If the EGR valve is stuck open it shouldn't make any difference when accelerating but will cause rough idling or even stalling of the engine when stationary.

If it is the EGR valve then it is more likely stuck in the closed position. ______________________
2011 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8
2012 FL2 SD4 Auto HSE
2013 Kawasaki Versys 650

Dave wrote:

If the EGR valve is stuck open it shouldn't make any difference when accelerating but will cause rough idling or even stalling of the engine when stationary.

If it is the EGR valve then it is more likely stuck in the closed position.

Either way Dave it is going to get a serious pasting with a suitable cleaner.....

When you can find it  ______________________
2011 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8
2012 FL2 SD4 Auto HSE
2013 Kawasaki Versys 650

Dave wrote:

When you can find it

True...................

Dave wrote:

If the EGR valve is stuck open it shouldn't make any difference when accelerating but will cause rough idling or even stalling of the engine when stationary.

If it is the EGR valve then it is more likely stuck in the closed position.

It is my No2, the TD5 doesn't have all the gizmo's to monitor the recirculated gasses does it

My description is correct though, the EGR valve opens only when the engine is up to operating temperature and accelerating. It is possible that is stuck partly open  ______________________
2011 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8
2012 FL2 SD4 Auto HSE
2013 Kawasaki Versys 650

as far as i am aware egr valve opens at all temps and shuts when engine gets to 2,000 rpm and above then re opens when revs get below 2,000rpm i think the main problem is to days fuels and the low cetain rating of modern diesel fuel i do recall that when the dpf fitted l/rovers first came out i asked a question on an experance day about what fuel theyb was using and the answer was one of the performance diesel fuels as they burn cleaner than standard fuel so blocking egrs may be a result of using none performance diesel fuel it still does not explane why i have 3 x egr replacements in 21k rainy-city
xs

Has anyone actually removed their EGR for cleaning, if so was it an easy job? or......can it be done in situ with the Wynns type cleaner?


Tell me it's an easy 20 minute job/fix!

No bigalf you're wrong. The valve is shut at low revs but opens at higher revs. The purpose is to cool the engine and thus emit less NOx. More info including a diagram and description at http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic12683.html.
Because it lowers the oxygen in the mix it actually makes the engine less efficient.

If your EGR is sticking in either way then this will create an inbalance and the ECU should pick up on this and store a fault code. This would be my first course of action to see if any such codes have been stored.
If no codes have been stored try undoing the drain on the fuel filter as there may be a build up of water in the filter causing a fuel starvation to the engine.
Are the quick release fuel lines fitted properly as air could be being drawn into the system. Then theres always the air filter could be partly blocked.
Its possable that you could have a faulty injector this also would store a fault code on the ECU

superspark wrote:

If your EGR is sticking in either way then this will create an inbalance and the ECU should pick up on this and store a fault code. This would be my first course of action to see if any such codes have been stored.
If no codes have been stored try undoing the drain on the fuel filter as there may be a build up of water in the filter causing a fuel starvation to the engine.
Are the quick release fuel lines fitted properly as air could be being drawn into the system. Then theres always the air filter could be partly blocked.
Its possable that you could have a faulty injector this also would store a fault code on the ECU

Hi there superspark.......had the car mot'd today and asked them to do a diagnostic check, the only fault shown was the mass air flow meter? Recently done a service so the air filter has been replaced, can the fuel filter be drained in situ without running the risk of introducing more air into the filter? As I understand it the hex screw on the upper housing has to be raised just slightly?

Back to the air flow meter......could this cause these issues? last time I had one go on a Vectra it went into limp mode

Hi, in short yes and yes. Yes the Mass air flow sensor needs to be working correctly or the incorrect mixture will enter the engine causing a incorrect burn.
The system needs to constantly make adjustments for various driving conditions placed on the engine.
The fuel filter has a plastic hex key that will allow you to drain off any water that has collected there.
Under normal conditions this only needs doing once then the filter is changed on the second service.

Hi, in short yes and yes. Yes the Mass air flow sensor needs to be working correctly or the incorrect mixture will enter the engine causing a incorrect burn.
The system needs to constantly make adjustments for various driving conditions placed on the engine.
The fuel filter has a plastic hex key that will allow you to drain off any water that has collected there.
Under normal conditions this only needs doing once then the filter is changed on the second service.

superspark wrote:

Hi, in short yes and yes. Yes the Mass air flow sensor needs to be working correctly or the incorrect mixture will enter the engine causing a incorrect burn.
The system needs to constantly make adjustments for various driving conditions placed on the engine.
The fuel filter has a plastic hex key that will allow you to drain off any water that has collected there.
Under normal conditions this only needs doing once then the filter is changed on the second service.

Filter done, held my breath when attempting to start it afterwards but all was ok and seeing as I was on a roll/feeling like a smart arse I decided to clean the MAF sensor too. So...................in short, I have put copious ammounts of Redex/STP in the fuel, emptied a can of EGR cleaner through it, cleaned the crank sensor, purged the fuel filter and lastly cleaned the MAF sensor. I am pleased to say the car is much better now than it has been in quite a while, the hesitation is mostly gone and it seems to pull better from lower in the rev range. I would like to say it is cured but there is still just a hint of hesitation as opposed to it being very noticeable (bloody annoying). I've only drove about 30 miles since but have approx 150 miles to drive tomorrow so will have a better idea of things are.

Will report back, and thanks

had three egr replaced on mine in less than two yrs last ne changed at23k no fault codes were stored in system when the egr goes fauldy they do a idle pressure test mine failed on that and pointed to the egr valve at fast ide the car passed the test that was done above 2,000 rpm rainy-city
xs