I parked up last night and went to get something out off the back seat and the offside rear door won't open, I've tried the handle on the outside and then the inside one and nothing, the inside handle and lock are just lifeless with no resistance to touch and then I tried tthe window and that was dead as well, I've checked fuse FA4 in the luggage compartment fuse box which is supposed to control the rear right door controls but this is ok, has anyone got any ideas.

you checked the fuse but did you check to see if any power was getting to the fuse in the first place. The source of the fault may be further back you could run a temp lead direct from the battery to the fuse and try that.

Just a thought

Realspeed Ex 2010 Freelander2 GS-e Diesel manual Silver owner

I was at work at the time and didn't have any tools or a meter with me, I did wonder if there was a connector plug and socket somewhere that might have come adrift.

hope my little bit of input may help. other than that try swapping switch to see if its a faulty one

Realspeed Ex 2010 Freelander2 GS-e Diesel manual Silver owner

First opportunity with time and weather to have a good look at it, firstly I did the reset, disconnecting the battery for ten minutes and touching the leads for 30 seconds, I have checked the rear fuse box and I have power to FA4, next I removed the B pillar lower trim and removed the multi-plug and I have power there so it seems power is getting to the door.
I suppose the next thing I have to do is gain access to the inside of the door, can this be done with the door shut as it is still locked, any input will be gratefully appreciated.
My problem is I am on the Isle of Wight and they have just closed our one and only Landrover approved service centre and they no longer have any landrover trained technicians, I have phoned Guy Salmon and spoken to one of the workshop guys there but all he suggested was what I have done.

The door module controls both the locking /unlocking and the window operation, all fed from the same fuse.
It does sound like a complete failure of the module or the supply has failed somewhere once inside of the door, unfortunately I have no idea how to open the door or if it is even possible to access it with it closed.

I suppose you can tell if the voltage has reached the door module by looking to see if the window switch is illuminated when the sidelights are switched on as it looks to be fed from the same module.

I've just checked with the side lights on and the window switch is not illuminated.

Maybe;

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic9897.html?highlight=rear+door

I've been driving the car with the problem for nearly two weeks since I noticed it so unfortuneately I don't think it is going to fix itself.

Okies. Have you tried holding down the inside opening switch (on dash) and trying door handle at the same time? (Obviously with help unless you are stretch Armstrong!)

Yes I have tried that, no joy!
I managed to get a bit of time on it today at work and have managed to get the retaining screws out that hold the door trim in place, not easy getting the bottom one out when you can't open the door, next step to try and remove the trim with the door locked shut.

This might help a little;

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic13544.html

Unfortunately that's the front door, I have tried today to remove the trim but no luck, with the door locked shut it is proving to be a bit of a problem, I've managed to get the four retaining screws out and I have some trim removal tools but you can't get them in so I have just made some out of some thin stainless strip I had and will try that tomorrow, but if anyone has removed the trim with the door shut I would love some advice!

Trim removal wasn't so bad after all, having spent a long time trying to get at the bottom to remove it that way I gave up and went in at the top at the rear with a trim removal tool and went for broke, the corner popped out and I worked my way around the door from the top, the only damage done was one broken clip.

Have you found the fault?