Fist off I would like to say hi as a new member
I have recently bought a 08 GS manual in grey 1 owner 50 thou full dealer
Service history . I bought it from an independent landrover dealer,in the last week it
started making a cluncking noise from the rear when on lock either forward or reverse
So I booked it into my local main dealer this morning for diagnosis ,whilst on the ramps
The technician noticed that the rear prop shaft has tried to tear itself apart where it joins on to
The haldex unit and has sprayed grease out everywhere, looking at the condition of it and the amount
Of rust on it this hasn't just happened, bearing in mind they told me that it had a full service and pdi
Check before i picked it up is pretty shocking
So my question is has any one seen this before ?
And what would of happened to cause this ?
Is it a possibility that the haldex unit is shot ?
Any help would be most appreciated
Thanks Martin

Sounds like a knackered haldex unit to be honest. Unfortunately it's fairly common on FL2's of your year and before. If the state of parts underneath proves there was a problem before you bought the car then you are within your rights to take it back to the garage who sold you it and ask for a repair free of charge. There are laws in place to look after you in this respect.

The inspecting dealer should be able to give you an opinion as to whether the damage would have been there before you got the vehicle.

Welcome to the forum, hopefully you'll get a solution soon. Mine: 2012 Golf GTI Edition 35
Family's: 2009 Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto, Stornoway

Yorkshire - God's County

Take it back to the dealer you bought it off! * GONE. GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* GONE.2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Rocket ship. 33mpg.
* Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

agreed, take it back.

The dealer will most likely do one of two things...

The "low level" fix, replacing just the bearings on the input shaft and the oil seals

Replace the whole haldex unit if any damage has occurred.

Some people have said in here that it was enough to replace the bearing on the propshaft, others have said that it wasnt enough, and that the diff had suffered so much as a result that it needed to be replaced. It may be worth letting the dealer know that the bearing fix may not be enough and he may have to take it back to replace everything else again. Who knows, maybe he will just replace the whole thing from the get-go.

Good luck, dont be an arse to the dealer until you really need to be, people that behave like gentlemen will normally get better customer service. (not so much that they take a lend of you mind!)

Thanks for the replies I have taken it back this morning and pointed
Out what the technician had found ! How will I know how much he has replaced?
Say he only changes the prop shaft and doesn't change any thing on the haldex
Unit ?
The landrover technician took photos of it all as evidence
Thanks Martin

As I understand it, The 'low level fix' is to do with the input pinion bearing into the rear diff. This is to solve the bearing whine from the rear diff and is the cheap option against a complete diff exchange. This unit does not bold directly to the propshaft.

What you seem to have is a Haldex problem, The haldex unit sits between the rear propshaft and in bolted to the diff. It sounds like the input seal at least has failed. This has lead to the haldex unit running low or dry of oil. The clunking is probably due to the friction plates sticking which are designed to run in oil, or the dry bearings complaining when they are torque loaded.

It's really not your problem because it should be sorted by the garage you bought it from, but there was probably another reason why the seal leaked. It could have been a rear propshapt rear CV failure for example, loading the haldex input bearing, destroying it and failing the seal.

It will probably take a replacement haldex at least, but don't allow them to stop there! The rear propshaft rear CV should be checked, Also the front IRD for swarf/chips as an uncontrolled amount of torque has been applied to the drivetrain mainly during tight turns allowing 'wind-up'.

Good luck and thanks for sharing with us. Freelander 1 HSE TD4 Manual in Falklands
Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto in Chile

Thanks for the reply rockhoper  it seems like some thing
Must have jamed at the rear because the part of the prop that
Bolts to the haldex unit has twisted making it split do you think I would
Be better off rejecting the car and asking for my money back from what you have said
It could of affected alot of components which I dought they will want to change
Thanks Martin 

Yes MJD, throw it back at them and claim your money back. I know this is messy but it's the best way for you. There are plenty more FL2's out there, and I hope you go for another one because they are an amazing piece of kit.

Get any kind of help you can with claiming your money back, but there are too many pieces of expensive engineering that could have been damaged in your car with this energy being disipated through the drivetrain. Sorry for your seller but this is their life and they probably have insurance for this. They need to build their buying skill to avoid this in the future. Not your problem. Freelander 1 HSE TD4 Manual in Falklands
Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Auto in Chile

Haldex units have been known to fail = very expensive.
The older cars had a 3rd generation unit, simpler but heavier on fuel, the newer cars have the 4th generation unit. Not absolutly sure but I think if a 3rd generation unit fails, LR replace them with a 4th generation unit, but it requires a software modification as they operate in a different way (newer is at much lower pressure).

Trust me on this one, "normall" driving will not damage the Haldex unit, enthusiastic off-road driving will not damage the Haldex unit. That leaves two options, either the unit was faulty from day one, or some numpty has driven it around for a LONG time in one of the terrain options (sand?) on tarmac. This would be similar to locking the center diff on a conventional 4x4, on tarmac the tyres can't unload the different rotational distances so the transmission is overloaded.

If the seller is prepared to let it go to a LR dealer for specialist repair (this should be replacementof failed unit), then why not?
If not run away. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

You are well within your rights to ask for your money back so long as it wasn't months ago. Can't remember the cut off period.
Simply ask for your full refund. If they refuse, tell them you are going straight to your solicitor, local trading standards, Watchdog and the good old intenet to pour scorn on them!  * GONE. GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* GONE.2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Rocket ship. 33mpg.
* Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

Hi MJD.
Just wondering what the outcome was from your original dealer?

Russben. Poke it, Poke it, make it do it again!!

Gone - 2008 Freel2 HSE Santorini Black
Hello - 2010 RRS TDV6 3.0 HSE Santorini Black

Hi M J D
My mate had a similar issue last summer.
Bought a car from a small non-franchise dealer and we discovered it had a blown head gasket.
He got another garage to confirm the problem (not sure if they supplied a written description though).
Anyway, he first went to CAB and they passed him onto the local trading standards.
They were fantastic and helped him all the way with telling him exactly how to approach the dealer.
What helped was he managed to talk to the previous owner who confirmed the dealer knew the car had a fault when they had it and said they would sign a statement if need be (I don't think it went that far).
As soon as the LTS heard this they said this is a classic case of vehicle not fit for purpose.
As soon as the dealer heard that the LTS were in on it they paid up and also paid for the new exhaust he had put on it.
Hope this helps
Gor fot it