Hi,

Wheel studs are replaceable ? I hope yes ... Or I must buy the entire hub assembly ?
If yes, please tell me what is the Land Rover part number.

Thanks,
Atlas

You must buy the whole wheel hub with bearings and all...
For front, part number LR003157 http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=150018
For rear, part number LR001127 http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=148898

Or maybe a smart locksmith/turner can make you a new stud and replace it...
Sure you can find a good one here...
But better, buy a new hub.

How did it happen?
Don't tell me they've used an air impact wrench gun and "Dorel" damaged the the thread....

It seems that for some of the wheel nuts and studs thread is partially damaged. Some can be rotated easily by hand, but very little. What is strange is that after a few miles some nuts gets stuck in place, then the phenomenon is back.

Ahaaaa.... Wait a minute...
Take into account that the nuts' shiny silver exterior is only a cover!!!
And because of the nut's usage, this cover can become a little loose and move a little on the real nut that is below... This is why they feel like they can be rotated very little... In fact you only move/rotate the cover...

Thanks Alex ! Good news, you saved me 500 euro

Then I'll try to replace all the nuts. But what It's not clear for me is why when you rotate the upper part, the thread is also rotating, and only the lower part it remain fixed ? From how many parts a nut is composed ?

Just about 3...
The threaded nut, its shiny cover (which should be glued together and form a single piece) and the conical part that should rotate in report with the first too.
Just take one out and examine it...

Thanks!

On the subject of wheel nuts, what possessed Land Rover - with all their off-roading heritage - to use nuts that are 'blind'? Imagine: it's late at night and you're changing a wheel on the side of a road out in the sticks...and you drop one of the nuts into the grit in the curb. Now, if you're not aware of the potential for disaster, you'll screw this nut on, tighten it up and drive off....not realising that all you've done is tightened the stud's end against the muddy grit in the end of the nut - there's a reasonable chance it's not even touching the wheel!

Now, switch it all around so that the user removes studs and these studs screw into the hub - whose screw threads run through to the back of the hub - and you have zero chance of this wobbly wheel syndrome ever happening.

Yes, these blind nuts do look nice - but exactly the same effect could be achieved using removable studs wrapped with the same tin foil.

Got to agree that blind nuts are pretty but a liability.

But PLEASE don't go down the cheapskate route of wheel bolts. These wheels are heavy, I swap the road tyres for muds and back again every couple of weeks, balancing the whhel on the hub and trying to fit a wheel bolt is ....... annoying? Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Andy131 wrote:

Got to agree that blind nuts are pretty but a liability.

But PLEASE don't go down the cheapskate route of wheel bolts. These wheels are heavy, I swap the road tyres for muds and back again every couple of weeks, balancing the whhel on the hub and trying to fit a wheel bolt is ....... annoying?

That'll be the 20+ years I spent fixing forklifts, lifting solid wheels - non of this filled with air rubbish.

To be honest the easiest way is to roll a wheel onto a shovel, slide shovel into place, and lift using the extra leverage the long handle gives you. Still who but me carries a shovel in the back of thier FL2 at all times?

If I got rid of the extra jack, full tool set, recovery gear, and programming kit do you think the fuel economy would improve? Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Andy131 wrote:

If I got rid of the extra jack, full tool set, recovery gear, and programming kit do you think the fuel economy would improve?