Hello

Does anyone have an opinion on a decent set of jump leads that will cope with an SD4 engine? The Hellfrauds ones are aluminium cable...hardly 'heavy duty' are they!

Would appreciate some pointers, as I want to get a decent set for the forthcoming cold weather....in regards to Lead Ampeage, do I need to be looking above 600a?

Cheers Foraging near Gaydon....
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MY13 HSE Lux SD4, Baltic Blue - current, 30,000> miles without fault
MY12 HSE 2.2 SD4, Sumatra Black - gone after 10 months/43,000 fault-free miles

Have you thought of a power station ? You can start the car on your own in the middle of nowhere plus have a decent light and compressor with you,i got an excellent one from Costco about £50 but there are much cheaper ones.

I got a cracking set of jump leads from Costco a couple of years back. Don't know if they still do them but worth a look.

I have a Clarke Jumpstart 4000. Costs over £100 but with 1500 amp peak output it will start anything! John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Are you sure about those 1500 amps peak output?
Inside there is only a 12V / 38Ah sealed lead acid battery...
If our OEM battery is 12V / 80Ah and can give 700CCA, how can a 38Ah battery can give 1500A?

alex_pescaru wrote:

Are you sure about those 1500 amps peak output?
Inside there is only a 12V / 38Ah sealed lead acid battery...
If our OEM battery is 12V / 80Ah and can give 700CCA, how can a 38Ah battery can give 1500A?

Read here.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/jump-start-4000 Freelander2 GS TD4 Manual in Lago Grey .Roof Mount DVD 9.2''Screen~Window Tints~Parrot CK3100 Bluetooth~Retro Fit Sony Satnav~iPhone Dashmount~Side Steps~Woodco Armrest~Mudflaps~Land Rover Sunglass Holder~LED Interior Lights~Private Plate.Evoque Collected 17th Sept 2012.


Also Audi TT Roadster.

Yeah, sure...

And the marmot... it puts the chocolate in the aluminium foil...

On advice from a LRA person some years ago to buy jump leads with electronics protection,

I bought Sealey PROJ2512v booster cables.

The reason given was that as I had a Land Rover, I was more likely to be asked to jump start other peoples' cars.
Their cars might have 'dirty electronics, spikes?' and I should use jump leads that would offer protection to my electronics.

He was correct, I have been asked several times to jump start vehicles.

#1 or 0 gauge wires makes great booster cables. 1973 Land Rover Series 3 88''
2010 Land Rover Lr2

Been to that factory and seen the marmot working.......nice guy!

Yeah, 1500 is a big number....but I can't deny that the Jumpstart has a hell of a kick! John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

If your a Costco member they do a good set of jump leads for about £29.00 ??
If these don't start a Land Rover you have problem !!

E-bay have a set of the same cost a little more ??? There not bad for the price.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Juice-Ultimate-P...27c386609d

Thanks for all the input people....went for the Juice leads in the end...£24.50 inc shipping (Amazon). Should keep me out of mischief over the Winter...  Foraging near Gaydon....
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MY13 HSE Lux SD4, Baltic Blue - current, 30,000> miles without fault
MY12 HSE 2.2 SD4, Sumatra Black - gone after 10 months/43,000 fault-free miles

I have to laugh when I see 1500 Amps quoted from a silly little 38Ah battery or whatever they fit. The figure of 1500 Amps in measured at zero volts. In other words, to arrive at that figure, they have a clamp tester around the jump leads while they are short circuited. You might get 1500 Amps for about 1 second before the donor battery collapses and goes bang!

I got a set of leads of ebay years ago, I think they are rated upto 2.5L diesel cars. When jump starting a car how do you avoid "spikes"? Is it best to follow the handbook? ie. clamp the negative lead to a metal point on the engine or is there a better way for jump starting from car to car? Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

More importantly, much more importantly.

Do not under any circumstances rev either cars.

I cannot emphasise this enough.

It will destroy the alternator.
For many years I was a forklift truck "engineer" (I thought you had to have a degree to earn that title?) every winter I would spend the first part of the day jump starting forklifts.
You have to turn the key to heat, wait for the light to go out, then turn it to start.
OR you can just turn it to start, flatten the battery and wait a couple of hours for the forklift guy to come, connect his jump leads to his Escort van, and do some simple checks for 30 mins while he waits for some charge to enter the forklift battery.
He will then say "do not rev the forklift", you then go through the first set of steps, the forklift starts, you rev the B ks of the forklift and wonder why the forklift guy calls you a and a and a
When you reved the forklift, the much bigger alternator overwhelmed the van alternator and blew the diode stack. The foklift guy then has to drive 40 miles back to the depot inthe freezing weather, without the heater, headlights, or foglights, in the hope that the battery will get him back, rather than leaving him standed in the freezing cold on the M6 for the third time that week.
Eventually I specialised in electric forklifts, in general they are inside, cleaner, and you don't end up walking down the M6 in the rain looking for a phone box several times a week.

PS the most was 9 alternators in one week by a guy that covered Merseyside. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner