jon_a5 wrote:

... turns over and then everything dies, one time I couldn't even get the key out.

Maybe something here from 'Topix', perhaps the Security Module playing up or the Start Control Module (behind dash) a part of which the fob pushes in, again maybe a loose plug/socket to that?

Click image to enlarge

Have a few more videos to upload when I get a chance, was fine on Friday morning and eve, but yesterday morning took 2-3 mins to get going.

Still non the wiser, can't work out why it is so intermittent...

Haven't had the glow plug light showing since I started taking videos so wonder if it could be a problem there?

Jon Freelander 2, 2014 Dynamic SD4 Santorini Black

Well an update on this, left it at the dealers for a week while I was on holiday, they couldn't find anything wrong and the problem didn't happen when it was with them.
Car was dropped off and hasn't had any trouble starting for 3-4 weeks.

Last night it started struggling again, it was showing 6 degrees and had been up to 10 during the day in the sun so don't think its related to the cold as much as I thought.

Problem is much the same, press the start button and it sometimes semi cranks and fails other times just clicking noises and no cranking. Then on attempt x it will just start no problem at all, just a complete normal start.

Really don't want to leave the car waiting at the dealers so think its start replacing things until I find the problem. Does anyone have an sujestions of the best sensors / parts to start with.

Jon Freelander 2, 2014 Dynamic SD4 Santorini Black

Clutching at straws here but looking at it from a different perspective, for the car to progress a 'start' signal two sensors are used, the 'crankshaft' and the 'camshaft'. Both must have the correct gapping and the 'crankshaft' one especially can be prone to the elements so perhaps check the connection plugs to these.
Obviously sensor problems can be more detailed than this but its a cheap option to go with first.

There are a few threads on here
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic15084.html?highlight=crankshaft
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic8310.html...p;start=15
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic12139.html?highlight=crankshaft

Jon_5
May I suggest not to start on spending money on sensors just yet.
You may have more than one fault.
In earlier posts you mentioned that sometimes the engine clicks but the starter does not operate. This could either be that the starter is faulty or wiring problem or module problem.
You mentioned that you had replaced the earth wire between battery neg and bulkhead, did you replace? Yes/no?
You mentioned you were to add the extra earth is that yes/no?
If the answer to both is yes then find the wire connector at the starter motor, (not the heavy red one), buy a car accessory warning light and wire it to this terminal and an earth and tape the light just under the bonnet lip so you can see it from the drivers seat. Each time you start the car this will glow when the starter turns.
Next time when the fault occurrs if the light glows and the starter doesn't spin you know the starter motor is duff.
If with the fault of starter not spinning there is also no light them you know the starter is ok and you can chase the problem backwards looking for faulty relays and modules.
You must however before any of the above have added that extra earth lead!!!
When you have proved and or solved the starter motor problem then think about sensors.
Start by unplugging and plugging each sensor plug 3 times each in succession to clean its contacts the follow with each other connector.
Good luck
Fred

It sounds very much like a starter solenoid problem to me. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

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Sometimes it will start instantly other times it will crank and die, others it will not crank at all...

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press button starts to crank then fails, this time couldn't remove the key, tried it again 30 seconds later and it started no problem.

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sometimes you press the button it starts, some times it tries to start and fails and sometimes is just does nothing...

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It normally tries to crank on the first try, sometimes it does half a turn and gives up others it does several and sometimes gives up and sometimes starts after sounding like it won't. Normally on attempts after that there is just silence.

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On other days press the putton it starts to crank then cuts out in a bit of a fit,

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turns over and then everything dies, one time I couldn't even get the key out.

Well just been out and car started fine (has been sat since 6pm last night) think it is getting worse though as yesterday it had trouble starting then drove the fill up with fuel (was showing 1/2 a tank at the time but like to keep it topped up) Fuel station is about a 10min drive from my office mostly on the motorway, filled up paid and pressed the start button, car started to crank then failed then cranked sounded like it started then cranked again and started only pressed the button once.

I am wondering if it could be the crank shaft sensor as this might explain why it always starts in the end, gradually rotates the engine around and it eventually gets a signal its happy with? Probably doesn't work like that though...

Where is the starer solenoid wonder how expensive they are...

Jon Freelander 2, 2014 Dynamic SD4 Santorini Black

Still sounds me like the starter motor, have you added that earth lead and the warning bulb yet?
It is highly likely that the starter solenoid is barley capable of doing its job and has cut out as it was attempting to rotate the engine.
Adding the extra earth lead might might just sort it in one go.
If you still want to go changing the crank angle sensor then you must also change the reluctor ring which is behind the front pulley because it might be magnets that are weak with old age. Be prepared with a 3/4 drive socket set and employ mr muscleman to undo the single centre bolt, I turned a socket into a flower head first go, it was so tight.
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PLEASE PLEASE establish that you have the proper earth and a fully working starter motor!!!!!!!!!
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Kind regards
Fred 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

I'm still favouring the clutch pedal switch tbh, I went to start mine this morning, and took my foot off the clutch pedal and it stopped mid crank, then I put my foot back on the pedal depressed it then it continued the cranking again then started, so it seems to have cranking cycle that once started if interrupted it will continue that cycle. I really think your fault lies in that area, My11 freelander 2, xs, Manual, 18" hse sparkles, sidesteps, privacy, zermatt silver metallic, almond nutmeg alacantra, twin electric towbar

Gone my09 xs D3

Ref Bambi - Good possibilities
I would still re-iterate that if there was a bulb connected via the starter terminal that it would provide such an easy cheap way of establishing where to look for the problem without having to dismantle or guess at buying bits!
Ie if the bulb flickers off at the same time as the starter hiccups then you know you have to work backwards to find the fault.
You have to start somewhere so why not start using some logic and spend very little cash.
Most problems are mechanical bits that are worn out or broken.
Kind regards from Fred

Can't fault your logic there Fred,  My11 freelander 2, xs, Manual, 18" hse sparkles, sidesteps, privacy, zermatt silver metallic, almond nutmeg alacantra, twin electric towbar

Gone my09 xs D3

Mmm. After reading again, i'm not 100% sure it is the starter solenoid, or at least a faulty one.
Fred is putting you on the right track, there is no easy diagnosis. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

I've just had a non start!
Keys in, Ingn on, pressed to start - just a clunk from somewhere
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Bonnet up and got wife to attempt the start - the clunk was the starter motor but no rotation. Tried the leads at the starter - all tight.
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Then tried the battery connections and found the heavy red lead on the poz terminal that has the big flat fuse was loose. Fetched a spanner, the nut was very tight so swung a bit harder till it eventually tightened up.
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Car started properly.
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John_a5 can I suggest you check your red lead at both starter and battery ends, it would also explain why you had the battery changed as this lead is from the Alternator. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva