They are very popular here. I have used them but actually bought myself some Bushranger X-Trax which are roll up rubber tracks. They have the advantage of being easier to store and you can also "build bridges" over rocks with them.

I've heard some funny stories about Max Trax. A fellow used his on a beach in South Australia and successfully extracted himself but he couldn't find one of the Max Trax anywhere after the event. They combed the sand for 50 metres in every direction to no avail. The Max Trax also can be used as a makeshift shovel to clear the sand from the wheels. You have to be careful when using them as I have seen them fly out the back of the car like a rocket if the wheels really grab them. Also, I have seen them ripped to shreds where all the nipple parts are lopped off. Cheers

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TurboDan wrote:

From a "parked" position, what would be the best way to get started again?

Reverse a short distance along your original tracks where the sand is already compacted - until you can see the end of your tracks from across the wheel. Go forward from here. By the time you get to the "ledge" and fresh sand, you'll be up to speed.

Don't know about taking "little pieces of wood", but always take a bucket - collapsible camping type, if you do not have space. Mind you, if you're fishing, you'll probably have one anyway.

If you're stuck in DRY sand and you're desperate enough, collect buckets of water from the sea - should be quite a short trip by now - and fill the car tracks.

Ever noticed how you tend not to sink into the sand when it is wet?

Well, it's been a long time since I started this thread with my tale of woe. But two weeks ago I went out on the sand for a second time having followed all of the tips I've received. The LR2 performed flawlessly. It was a pleasure and lots of fun!

A couple photos are below. Unfortunately, three days after these photos were taken Hurricane Sandy struck. There is now no way to access these beaches, as a 50-foot cliff has been etched by the ocean, cutting off any possibility of reaching the beach by foot or vehicle. The US federal government has been working to restore the access, but it may take a couple of months, and it will not be as a nice as it was before.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

I think white cars look great!! (now waiting for abuse about white cars!! )

It looks great on the sand!

You call that soft sand!!

This is soft sand....

Click image to enlarge

Hey Turbo,

Nice picks, to reference a question of yours from a while ago "assume when using the command shift, to shift at low rpm" it's actually the opposite. I'm sure by now you have figured out success in sand relies on momentum. You'll notice in sand mode the auto holds gears longer to keep momentum. I use command shift so that I can down change early and hold gears longer proactively rather than reactivity to keep momentum.

The FL2 is great in the sand, I bogged mine to the cills on purpose and then proceeded to get it out without to much of a problem. It took time and a little bit of kicking sand away from the wheels but it got itself out without needing recovery. Tip if your really Bogged use mud and ruts mode, it doesn't allow as much wheel spin, which only digs you deeper when already bogged.

mikehzz wrote:

Another tip, on sand try not to use your brakes. Let yourself roll to a stop then you don't have a build up of sand in front of the wheel. Stopping is never an issue on soft sand, you stop quickly enough without the brakes. My son's girlfriend bogged our FL2 very quickly when she got spooked by another car and slammed the brakes on. She created a nice little ramp down into a hole that we couldn't reverse out of nor drive forward from.

You are correct. I've heard of a number of cases of people not actually being able to find one of their Max Trax after the recovery. They can shoot off and get buried very easily.

I was reading through some of the older posts and came across this one and thought I might add my 2 bobs worth .Depending a little on how the fl2 is bogged in sand GOE LR training suggest that the sand ramps be used diagionaly opposite and let the trs system do its job ,also try putting the trs into mud and ruts and reverse out .When in sand the dsc should always be turned off because when driving in soft dry sand a little bit of momentum is needed and if the dsc thinks the vechicle is unstable it starts applying the brakes to stabilise the situation and as Mike said brakes = bog
Doug