Ford first fitted DMF to 2001 Mondeo TD 115 and Transit from 1st front wheel drive models, lots of problems with DMF.
A friend who was service manager with Volvo said they also had to replace many faulty units at fairly low mileage.

SD4 MPG, never below 30mpg, a good mixed run to north Scotland and back 500-600 miles with 50+ forrest miles usually 42mpg. Driving at legal limits plus a "wee bit" more. All FL2's (3) Gone
2011 Mercedes C180 CGI Gone
FL2 GS Auto SD with heated leather, factory tints, alloy spare and a few other bits.

Not wanting to tempt providence, but mine is on 81k on original clutch & dmf.  10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Eek ... I too have a 2010 TD4e now at just over 20K mls. LR went to considerable lengths to beef the whole caboodle up for stop-start, so not enchanted to hear of this at 20K!

Btw, from personal experience I know the Ford Focus RS can take off like stink from a standing start in the dry with nary a squeak from the tyres. Of course, should you choose to rev the engine & let the clutch out instantly, that might be another matter, something I gave up in my teens when Mum had to replace her '62 mini tyres after 4k mls!

Um ... easy to "confuse/mix" issues over gearbox/drive train problems with High torque diesel engines with DMF/clutch issues. The real problems over high torque are that the engine produces immense pressure on gear/drive trains at low speeds under low revs in higher gears compared to petrol engines which require proportionally higher revs for greater power output & so usually get best performance from lower gears at the same road speed. I suppose an extreme example of that would be the Honda vvti petrol engine in the Civic type R where top performance comes in over 5K rpm & you just have to be in a comparatively low gear to get this little beauty to really shift!

Have no experience of off roading, but can see why best advice seems to be to go for the auto version for this. rather than burn clutches & hammer what seem to be inherently weak DMFs

Going back to Td5 engine & DMF, we ran a Discovery 11 commercial for three and a bit years from 70k miles with first user. It was still on original clutch DMF & michelin tyres when we got it at 2.5yrs old.
We fitted a tow bar and used it as a tow car for work usually dragging up to the legal limit most days. We put a further 60k miles approx on it mostly with me driving and had no clutch or flywheel troubles at all.
One of our other users could kill a clutch in one trip with there driving style and trailer shunting ability! Having had to change a clutch or two on other vans at the time!
The discovery had a small autologic tweek to the ecu to help driveability and the tyres were up sized to BFG AT (76k on its michelins) to help with access to some sites, but this did not effect the drive train.
From the loan Freelanders I have had much prefer the Td4 Auto to be really honest. Also have got lazy and generally prefer autos anyway now!

had my TD5 Disco2 for 5 years and no clutch problem.

in my opinion it has a lot to do with driving technique and habits.

Iain

Last edited by iain cooper on 9th Jan 2012 10:40 am. Edited 1 time in total

The main problem with defenders ad discos killing clutches was the release bearing on to the transfer box going and giving up. It has nothing to do with driving style. The tdci defender I had was restricted to 82 mph, so no issue there. It's just a matter of luck

the only thing that did happen on the 200/300 series disco was the pivot pin popped through the clutch fork at approx 80k onwards the mod on the new fork was a welded plate accross the back  rainy-city
xs

Lots of talk about other clutches in other makes cars ETC.

But are we talking about freelander 2 clutches !!! and how long there should last. !!!

There may be a few forum members who don't understand what a DMF is or how a clutch works,
(not tell people how to suck eggs) but this may help the few who don't understand

How a clutch works,
&feature=related

How the DMF (Double mass flywheel)
&feature=related

hoped this may help a few more people to understand,
So how long should the freelander 2 clutch last if you drive normally, ??? ( The same a s a set of front brake) pads!!! )

Some interesting comments. I was a mechanical engineer and designed geatboxes for diesel engine trains.

Trust me, this is not user error. I have over 200,000 miles experience of driving D1s and D3s. My FL2 has not been off roaded.

So how long should a clutch last? A lot longer than 20k.

There has also been a software revision. The eco change up light used to come on around 1750 rpm. It is now different in each gear. 1st is 2k, 2nd and 3rd is 3k and 4/5th now 2.7k. Land Rover seem to think it is labouring causing the problem.

Beware there is a design fault. A Land Rover owner since 1988

From a 1974 series III to a 12MY XS FL2 with help of a 1995 D1, 1996 D1, 2005 D3, 2007 D3 and a 2009 FL2.

no body can say how long a clutch should last for as we all have differant driving habbits(some people ride the clutch some people slip the clutch when changing gear what the vehicles do ie do they tow a lot but a clutch should last a lot longer than 20k ldv had a problem like this on the convoy there was a kit avalable to convert the clutch from duel/mass back to normal are these avalable on the open market yet  rainy-city
xs

Going back to a 'normal' clutch would be fine for vans and trucks, but car drivers would not tolerate it. Would you accept the vibration in the bodywork, the gearstick, rattles from the trim etc that a diesel engine would give without a DMF, no of course not. We expect a smooth ,quiet, tireless ride and that is exactly what the DMF was designed for.
Unfortunately the design is flawed and can prematurely knacker the clutch.

I had a very early golf diesel. mk1, the cassettes used to rattle out of the player while idling, sometimes the player itself actually rattle out of the slot in the dash.

Diesel engine technology has advanced incredibly since then, but it still needs a little extra to smooth out the vibrations At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

In answer to JP, The Doctor had asked about the other earlier LR products and I had offered my experience hence the reason for it not being FL2 related. Anyway auto i6 is best!!!!!!!!!!!

chugga90 wrote:

In answer to JP, The Doctor had asked about the other earlier LR products and I had offered my experience hence the reason for it not being FL2 related. Anyway auto i6 is best!!!!!!!!!!!

The Doctor wrote:

.....Purely out of curiosity.....

'Curiosity' my ar&e what do you expect chugga90 to say 38.4 - Bet it sound sooooo sweat though, better than our rattle boxes