Anyone changed an Alternator on a TD4 or does anyone have a procedure to do this?
Chap at work has just changed his and I am told it was a 'dockyard' job. Big strip down. Looking at the access on the TD4 I can understand it.

Yes, it's quite laborious, but in the same time easy to work on.
You need to take out the fuel filter and its shield.
Then you need to take out the steering pump and its reservoir.
And then you can easily access the generator and take it out.

Alex,

Thanks for the info. Any idea how I slacken and retention the drive belt? (I suppose I should buy a maintenance CD of E-Bay).

Thanks,

Chris

Eurolandy wrote:

I suppose I should buy a maintenance CD of E-Bay

No, take it from here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2l541mjy2ttzjx1/pRDTCGLKYM

And for removing accessories belt, see below:

Alex,

Great, many thanks.

Chris

alex thanx for the manual_thingy!!!! helped a lot with my steering issue.. picked a whining noise on the steering pump when driving for a while, and found it to be the pump itself, variable vane pump-camring got stuck, causing over pressure.... looks like welding spatter got stuck between the ring and the vanes

Re the alternator, I removed mine as part of engine change work . To add to Alex' comments I removed the top engine mount casting to give me space to put the power steering pump out of the way to enable reaching the alternator. Please note that you do not have to drain or disconnect pipes for the power steering, just tuck it away and use plastic tywraps.
You may be able to ease the pump clear without the engine mount plate removal, it was just part of my more major job. The plate I describe is just the big flat plate to which the arm is attached, it might need the engine supporting.
.
Hope this helps
Kind regards from Fred
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

For my 2010 TD4 FL2, I followed a mixture of the tips above and it went well, no foul language or injuries. So I am grateful for the posts which allowed me to plan the job and get it done in a couple of hours.

1. Removed engine cover
2. Removed diesel filter
3. Removed diesel filter housing (four bolts)
4. Removed the OSF wheel and wheel arch panel to allow access to the ancillary belt
5. Rotated the belt tensioner to allow the belt to be removed
6. Removed the three bolts holding the power steering pump in place and unclipped the fluid reservoir from its mounting. Then moved the power steering pump and resevoir out of the way up by the coolant reservoir. Held it in place with a cable tie
7. Removed the two alternator electrical connectors
8. Removed the 2 alternator bolts. The lower one through the wheel arch (first need to remove the idler pulley held in by one torx bolt, as it obscures the head of the lower alternator bolt), the upper bolt from from above.
9. Levered the alternator off its mounts with prybar and lifted it up through the space created by moving the power steering pump - no problems at all - plenty of clearance

New alternator installed through the reverse of the steps above.

Quote:

For my 2010 TD4 FL2, I followed a mixture of the tips above and it went well, no foul language or injuries. So I am grateful for the posts which allowed me to plan the job and get it done in a couple of hours.....
New alternator installed through the reverse of the steps above.