Well the dealership had the car in on Friday and couldn't find anything wrong. So they have kept it over the weekend and will call me tomorrow with an update.

toby wrote:

I've had this issue on 3 occasions and on the 2nd time my car was taken into the LR dealer by LRA to be checked, and no electrical drainage problem was found.

When it happened for a 3rd time the LRA technician immediately asked me if I used the bluetooth handsfree last time I used the car, and if I turned the engine off before ending the call - which I had.

This was the cause of the problem in his opinion, and said he had come across it several times. Apparently if you turn off the engine before ending a call the Bluetooth Handsfree module doesn't get a shutdown message and as such slowly drains the battery.

I now ensure I always keep the engine on until I have finished my phone call, and to date the issue hasn't repeated itself again.

Toby.

Dealer couldn't find anything draining the battery so couldn’t diagnose a fault. I haven’t switched off the engine whilst still on the phone, so shouldn’t be that.

The only thing they could come up with is that there could be a problem with the battery which doesn’t show up on any tests, something to do with the fins in the battery. So they have fitted a new one and hopefully it won’t do it again!

This has happened to me once only. The rescue chap said it was probably the alarm, but I'm fairly sure it's because I used the tailgate button on the handset, and although the car appeared to lock itself afterwards, I don't think it did a complete shutdown. Since then I have always double locked it and had no more problems. Others have suggested the auto lights or wipers can sometimes cause a drain.
Only other occasion I've come across this was on a SAAB fitted with a non-standard radio. Turned out the radio was on all the time, listening for traffic reports.

I purchased my Freelander 2 2006 6 months old and had flat battery problems every now and again, sometimes after a long daytime run it would be flat the next day. I've had all the reasons, cock/ radio software upgrade, tow bar electrics relay, electric heater, parking sensors, other bits and pieces not shutting down etc. Every test under the sun, but nothing found. Eventually my brother in law told me the answer, he had the same problem and the AA man told him to change his phone. This he did and his flat battery was no more. I followed his advice and I have not had a flat battery for 3 years. Scoff if you like but I am a happy bunny. The problem was using the phone through blue tooth, if you walked away from the car slill using the phone, locked the car and left it for the night the electrics would not shut down. My old phone was a nokia. I hope this helps. Eddie

Can anyone suggest why the 'dealer fitted towing electrics' may cause the battery to run down?

I note that in the LR battery care manual, App B, dated 2008, it gives the quiescent drain value of <23.6 mA after the 12 or 35 mins shutdown period (depends on one or two pushes of the remote).

Then adds that this value may be higher if certain accessories are fitted, such as trailer towing module.

Maybe LR are not talking of the module itself allowing a higher drain, but what could have a higher drain of the battery by having something plugged into the 13 pin /12S socket.

An accessory plugged in to one of these sockets has a direct route to the battery.

Could be EY.

It would help if their statements were more explicit!

I know, tell me about it

Most of the discussions / answers on here vary immensely because we are interpreting the the manual differently, and on top of that different dealers give different answers to the same questions.

It's so hard to even know if you have answered correctly at times, but at least it keeps the Forum active

Dont know if this clip helps, it explains how to locate the circuit thats draining your battery.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/videos?start=...F1gijj03_0
Found this fella on Youtube. He has loads of videos. Anyway, he shows how to locate a battery draining fault. Maybe some people might have the time/patients to carry out the checks to locate their battery fault? Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

Personally I think that is an excellent video.  John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Eric the car guy has loads of videos on his site. If I had a battery problem i'd do what he said, it looks fairly straight forward. Probably save a few quid at the dealers. Black MY2013 SD4 GS Auto, Wood Company Armrest, Freel2 sticker.
Gone MY2010 Freelander 2 Manual TD4.e S, Alaska White.

My FL2 returned from full annual service fine and next day failed to start then all electrics dead. It was if the battery not there. I put jump start pack on and still totally dead. Land Rover Assist coming out tomorrow at my service dealers (Land Rover Main Agent) . No idea what's wrong and having read other posts looks like it's time to PX it for another model?

If a jump start doesn't do anything it tends to point to the main battery fuse being duff. No problem to fix but the question will be why did it fail? John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Mention has been made in this thread of trickle charging. On my motorbike I have an external connector which enables me to charge the battery and keep it topped up using an Optimax charger. This works fine for an occasionally (in Winter) used bike. As my bad weather usage of my FL2 involves a cold start, max use of lights, aircon and windscreen heater with but a 3 mile journey each way I would like to do the same sort of thing for the FL2. However, the handbook says that the battery should be removed from the car before attempting a charge. Although the bike's electronics are far simpler than the FL2 and there are no problems with gassing is it permissible to use an in situ trickle charger on an FL2?