Well I have had my HSE a week and today I decided it needed a Voodoo clean and polish, so it got the old snow foam treatment and polished with Collinite 456s.

I also Fitted some new side steps ( they had been fitted already at some point and removed by landrover before I bought it )

New mats ( early farthers day pressie ) and some new stainless kick plates fronts have Land embosed in them.

Now a question I hope some one can help with regarding the side steps, Like I say these had been fitted before so I never had to cut the sill covers or put the captive nuts/threads in ............. now heres the thing one or two of the captive nuts are spinning in there holes and the 6mm bolts are tight, I am going to bring a set of mole grips home and 6mm taps and try and hold the edge of the captive nut and retap the threads and clean them up as there a bit rusty.

If I cant free up the threads or stop the captive nuts spinning is there a way to remove them so I can fit the new ones that came with the side steps. I dont think there is enough meat there to drill them out and use 8mm helicoils and tbh this is a last resort.

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It looks great. I really like those carpet mats, and I bet they were cheaper than LR ones!

If you don't mind me asking, how much were the kick plates?

Enjoy your FL2 and keep us updated.

The tread plates are on my to do list, along with the silver trim finisher for the boot. 21MY Defender 90 S 3.0 D200

Will you buy genuine LR ones? I think that £160 for some strips of metal is too expensive. If I got the rear boot finisher it would be from powerful uk, for half the price.

Very nice, but can I suggest you use something a little less aggressive next time you clean the number plates?

chrisr1806 wrote:

Will you buy genuine LR ones? I think that £160 for some strips of metal is too expensive. If I got the rear boot finisher it would be from powerful uk, for half the price.

Those camera deterrent number plates are excellent, though about getting some myself, or taking them off and chucking them completely.

I knew I should'nt have used those Aldi Brilo Pads HSE TD4 Stornoway Grey ★ Rear Spoiler ★ Black Leather Interior ★ Panoramic Roof ★ Navigation with Bluetooth ★ 19 " Alloys ★ Alpine Stereo 10 Disc Auto changer and Ipod connection and lots of other nice toys ★

Nice looking motor,as for your captive nut problem drill them out completely and renew them . They work on the same principle as a rivet

Hi BIGM, I noticed that this is your first post. Welcome aboard.

Looks nice, my old stowaway grey came up a treat with a good wax, like collinite 475s (you say you polished it in the first post ) Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Looks grate Voodoo any other plans in the pipe line BETTER looking half of the famous Twinlanders
The wanna be other half - http://www.freel2.com/forum/member-carriec.html

Nice...

Re the side steps.... I'm sure there is a special tool on flea bay for it....

T

Edit - http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p...;_from=R40 Terran



'The' Car For The Modern Day UK Roads ( ie all the pot holes )

'A Freelander that leaks oil is just marking its territory' - Wise words

Now a member of the FL2 'Silly Bill' Club

Its called a rivnut tool, and the captive nuts, unsuprisingly, rivnuts, lots on ebay I am not saying it is your fault, I am simply saying that I am blaming you.

chrisr1806 wrote:

Will you buy genuine LR ones? I think that £160 for some strips of metal is too expensive. If I got the rear boot finisher it would be from powerful uk, for half the price.

I like to try and keep everything genuine LR parts, but as you say LRs parts are a bit overly priced for what they are.

Powerful uks tread plates look ok, with them being plain, I could get the fronts engraved. Or is that just tacky  21MY Defender 90 S 3.0 D200