My MY07 FL2 failed to start the other morning for the first time in 5 years of ownership, cranked over very slugishly but failed to fire up and failed immediatly afterwards with only half a crank on further attempts.
Called out the AA who as expected diagnosed a flat battery. He did a test on it which showed the battery in good condition and charging okay but with (what he thought) was a high drain of 0.4 amp which was the probable cause of the flat battery after a week parked up, no interior lights etc showing on either.
Is 0.4 amp a high drain for the FL2 after everything is shut down?
Is this enough drain to discharge the battery over a week?

Cheers.

I could well be wrong but I think it should be about 0.03 amps. There is a man on YouTube called Eric the car guy, he posts loads of clips showing how to do various maintainance on cars. One of the clips shows how to check what is draining the battery. Hope you sort it. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

0.4 amps is a little extreme. If that is correct, then no wonder your battery was flat after a week

I had exactly the same thing happen to me this morning. Yesterday I drove about 120 miles before parking up in my hotel car park. Previous day I'd done about 140 miles, so the battery should have been well charged.
This morning, about 0 degrees out and a bit snowy, tried to start it, but it seemed like there wasn't enough charge in the battery to properly crank the engine. I'd been parked up for about 10 hours. Called the AA. When he arrived, he tested the battery. He said it was flat, but in good condition. Put the jump starter pack on, and the car started fine. He then measured the drain on the battery with everything off, and it was about 0.5 A. As you cannot arm the alarm with the bonnet open, he wasn't able to measure the drain in the locked state, ie hopefully when everything that should shut down is shut down. But he did say even if it was 0.5A, then due to the size of the FL2 battery, this shouldn't have killed it overnight.
I'm now thinking of buying a jump starter pack, and carrying it in the boot. Or at the very least, a set of jump leads.

PaddyMcG wrote:

I'm now thinking of buying a jump starter pack, and carrying it in the boot. Or at the very least, a set of jump leads.

Supprised he didn't know that you can jam a screwdriver into the bonnet catch to trick it into thinking the bonnets closed for a shutdown test, but then the LRA guy that did mine drove a D4 not a yellow van  Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/videos/7-vid...F1gijj03_0

The above is Eric the car guy looking for an electrical fault. I'm no electrician but Eric says in the video about making the car think the doors are shut etc so the computer systems go into sleep mode then you can start looking at what is draining the battery. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

It was a common failure on RR P38s for the ecu to 'wake up' randomly, which flattened the battery after standing for a few days. As it should go to sleep after a few minutes, and hardly use any battery power intead of about 0.5 amp It was believed that either 3G telephone signals, or digital TV signals were causing this to happen. I believe here was a fix, and I've never heard of it happening on any other LR product, but it may be worth a chat with the dealer or an auto electrician.

There is a thread on here about the phone draining the battery.
If you are on the phone and get out of the car the bluetooth doesn't shut down, and will flatten a fully charged battery overnight.

If you are on the phone, sit in the car with the engine running. Only stop the engine after you have finnished the call. This has caught me out twice, once I drove 250 miles, next morning flat battery after chatting on the phone as I left the car.

Not nessesarily the cause in this case - but something to be wary of. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

My 2007 freelander 2 has starting problems, and I'm trying to track down the problems.

Before I dismantle totally the car to change the glowplugs, I would like to be sure that I haven't a battery problem.

To find out if there is a permanent current draw on the battery, I need to trick the car into thinking that everything is closed and then lock it up.

After sereval minutes with a bit of luck everything should be shut down so I can monitor the current drain with a Amp-meter (10amp range minimum)

But to do that I need the bonnet open to read the current, and the bonnet and doors open to eventually pull fuses.

I presume that for the doors there are old style push buttons, but where are the buttons for the bonnet switch??

Help would be appreciated.

info here
Be careful though, there are the airbag trigger sensors nearby

It's quite easy to monitor the battery voltage during shutdown in the 'locked' condition.
If you look down the engine compartment under the bell housing, there is a gap between the subframe and the lower pan. I just thread two small croc clips and leads from underneath and place them on the subframe. Then from underbonnet reach down and connect them to the battery. Close the bonnet and lock the car.
Make sure your leads are long enough! Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

I know that with long leads I can close up the car, but I want to be able to pull fuses so as to find our what is causing the drain.

So I need to keep the bonnet open BUT I need the car to think it is closed!!!

As said above wedge the bonnet switch with something.

Many a time I've been called out to rescue someone who has a flat battery, when I say the battery is duff you always get the response, well the AA man said it was ok and it's been tested? What with a volt meter?

A battery may read fine on a meter and indicate it's charging, when it gets cold there is less cranking amps available, this can only be tested with a meter that can calculate the cold cranking amps on turnover, so a battery that appears absolutely fine and will crank in moderate temperatures may just not have the power to crank the engine on cold mornings.