Long story short... I blew a fuse that supplies power to the fuses near to the glove box. Engine light, HDC fault, engine fault, you name it I had the warning! After looking through various threads on here, I realised my battery may be on the way out as well.

Turns out it was, so I bought a new battery today at a local battery store which has a rating of 730 CCA.
(They don't show the Ah in Oz for some reason.)

I think the original battery was 700 CCA and 80Ah - Is that correct?

Anyway all the warnings have now gone and ALL fuses have been checked and are now all okay, but the car won't start.
Just the engine management light and red battery lights come on now. It doesn't even attempt to start up

If I get my money back from my new battery and get a "proper specced" LR one on Monday, do you think this will solve my starting issues or do you think I've blown/damaged something else in the car?

BTW: It's an i6 (petrol model)

Cheers for any help/suggestions

Correct with the ratings.
But a small variation on the rating of the battery, as long as the battery is charged, has nothing to do with the fact that the car doesn't even trying to start.
Better tell us how you managed to blew that fuse. Maybe it's related with that...
See that there are some high amperage fuses, on the Battery Junction Box, that are covered with some plastic cap. Did you check them too?
And see that there is a big starter fuse on the positive terminal of the battery. Did you check it?

Thanks for the information Alex.
I just got in from a party so I'll explain in more detail in the morning now.

I checked all the fuses except the one on the positive lead on the battery.
Had a quick look. I can see a cream rectangular box about 5cm away from the terminal connection. Is it that?
If so, I can't see a way into it to check the fuse.

Another thing I noticed is as soon as I attach the battery, the hazard warning lights come on. Is this normal?

Cheers again,
Alex

Also check in the Engine compartment fusebox F15 (40 amp), this fuse allows voltage through the remote starter relay contacts.

EYorkshire wrote:

Also check in the Engine compartment fusebox F15 (40 amp), this fuse allows voltage through the remote starter relay contacts.

alex_pescaru wrote:

Better tell us how you managed to blew that fuse. Maybe it's related with that...

As to what happened

I was hard wiring a GPS as per a few threads on this forum. I decided to put an inline switch in before a 12v socket so I can turn it off if I wanted to. The power came from a spare 10A fuse socket (F5 in passenger compartment) with a fly lead connected to it.

The switch has 3 prongs (EARTH, LOAD and SUPPLY) and I accidentally put the wires on the wrong connections

I had the following:
SUPPLY prong connected to the Live wire
LOAD prong connected to the Earth wire
EARTH prong connected to the Supply (12v socket) wire

I know... what an idiot!

When I turned the ignition on to test, the various faults such as HDC and Engine Fault came on, the engine turned over a few times but didn't start

Checked all fuses and F41 20A (Passenger compartment fuse box) was blown - now replaced. Not able to check Relay Switches.
I bought a new battery and the warnings have all gone (turns out battery was on its way out) and now all I get is the Engine Management light and a Red Battery symbol showing.

If I know how to get into the 150A Starter Fuse by the Positive lead by the battery then I can check that first before joining the RAC and hopefully get a tow truck to my LR specialist.


Incidentally - The car is in the garage facing forward ie: Need to reverse out. If it needs to be put on a tow truck, how would I be able to engage Neutral if the car isn't starting up?

Cheers
Alex

Then the battery warning light won't extinguish until the engine is running so this is normal.
The engine ECU light being ON, then some errors are logged and must be interogated and erased. It is possible that one of those errors prevents starting the engine.

Normally you haven't done so much... Just shortcircuit one of the ignition 12V supply. Could happen in various situation.
Probably you took 12V before the F5 fuse and not after. That's why F5 didn't blew up and F41 (from the battery compartment I belive, not passenger) did, because the F41 supplies F5.
The engine and gearbox ECUs are powered from the same relay and power rail as F41, through F42.
Check F42 (15 amp) fuse too.
Check to see if you didn't damage the ignition relay by checking if power appears and dissapears at F41 and F42 when you switch ignition on and off.
You could also apply the crash reset procedure before trying to start the engine:
• Turn off the ignition.
• Wait with the ignition off for 1minute.
• Turn the ignition ON but do not attempt to start the engine.
• Wait for 1 minute.
• Crank the engine, after a long crank the engine should fire and run as normal.

As for that starter fuse (which I don't think that is blown because it's 150 amp), just disconnect the 12V terminal and then check for the fuse continuity.

I forgot:
There is an emergency release lever for you to be able to take it out of Park position.
Just lift (carefully) the selector leather trim and, in front of the selector lever assembly, you'll find a release lever, colored in yellow for identification.

Many thanks for your speedy reply Alex

The Crash Reset procedure didn't work.
I went to start it up and it's as if it's going through the procedure of starting but it's not cranking the engine.
Would you think the Starter Motor Relay has gone faulty?

The hazard warning lights didn't come on this time when I put the battery back (after 24 hrs with it off the car) which gave me a bit of hope!

alex_pescaru wrote:

Check to see if you didn't damage the ignition relay by checking if power appears and dissapears at F41 and F42 when you switch ignition on and off.

AiiEEX wrote:

Would you think the Starter Motor Relay has gone faulty?

AiiEEX wrote:

As the Crash reset didn't work, what equipment would I need to test if power appears and dissapears at F41 and F42 when you switch ignition on and off?

AiiEEX wrote:

EDIT: A quick thought. Could it be that the engine immobiliser is still active so not firing up the engine? Again, I wouldn't know how to turn it off.

I've had a mate with a Voltmeter over

I have 12v power from Fuse F41 both sides, but Fuse F42 shows 12v one side but 0 volts the other side (the left of the pin as you face the fuse box from passenger side).
This fuse is fine and we even swapped it for a spare fuse just in case.

Very strange. I would have thought both sides with the fuse in would make a circuit.

We also believe the Starter Relay is okay but would need clarification from an auto electrician first.


EDIT: I've booked a tow truck to take it to my mechanic on Wednesday. I'll let you know the result.

Many thanks Alex for your help on this. I really appreciate it.

UPDATE:

It turns out (probably by doing a reset with the key fob) that the ECU software changed to thinking the car was a diesel - The cheek of it!

Software re-loaded and it's now all good