Yes thanks andy very helpful 07my Freelander 2 HSE TD4 Baltic Blue,Privacy Glass,Ebony black leather,Land rover detachable towbar,S/S Side bars,Climair wind deflectors,Bramble Rash,

Just got my Freelander2 (57) back from the garage and it's still not repaired!! So any help at all would be really appreciated.

I was driving along when all of a sudden the fuel gauge and estimated mileage remaining both dropped to zero. Both have been fluctuating ever since??

The garage have put the Freelander onto a diagnostic test - which came back clear?? They have also checked all the wiring under the fuel tank. Taken all the clips out cleaned them and put them back (hoping this would sort it - and I say hoping as they do not seem to have a clue ..)!

Their next suggestion is to replace the fuel sender unit but from doing a Google search and reading a few posts I'm not entirely sure this is the answer??

Please help

I remember cars from years gone by that had a rubber disc type thing in the floor under the rear seats, doesn't the FL2 have these  ______________________
2011 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8
2012 FL2 SD4 Auto HSE
2013 Kawasaki Versys 650

The Freelnder doesn't have a rubber bung, probably to do with wading depth?
It's a propshaft off and drop the tank as it straddles the propshaft.

Dave wrote:

I remember cars from years gone by that had a rubber disc type thing in the floor under the rear seats, doesn't the FL2 have these

There is a rubber bung under the offside rear seat squab.
It is large enough to fit the tank sender through.
It happens not to line up with the tank sender - I kid you not
The tank sender also has a polistyrene moulding above it that would stop you extracting the sender through the hole if it did line up properly - I was tempted, tried it took the tank back out and refitted it.
Even if it all did line up, and the cheap plastic bit wasn't fitted, the retaining ring that you have to remove either need a special tool or a hammer and blunt chisel - this is best done with the tank removed.
There are two senders - replace both, don't mess about. I have the old ones in the garage, they both test fine, but the faulty reading has gone away, so changing them both has cured the fault, like many electrical low voltage problems it is intermittant, and short of a complete failure, substitution is the only option.

Remember it is a saddle tank, even if you manage to pump the tank dry there will be a lot (15litres?) of fuel left in the other side when you drop the tank, it will be heavy.
Remote sender is fun to install, second time around would be easier, still best done with the tank out and free to rotate. Approx cost £200 parts, £800 labour +VAT. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Hi

I had a problem with my fuel gauge reading it had no fuel in when really it did. Initially, a computer update was uploaded, then the wiring was checked and then they finally replace the fuel sender unit. £900 later it's all working. Expensive job!

Andy131 wrote:

There are two senders - replace both, don't mess about. I have the old ones in the garage, they both test fine, but the faulty reading has gone away, so changing them both has cured the fault, like many electrical low voltage problems it is intermittant, and short of a complete failure, substitution is the only option.

Remote sender is fun to install, second time around would be easier, still best done with the tank out and free to rotate. Approx cost £200 parts, £800 labour +VAT.

See post at the bottom of the link
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic12990.html? p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

Be careful, there are two types of pumps, for cars with fire burner heater and without.

I've a '07 SE model with faulty fuel gauge, my local mechanic replaced both senders but now the guage does not read full, when in fact the tank is brim full.

I've disconnected battery for a while to 'reset' but still no joy.

Here is a pic taken when the tank was filled.

Any suggestions?


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It's possible that one sender is not properly mounted, maybe the floating arm is not allowed to move freely inside the tank.

I had both units replaced a few days ago and my indicator is reading fine. I saw when the mechanic had replaced the sender units and it was quite difficult to fix in position the LH sender (the one attached on a long arm). I doubt that you have to recalibrate something for that.

Also it was necessary on the new pump to cut the tip of one of the small yellow pipes that is attached to the yellow plastic. I suppose it's the breather pipe.

Can a moderator merge both threads related to the fuel tank sender ?

one of the fuel senders could be restricted.
Either the remote one, because it is a to get in, or the active side, because there is a lot of things it can get hooked up on.
Check the resistance readings, they should be the same if the tanks are full - between 50-1020 Ohms.

The connector is under the rear seat, remove big rubber bung, and it is clearly visible.

Click image to enlarge