Firstly I am aware of the risk of the clutch detonating like a nuclear bomb when towing but I want tips anyway. Recovery towing might be called upon with my Peak 4x4 duties at some stage and their insurance covers call out duties even if mine doesn't cover towing.

1. What are the licence issues? I passed my test in 2003 and have heard that some can't legally tow. (I am going to dig out my licence to check the necessary bits but want your views anyway)

2. What is the best tow rope? I spotted an elastic one that can cope with towing up to 4 tonnes at halfords for £25

3. The conditions are likely to involve snow. What are the tips generally? Set off in 1st or try pulling away in 2nd? I assume the car being towed still needs the driver to accelerate?

Complete novice so getting some tips here and planning on trying towing before adverse weather to get a feel for things.

Any thoughts? LL.B (Hons) - University of Derby
LOT (Lord of Time) - University of Gallifrey

mmmm

Can of worms!

You want a decent tow rope that has a bit of give in it. It much reduces snatching. Avoid kinetic ropes, they can be nasty. Aim for a minimum of three times the weight of the car

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24mm-4x4-Nylon-R...3cc8a1f682

If you are towing a car that is stuck in snow then usually it helps if they are in SECOND gear and have their wheels turning. They must not accelerate too much or they will gain traction and go into the back of your vehicle! Many idiots panic and floor it - worst thing they could do.

You want to be in first gear and let the computer do its thing. My old FL2 was good in snow and the computer won't let you rev the balls off things. You MAY need to turn DSC off but leave it on to start with.

If you passed your test after 1997 then you need an extra test (B+E) to tow a trailer over 750kg. There is an exemption for towing another vehicle in emergencies.

If it was me I'd stick something like this on the front loop on your car and the same if you are going to use the rear loop (my preference is the rear towbar)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STEEL-WINCH-3-8-...41687bc087

Last edited by dunroof on 23rd Jul 2012 10:38 pm. Edited 1 time in total

dunroof wrote:

I'd avoid if possible. Ignoring the clutch issues, who ever your towing in the likes of snow, might not be able to stop and reshape the rear of your car. I know several Police Forces that won't allow their own vehicles to tow for liability issues...

I would agree, and the chances are they got stuck in the first place due to their lack of driving skills/road awareness, etc

leave recovery to the professionals, who have the proper expertise and equipment

Iain

To recover vehicles you should have Level 3 NVQ in Roadside Assistants & Recovery. Basically just to cover your arse incase the poo hits the fan.

I thought responce was involving transporting people etc?? You risk damaging your vehicle by attempting to try and recover vehicles, leave that to the authorised recovery specialists!

Also any recovery equipment and shackles stuff like that should be tested on a yearly basis for health and safety purposes

Thanks

You are right Mike, the response group is for ferrying people about but I have been told that if you encounter a car that can't get up a hill and you want to help (damsel in distress perhaps), you phone it in to the controller and then try and tow them. No obligation on this because some won't want to for the reasons you guys highlighted.

That said, a chap in a Defender and another chap in a Suzuki Grand Vitara have towed in snow before for the group but I think I would prefer to get some sort of qualification and experience first. LL.B (Hons) - University of Derby
LOT (Lord of Time) - University of Gallifrey

dunroof wrote:

who ever your towing in the likes of snow, might not be able to stop and reshape the rear of your car.

quite often cars are damaged when towed out of ditches etc by tractors.sometimes the ungrateful rescuees even try and claim damages from the helpful farmer involved.
So if some unknown arrives at my farm asking for a tow, I simply ask him for his details so I can claim damages to my hedge etc, then let him wait for a tow truck At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Last time I was asked was at a BBC sponsored garden party somewhere in East Anglia. Someone asked who was the owner of the Disco down the lane. Moment of horror as this tends to mean "I've just backed into it" or similar. But it turned out to be the owner of the OTHER Disco who had parked in the ditch and couldn't get out. As a fellow owner I felt honour bound to help out, to the cheers of a large number of people. Alas the BBC didn't bother to film it. At least towing a Disco meant I could get him to put it in low ratio to minimise the danger of it shooting forwards and hitting me. Also once towed an army Land Rover out of a bog - claimed he didn't understand low ratio as he was used to driving tanks. I saved his dignity by giving it a gentle tug rather than just driving it out for him.
If you do tow somebody, give them very careful instructions about what to do/not do, and as Alex says, use a BAR if at all possible, as it gives you far more control.

Wow, I guess I'm in the minority here.

Firstly, I've towed/recovered probably at least two dozen vehicles with my LR2. I've towed x6 utility trailers, I've towed a mate's disco 25 miles to help, I've pulled defenders and pickups out of the mud, and every winter I help about a dozen hapless travelers get unstuck in the snow around Tahoe.

Never had any damage. I'd rather tow something in my LR2 than my 95 defender. Much more powerful engine.

Stuff I always do:
- for recoveries use a high quality snatch strap. I'd never use a tow bar for recoveries. That's a sure way to damage the vehicle as the snatch strap absorbs shocks. Here's mine: http://www.amazon.com/ARB-Snatch-Strap-30-24000lbs/dp/B0010E1MGG.
- I ask the stuck vehicle to stay in first, 2,000 rpm (petrol)
- I show them the destination and tell them "that's where you should stop.". You want to recover to firm ground so that they don't get stock again.
- NEVER recover or tow by hooking the tow strap directly to the tow ball (probably also applies to a swan neck. They don't have those out here)
- for recoveries there's little chance of them hitting you. Tows are a different matter.
- for tows use a tow strap ( or maybe a tow bar - never used one)
- on downhill slopes ask the towed vehicle to do the braking. It's good to share radios.
- when I recover I ALWAYS get the consent of the owner to any possible damage. I explain to them the risks and make it clear that I'm not responsible.
- always start in first
- when towing take it easy and watch your heat on the hill climbs

Finally, if you're going to do a long stressful tow (I've only done one -- in an emergency) check first to see what gear you should be in. Many trucks have a "tow gear" where the torque converter isn't stressed. Often it's 4th gear (which is what I've used in the past). It'd be good yo know for sure. Installed a hitch, stock roof rack, mantec skid plates, General Grabbers AT2 255/60/R18, and a rear access ladder. Also made a hitch-mount for the winch. Looking to install a front hitch, rooft-top basket, and lift kit.

Tracking modifications and off-road experiences here: http://sam.odio.com/lr2/

dont get stuck in the first place  rainy-city
xs

I remember towing someone in the snow many years ago !
I said are you confident and do you know what to do Yeah Yeah Yeah came the response !

As i towed on a rope down the road the guy tried to jump start his RWD car buy letting the clutch out ! whilst we were doing about 30 in thick snow ! instantly the car tank slapped every car down the street HARD !seem to remember something like 9 or 10 cars were struck !

Do not offer to tow anyone in the snow even with a BAR un;less they are 100% confident ! and remember if they cant stop they will most likely run into the back of you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I know I'm new here but have been on Disco3/4 for ages. A comment about using the tow ball for recovery was made earlier. Please please do NOT do this. Tow balls have been known to snap under recovery conditions. They are designed for towing, not for recovery. If the tow ball detaches from the towing vehicle it can become a LETHAL projectile. Always use the recovery eyes but as has been said, this is best left to the professionals. I only know this because I teach off roading and have seen the aftermath of a snapped tow ball. Luckily it only wrecked the car being recovered. If the passenger had still been sitting in the passenger seat it could have been a different story.

Sorry to contradict someone but it's best to be safe IMHO.

No offence intended,

Best,

Steve

Use a nylon rope and not a polyprop one for recovery work. Nylon has more stretch and "give" and will snatch less.
http://www.firstfour.co.uk/products/towing.../tow-ropes * GONE. GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
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I use a long kinetic line and tell them not to touch anything other than a brake if they run the risk of running into me once they are moving.

paddockspares have an 8m 20ton kinetic that I have used in some pretty insane situations and it has never let me down