As SimonT says, battery soldered to the PCB, easy 2 minute job to change
Rechargable Lithium Coin Cell Battery here http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/displayProduct.j...2-00001000 ______________________
2011 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8
2012 FL2 SD4 Auto HSE
2013 Kawasaki Versys 650

There we go then, battery problem sloved, just solder and fit new one

Just used this thread to fix one of the fobs that came with my car but wouldn't hold its charge anymore. I was using the good fob to lock and unlock, and try to charge the poor fob but after a week it could occasionally lock but never double lock the car.

So I bought another battery from farnells for £4.06. (VL2330/HFN BATTERY, RECHARGEABLE LITHIUM, 2330),
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productde...ku=8806560

I removed the key section and had the case levered open slightly with some expanding circlip pliers, just reaching for a small flat blade screwdriver to gently lever my way round it when it suddenly exploded apart. I was expecting to find bits of key fob everywhere but it seperated into 2 case parts and the circuit board.

I carefully slid the black plastic cradle off of the old battery and with no soldering skills whatsoever managed to desolder the old battery out after several attemps and clear out the solder holes with a solder sucker that I have owned for about 10 years but never used.

Pushed the new battery into the cradle and mounted it back on the board, couple of ugly solder attemps later I had it 'good enough'.

Sod me if it didn't still work. Some clear silicon sealant round the case edge and taped it up to dry.

And of course now its all glued up in its case, this morning it wouldn't work.

Bit more solder and its working fine now.  
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Had the same problem with mine, and being an electronics engineer, the soldering side of things gave me no worries about replacing the battery. I had doubts about the battery being faulty as the key is regularly charged up with a long journey (open the car with wifes fob)

However, as per one of the posts on here, it worked perfectly when the pcb was out of the case. Further investigations revealed the inside of the back of the case has a neoprene packing piece on it, which pushes onto the back of the battery.
Over time, this compresses so no longer pushes on the back of the battery.

As an experiment, I packed mine out with 4 small pieces of paper and it works perfectly every time. Glued the case back together and every one is a winner !

(Just a though as something to try before going down the soldering route, case is already open and it will cost nothing to try, might save you the agro of soldering the fob) I am not saying it is your fault, I am simply saying that I am blaming you.

ptecuk wrote:

presumably it is a special rechargeable button cell charged by induction when in the vehicle slot.

Jimski wrote:

ptecuk wrote:

presumably it is a special rechargeable button cell charged by induction when in the vehicle slot.

Is this the case!? Dealer never mentioned anything to me about the fob needing to be charged!?

Jimski

The way it works is while you're driving and the fob is in the dock button side up it is being charged.

What is recommended is to swap the fobs over occassionally to ensure they're both kept charged. The days of leaving the spare fob in a drawer is long gone.

It also appears that if the rechargeable battery in the fob becomes too drained then recharging is not possible. This leaves the only option of replacing the battery. Which i and ohers have done successfully and for a matter of no more than £10 and some time. 2002 Honda VFR800
2002 Toyota Celica 140 Silver (mid life crisis - again!)
2007 FL2 GS Manual Army Reconnaissance Green + freel2.com sticker
2004 Toyota Celica 140 Black - Gone
2000 Toyota Celica 140 Silver - Gone
1998 Toyota Celica ST Pearl Green - Gone
1996 Nissan Primera 1.6 - Gone
1994 Rover Montego 1.6 Auto - Gone

Well every day is a school day........!! Better take the dealer keyring off and slot it in!!

Jimski 2013 FL2 - Black Edition Auto
2013 FL2 - Black Edition Manual GONE!
Founder of the 'Microscopic LR Spoiler Badge Club'
Destroyer of chrome rears.....

So yours is not the facelifted MY2013 model Jimski? with a 'passive' key and no place to 'dock' it with a replaceable battery.

EYorkshire wrote:

So yours is not the facelifted MY2013 model Jimski? with a 'passive' key and no place to 'dock' it with a replaceable battery.

In that case you will not have a re-chargeable fob battery, it will be a replacement off the shelf button type, and the car's display will warn you when it is getting low.

Your fob doesn't have to be docked anywhere.

Noted thanks, have just checked the magic book and it shows how to open the fob and what battery to buy.

Thanks for the help,

Jimski 2013 FL2 - Black Edition Auto
2013 FL2 - Black Edition Manual GONE!
Founder of the 'Microscopic LR Spoiler Badge Club'
Destroyer of chrome rears.....

Hello,

Please help me whit my problem, what is worng my car? When i lock the car, i normaly press twice that it lock hole car but it leaves doors open. mirrors will go in but it wont lock it. When i try to open the door, it launches alarm but no lock?

what is wrong?! Wery dangerious to leave car in city wide oped

...

sounds like disconnect car battery, cup of tea, reconnec, reset windows etc. try again ?? ...

Be true to yourself. That way happiness lies...