Hi,just wondering if anyone has advice on towbar fitment. Is aftermarket self-fitting straight forward enough,including wiring, or is it best taken back to main dealer for fitment. Thanks.

If you are fitting the LR kit, then it's straightforward bolt on job. Bumper cut was needed on my kit.

After fitting the ECU needs reprogrammed by LR to let it know there is a kit fitted, otherwise the new electrics don't work.

had after market tow bar fitted to 2011my no re programming needed all electrics work ok the only two things that the program does as far as i know is when you select reverse it cuts out the rev sensors but you can do that with the button on the dash,the other thing is that the trailer light on the dash does not light up but if you have a buzzer that sounds when you operate the indicators you are legal hope this helps (manchester tow bars fitted mine)  rainy-city
xs

I fitted a Witter (from P F Jones) detachable myself. It was very easy having come with very clear instructions (available to view in advance on their website) and is neat high quality and good value. I got hold of a set of 2nd hand LR electrics(very expensive new) which were also easy to fit and just needed activating by the dealer which they did free of charge when I went in for auto transmission recall. - 2007(57) XS Auto, Rimini Red, Alpaca Leather.
- GCS Hawke - Sports, BRG, Vulcan 2.1 inj'. My toy - built it myself in 2001.

bigalf1961 wrote:

the only two things that the program does as far as i know is when you select reverse it cuts out the rev sensors but you can do that with the button on the dash,

He has a GS, odds on, no button on the dash

There are numerous informative threads on this, a search will bring in some good info.

Programming also disables the rear fogs on the towcar

Thanks for the advice so far. I did wonder if all that the dealer work needed on the electrics was to overcome the reverse sensors,foglights etc. So I could buy any self fit bar(prefer the flange type) and a set of plug-in electricals and do it myself.

Fit whatever bar takes your fancy, remembering some need a bumper cut and some don't. Dedicated electrics will allow the software change, bypass relay won't. Non dedicated electrics will allow the dealer to blame any electrical problem on the towbar installation.

If you buy the Brink or LR one (Identical) the bumper cut is not a big job, it is roughly a 2"square cut out of the bottom centre of the rear valance and they supply a pattern for you to cut around if you need it.

I do recall someone fitting a Witter detachable and for that you do not need to cut the bumper nor do you need to remove the bumper to fit it, you will need to check but you remove the reflectors from your bumper, drill an access hole behind where the reflecters were to gain access with a socket and extention, when done just replace the reflectors and it covers the hole. But check first

My Witter detachable (flange model) did not require a bumper cut or removal . They suggest drilling holes in bumper behind the reflectors - I managed to do it from underneath. It's a bit tight but not that that bad. All very neat when done and with it being detachable does not impede the off road rear ascending angle when not attached.  - 2007(57) XS Auto, Rimini Red, Alpaca Leather.
- GCS Hawke - Sports, BRG, Vulcan 2.1 inj'. My toy - built it myself in 2001.

freedieselauto wrote:

I fitted a Witter (from P F Jones) detachable myself. It was very easy having come with very clear instructions (available to view in advance on their website) and is neat high quality and good value. I got hold of a set of 2nd hand LR electrics(very expensive new) which were also easy to fit and just needed activating by the dealer which they did free of charge when I went in for auto transmission recall.

Second this and no bumper cut needed

freedieselauto wrote:

My Witter detachable (flange model) did not require a bumper cut or removal . They suggest drilling holes in bumper behind the reflectors - I managed to do it from underneath. It's a bit tight but not that that bad. All very neat when done and with it being detachable does not impede the off road rear ascending angle when not attached.

With the electrics you do get what you pay for.

The LR sockets are water proof rather than water resistant. The cable enters the back of the socket and is potted (filled with a resin) to exclude water. The front lift up lid has an O-ring seal to stop water ingress, stops the socket filling with mud off-road, and the pins don't seem to corrode as they are not left damp from salted roads.

The bad news - they cannot be replaced like for like. When some rams you and damages a socket you need to buy a new loom assembly, or fit the cheap inferior stuff from Halfords. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Agreed Andy - but what you can also do is cut off the twin sockets and feed both cables into a 13 pin Euro socket where the connections are far superior

mmm ...... did you know on the revised MOT 13pin sockets have to be tested and working correctly.
7 pin sockets just have to be secure.
Bit of a pain if all you use the tow bar for is a bike rack.

Must admit I havent seen a 13 pin socket, the 7 pin ones on our 13 year old van work fine, so am unlikely to change just for changings sake. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner