Hi there

I've tried to search on this, but there are so many tyre threads!

At the weekend, I replaced my front tyres. Continental Cross Contact UHP.
The rears are still ok (same tyres), with about 3-4mm of tread.

The tyre place asked if they 'had' to go on the back of the Freelander 2. I looked in the manual and it just says change them in pairs so I said no,

Now I seem to have a vibration coming through the car when accelerating - 2k rpm isn, and the car feels decidedly skittish at times. I'm just wondering if I should swap them to the back. I know that's the current thinking that your best tyres should be at the rear to prevent oversteer.

Thanks in advance.

Alan MY10 TD4.e HSE
Bali Blue

Were they balanced corectly? were the old balance weight removed first then rebalanced with new weights?

Realspeed Ex 2010 Freelander2 GS-e Diesel manual Silver owner

@realspeed
Yep, they were balanced correctly as you describe.
Vibration isn't really speed related, more engine speed around 2 to 2.5k when accelerating.

Alan MY10 TD4.e HSE
Bali Blue

Not being funny but they have tightened the nuts correctly?

I might be wrong, but I thought the new tyres should go on the back. Something to do with the greater diameter of new tyres over the worn ones upsetting the 'haldex' drive unit. I know that was the case with the Freelander1 model.

Current thinking is new tyres should be fitted to the back, as most people can correct a front wheel skid with worn front tyres, but if the back broke away with worn rears & new fronts then they would most likely lose control of the car. Poke it, Poke it, make it do it again!!

Gone - 2008 Freel2 HSE Santorini Black
Hello - 2010 RRS TDV6 3.0 HSE Santorini Black

Other threads have thrown doubt on the truth of what's printed in the owners manual as there is so much misinformation in it, but it does say 'if you don't replace all four then do it in pairs', front or rear is not mentioned so I guess if you're a believer, it doesn't matter.

Regarding the vibration, when the fronts were removed, did the wheels go back on their correct axle side, if not then an alignment problem may be causing it. Try swapping the fronts from side to side maybe

russben wrote:

I might be wrong, but I thought the new tyres should go on the back. Something to do with the greater diameter of new tyres over the worn ones upsetting the 'haldex' drive unit. I know that was the case with the Freelander1 model.

Current thinking is new tyres should be fitted to the back, as most people can correct a front wheel skid with worn front tyres, but if the back broke away with worn rears & new fronts then they would most likely lose control of the car.

The LR Dealer who supplied my FL2 said it didn't matter if new tyres were put on the front or back, unlike the Freelander 1. The debate on whether to fit new tyres to the front or rear will possibly go on and on (I'm having two fitted to the front this weekend).

Speaking to MOT fitter and mechanic he was saying that he had just motd a freelander 2 and the bloke told him he had to get his diff replaced then there was a problem with diff so took it back to LR dealer they were sorting it but noticed he had new tyre on one side other part warn dealer said they would not cover all cost of sorting diff out as unequal tyre tread so that affected diff so he had to stump up some of the cost of sorting replacement diff out, don't know if dealer trying it on but mechanic had no reason to lie to me. ( no they don't do tyres) so my advice would be change in pairs and either sell the other one or keep as spares

FL1 had a different ratio for back wheels compared to front, on the early ones this ratio was greater.
Between the axles is a coupling filled with a fuild that stiffens if it encounters a set amount of slip. There is not enough slip caused by the different ratios, but should a wheel slip this sends it over the limit and it locks up, giving you 4 wheel drive.

The early ones were very close to the limit, larger tyres on the front were enough to send it over the limit so they were in permenant 4 wheel drive - shortly after fitting new tyres to the front mechanical damage would ensue (40 miles and mine threw the diff oil out).

The FL2 has a completely different "center coupling" (it's at the rear), this is hydraulic and is not suseptable to the "new front tyres" issue of the FL1.
So mechanically they can be fitted at either end, there are other debates on which is best for steering/traction. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

The original tyres (replaced) were continental cross contact UHP 235/55 19 extra load, and the ones that the tyre fitter put on were cross contact UHPE (same size), a later version with lower rolling resistance I have since found out.

With the new tyres on the front, the car felt very strange - skittish in corers and on the overrun with some vibration under acceleration.

As an experiment, at the weekend, I swapped the new tyres to the rear.
When I had the new wheel and tyre next to an old wheel and tyre off the car - they looked distinctly different in size. Even SWMBO who popped out with a cuppa mid swap (bless her) said (unprompted), "They are different sizes."

Even allowing for the difference in tread depth (top and bottom) they did look significantly different. Swapped them anyway as it was too late to do much else, and I was interested.

Car was different, but not right. Still did not feel secure, and at constant motorway speed, had a 'hiccup' every 200 to 300 yards - felt like the diff wasn't happy.

Went to the tyre dealer yesterday, and swapped my remaining two part worns for another 2 UHPEs. Car is fine now. They did all the thing about new tread versus old tread with me, but I maintain the tyres were visibly different. By the way, the remaining two worn tyres were only about 1/2 worn.

So, my assessment:
Cross Contact UHP and Cross Contact UHPE are a different proposition, even in the exact same size, speed and load rating. Would advise not to mix them - even in axle pairs.
Will try to rotate the tyres front to back more often, and save up for a 4 tyre swap.

Just the £660 on tyres this month then!

Alan MY10 TD4.e HSE
Bali Blue

I'm surprised by this difference in wear front to back. I bought mine with (I think) the original set of Goodyears, and the wear was and remained even, right down to 3mm. I then bought three new ones and put those on plus the spare, which was brand new, and again the wear so far is even - down to about 5mm now. Maybe it's something to do with driving style, or possibly with extra weight on the back when towing?

I've just put a new pair of 19" Contis on the rear, the fronts still have about 3mm but my rears have worn quicker than the fronts, but no handling problems.

now i am confused so how do you go on when you have a punchure because you are fitting a less worn tyre on the same axle as a more worn one if that was the case whats the point of buying a spare wheel /tyre  rainy-city
xs

I assume you'd use a modicum of common sense; keep the mileage to a minimum and get the puncture fixed pronto. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.