out ( not hard ).

Perhaps before you tackle the job, check whether you are able to easily remove the sensor from the existing hub. If not, then when it comes to buying parts, you know whether you'll need a new sensor or at the same time. Would be annoying to do all the work and not have it complete for the sake of a broken sensor.

I just spoke to the fella selling the knuckle and got one of the two he was selling for a great price, he is going to throw in some extra bolts and a abs sensor too so fingers crossed I am going to be sorted, he also works for LR the parts are brand new so thanks for the link. If I get time I might try and photo the stages when I do it so I can share the procedure for those like me in future that does not know how to do it.

EQ

Equ1nox,
I had the front drivers side wheel bearing replaced recently (front hub). There was no play, checked it, after jacking it up. It also passed an MOT. Just noisy above 30mph & when turning into corners.
After shopping around for prices, had an indie change it for £230 (all in), for the front hub with wheel bearing & set of new front pads & disc's (OEM quality), £150 all in. The garage said it was a pig of a job & that they broke two sockets on the hub bolt, was very tight.
I was going to change the discs & pads myself, but let the garage change them whilst he was changing the hub.
Our 58 FRL2 had covered only 68k from new, so was disappointed it needed a new wheel bearing. Landy has now gone.

I must admit I am looking forward to this like a hole in the head, I have been told the central bolts are brittle so fingers crossed it does not shear or I am stuffed either way I am committed now as I bought the part and cant really afford the extra for the privilege to have someone else to do it, besides if it works out then I know what to do if they ever go again and its one of the reasons I like to do the work myself. Yeah its disappointing a wheel bearing going so soon my car has only hit 88K you would of thought that's the last thing to go on a 4x4 as these are meant to be robust and tuff. The garage I got my original quote from stated the FL2 was rare to do the wheel bearing but the Disco 3 were more common to this very issue? its also such a shame when whoever did the drivers side didn't have the savvy to do the passenger side while they were at it.

This is what happens when you buy second hand but once its sorted I am sure she will be fine and I love my FL2 despite its faults Does not matter what car you buy there is always something that goes lol

EQ

Good luck with it & keep us posted.
I have just replaced the rear discs & pads on my Astra H. Had buy a rewind tool in the end, to rewind piston back. Was easy with the correct tool. Changed plenty front discs & pads, was my first rear.
Have your discs been changed on the front before? Mine were the first set in 68k. Had to brake discs to get them off from the hub, they were shot anyway. Only ever had that happen to me once before, had to saw through a front disc. Then broke it off hub. When I was changing pads & discs.
I think the hub cost £150 for the landy (wife's motor), garage charged me £80 labour. Think the stealers would have charged me alot more than that. I keep well away from them now. Either maintain both vehicles myself or take it to an indie.
Only had the landy since Aug last year & our first 4x4. Have had a few issues with it, sorted most of them myself, apart from wheel bearing. Hoping this is it for a while now Suppose there's 3 other bearings :shock:Bit of luck, I'll be OK
We love the landy too. Has been trying at times though. Landy has now gone.

In terms of the bolts, what you can do in advance is to soaks them with wd40 and th like. Then when it comes to the time, fire up a heat gun over the bolts and get them really hot and then cold water on the knuckle, swoosh more wd40 in and repeat.

The thermal cycling and shocking can help wd 40 penetrate better and help break apart surfaces.

Gen Hub RRP £145+VAT
Labour £110+VAT Sophie Alltoft

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Right I thought I would share my experience with you all lol

Firstly this is a "TWO" man job as I found out and luckily for me my neighbour helped me out (Gave him some beers for doing so too as it was greatly appreciated).

The process below if for the replacing of the knuckle/Hub assembly, NOT the bearing itself as I bought my unit complete as it was a lot easier than trying to press fit or recycle the old knuckle/hub.

You also need bush removal/pulley tool - http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqIOKokE3Elch...8800005007
And a "ball joint splitter" - http://washford.scene7.com/is/image/Washford/400-694414?$

A good socket set, breaker bar, decent spanners, some grease, muscle and patience

Here are the Steps I took to complete the job.

1, Remove wheel LR badge cap,
2, Undo the certre CV bolt carefully 13mm !! as these can be brittle apparently
3, Slacken off the wheel nuts 21mm
4, Chock back wheels, Jack the car up and place axel stand underneath for safety
5, Next Remove the wheel and place out of the way,
6, Next Remove the brake caliper (2 x Bolts allen key type)
7, Next Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (2 x bolts 19mm)
8, Next Remove disc locating bolt (torx) this sheared off as it was so tight
9, Next Remove the disc itself (tap the hub/face of the disc gently with a hammer "NOT THE DISC ITSELF WHERE THE PADS SIT" until the disc comes loose).
10, Remove the disc guard (3 x 8mm bolts)
11, Remove the ABS sensor located behind the disc guard, again a torx bolt but twist this slowly until it comes free, don't force it out or it might break and do not forget to unclip it from the strut itself.
12, Next remove the steering rack track rod end bolt (21 or 22mm) nut (hit the cast iron till the taper drops then remove fully)
13, Remove the bolt that clamps the knuckle hub to the strut 15mm (Located at the back of the strut itself)
14, Next remove the lower ball joint, bottom of the hub (21 or 22mm) nut this was a pain in the ass as you need to leaver it downwards and jack up the hub slightly until you can free it, dont jack the hub/strut too much as the taper will not come free, it jammed on me until I realised this. Your best off slightly raising/supporting it with a jack and a piece of wood was all it needed.
15, Next you need a pulley to clamp onto the hub itself and then screw the center bolt to push the CV joint out the back as mine was too tight to push out with hands (I used a bush removal pulley three prong job)
16, Finally you need to use a ball joint slitter fork or metal wedge something tapered basically to wedge down the back slot of the knuckle at the back to splay this apart gently to allow you to pull the knuckle off the strut itself.
17 Remove the knuckle completely and replace.
18 Put back together is obviously the reverse of the above and your good to go, DO ensure everything is tight or torqued up, and DO ensure you pump your brakes back up before you road test or you will get a fright !! lol Yeah I forgot that part !

Its not too bad a job if your mechanically adapt, the result is a job well done and she is smooth as silk now when driving.

I hope this helps anyone out there that tackles this in the future, as its my contribution back to the forum for all the help I have received in the past.

Apologies I never got time to photograph it as I had to get stuck in and complete it needed my wheels don't we all pmsl

Regards

Equinox[/url]

Good effort, well done. Your description of steps is very close to how I imagined it would be. Glad you got it sorted.

Thanks for the advice, I'm about to tackle this job myself... you've helped me pluck up the courage! 138,000 miles & counting

Equ1nox wrote:

Right I thought I would share my experience with you all lol

Firstly this is a "TWO" man job as I found out and luckily for me my neighbour helped me out (Gave him some beers for doing so too as it was greatly appreciated).

The process below if for the replacing of the knuckle/Hub assembly, NOT the bearing itself as I bought my unit complete as it was a lot easier than trying to press fit or recycle the old knuckle/hub.

You also need bush removal/pulley tool - http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqIOKokE3Elch...8800005007
And a "ball joint splitter" - http://washford.scene7.com/is/image/Washford/400-694414?$

A good socket set, breaker bar, decent spanners, some grease, muscle and patience

Here are the Steps I took to complete the job.

1, Remove wheel LR badge cap,
2, Undo the certre CV bolt carefully 13mm !! as these can be brittle apparently
3, Slacken off the wheel nuts 21mm
4, Chock back wheels, Jack the car up and place axel stand underneath for safety
5, Next Remove the wheel and place out of the way,
6, Next Remove the brake caliper (2 x Bolts allen key type)
7, Next Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (2 x bolts 19mm)
8, Next Remove disc locating bolt (torx) this sheared off as it was so tight
9, Next Remove the disc itself (tap the hub/face of the disc gently with a hammer "NOT THE DISC ITSELF WHERE THE PADS SIT" until the disc comes loose).
10, Remove the disc guard (3 x 8mm bolts)
11, Remove the ABS sensor located behind the disc guard, again a torx bolt but twist this slowly until it comes free, don't force it out or it might break and do not forget to unclip it from the strut itself.
12, Next remove the steering rack track rod end bolt (21 or 22mm) nut (hit the cast iron till the taper drops then remove fully)
13, Remove the bolt that clamps the knuckle hub to the strut 15mm (Located at the back of the strut itself)
14, Next remove the lower ball joint, bottom of the hub (21 or 22mm) nut this was a pain in the ass as you need to leaver it downwards and jack up the hub slightly until you can free it, dont jack the hub/strut too much as the taper will not come free, it jammed on me until I realised this. Your best off slightly raising/supporting it with a jack and a piece of wood was all it needed.
15, Next you need a pulley to clamp onto the hub itself and then screw the center bolt to push the CV joint out the back as mine was too tight to push out with hands (I used a bush removal pulley three prong job)
16, Finally you need to use a ball joint slitter fork or metal wedge something tapered basically to wedge down the back slot of the knuckle at the back to splay this apart gently to allow you to pull the knuckle off the strut itself.
17 Remove the knuckle completely and replace.
18 Put back together is obviously the reverse of the above and your good to go, DO ensure everything is tight or torqued up, and DO ensure you pump your brakes back up before you road test or you will get a fright !! lol Yeah I forgot that part !

Its not too bad a job if your mechanically adapt, the result is a job well done and she is smooth as silk now when driving.

I hope this helps anyone out there that tackles this in the future, as its my contribution back to the forum for all the help I have received in the past.

Apologies I never got time to photograph it as I had to get stuck in and complete it needed my wheels don't we all pmsl

Regards

Equinox[/url]

duckworthparts wrote:

Gen Hub RRP £145+VAT
Labour £110+VAT

This was obviously some time ago...

Any chance you can give me a current price for an OEM rear wheel bearing for my 2007 F2, and another price for the hub assembly complete (OEM)?

I'm in France so hoping you are able to post here.

Joyeaux Noel, btw  Only dead fish go with the flow