Does anybody have a wriiten know how on removing a FL2 2.2 engine from an auto whilst leaving the transmission still fully installed?
I have the CD workshop manual which details lowering the whole engine/box module out the bottom and also details removing the transmission whilst leaving the engine in however it doesnt give the option I want.
I think theres enough space for the engine to come out on its own by hoisting upwards but would like confirmation.
(ive bought a 2010 FL2 with big ends gone)

Drop it all as one. Mucking around trying to align back up on re-install could damaged the auto box or flex-plate.

How on earth has that knocked its ends out and is it not still under warranty on a 10 plate ? or has it been abused.

It much better to remove both engine and box as one then seperate once out same goes for the install

I would agree, its a real pain in the behind getting any gearbox and engine to line up on the car, they both need to be at the roght angle and the splines need to be rotated. Get it all out for the win!

Re big ends gone, I bought the car on eBay in that state, it's previous owner never had it serviced in 34k so when the oil ran out....... I assume landrover warranty would not apply [/code] 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Hi, you say the "big ends" have gone. What is it exactly that you are trying to do? The Big ends Are the "shells" Crnkshaft bearings that the crankshaft runs in. These are usually of split design.
If "as you say the oil ran out" your going to have much more damage than these bearings. If your looking to replace parts you would be better off having the engine compleatly stripped, rebored and all new internal parts fitted and thats only if the bare block is still servicable.
The cost for all these parts upto and including camshafts etc will cost a small fortune. Cheaper to buy a reconditioned engine or for peace of mine a new compleate engine as the car is so new.

I have bought a replacement engine ex test rig complete with all fittments except it's never had alternator or aircon or power steering pump fitted.
I live at home and have an engine hoist but not any h ramp
I want to remove my engine ancillaries and hoist the engine out the top leaving the auto box in the car
Has anybody got knowledge of top removal and a schedule of how to do it? 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Hi,

To expand on your username I think you are about to provide a merry dance for yourself in terms of access and alignment.

A number of the farming community locally have platform or 4 point hoists, for their own maintenance work, and you may be able to negotiate for access. Alternatively some of the smaller ind est garage units have spare capacity on a second hoist. Finally, you could arrange a deal where you install with the help of a local small garage with labour on a price per hour basis. That would enable you to pre prep on site.

Could you explain what you mean by an ex test rig engine - whose and for what for example!

Regards Toadshall

The quickest, safest and easiest way is to drop the whole powertrain out from underneath and you cannot do this on a four poster. I'd also be interested in what your test rig engine is as usually they are shagged and no good to anyone.

Hi heliosuk,

I would be appreciative if you would be more specific.

By four poster do you mean a platform or a four point location system? I would be amazed if most modern designs of either persuasion did not allow full powertrain removal. However, I accept their may be a few designs lurking about that fall short of this.

Could you elaborate on the specific engineering constraint please and perhaps the related hoist brands.

Regards Toadshall

I suppose you could remove the gearbox and then the engine if youre concerned about the weight/bulk of the whole assembled unit?

Re mr toadshall my thoughts are to minimise dismantling intervention rather than 'constraints'
The fact that is an auto should mean no splines or shafts to align which the manual has. I
As I see it having unbolted the flex plate I only have to move the engine say 30mm to the left to clear the bell housing
The advantage is no draining the auto, no removing drive shafts (with risks of seal damage and needing extractors).
There is enough clearance to shunt the engine to the drivers chassis leg however it's the rear clearance for the turbo which looks more difficult.
I'm still hoping that somebody has done top lift 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Removing the engine from the auto box has to be taken with extreme care, otherwise damage to the front pump and converter seal could occur or buckling of the flex plate. It would be much better to take it all out the bottom and take car to separate and reconnect.
When re-mating the auto box if the converter slips slightly and disengages from one of its sets of splines and you bolt up the flex plate you can screw the auto box good and proper ! seen a few done in past years.

To be honest the convertor must be supported with a bar tool as soon as it comes out of the flex plate spigot,

I would be interested to know what test rig the engine came from because when i was involved with engine test rigs they were absolutely hammered to the max 24/7 & used for testing fuels, and oils etc. When they were removed and stripped they were past normal rebuilding parameters and we used to end up metal spraying cranks and actually re-lining blocks !

I did see this way how to remove an engine (may be not what your looking for

Toadshall wrote:

Hi heliosuk,

I would be appreciative if you would be more specific.

By four poster do you mean a platform or a four point location system? I would be amazed if most modern designs of either persuasion did not allow full powertrain removal. However, I accept their may be a few designs lurking about that fall short of this.

Could you elaborate on the specific engineering constraint please and perhaps the related hoist brands.

Regards